of rubber insulators and their thicknesses for tub

[squidtone]

Hello folks,
I have a question about what kind of insulators were used between the tub and frame. I'm ready to start welding up floor pans and risers. I am using 1x 1.5 inch rectangular tubing instead of hat channels, and they are very slightly thicker than the original hat channels, but I still want to use rubber insulators between the tubing(tub) and the frame. I believe I won't go wrong using some kind of 1/4 inch thick rubber on all the body mounts, but was there rubber between the forward-most channel under the firewall gusset? I've attached a picture of this spot as seen through the master cylinder access hole (mine rusted oversized haha). Note the channel (tubing) on top of the frame to the left of the master cylinder. Is there supposed to be rubber there between that channel and frame?



Also, was there rubber between the bracket that hung down from that gusset and bolts to the side of the frame?
Thanks for any info....

[specialty]

Dave, I just went through this myself and on mine their are 4 mounts on the rear, 6 mounting point on the sides, and the 2 mounting points under those front gussets. I actually went through McMaster (find them online)and got a piece of Round rubber 2" diameter with a 3/8 hole already in it and used my band saw to cut them to my desired thickness. They also sell the kits on Ebay and most of the parts places sell the kits. Being on a budget on this project I could not see the $100 they wanted for it though when I could make my own for a 1/4 of that cost. I cut my rubber 3/4 " thick which is to thick I think originally but I needed the extra clearance for the parking brake drum as mine just barely rubbed it after all the floor pans were welded in. I also had to replace part of the tunnel about half way back so that is where I lost the exact clearance I needed for that. I used the same tubing that you are using and all turned out good. Good luck!
Ron

[squidtone]

Thanks for the ideas.
And yes, I was amazed at how little clearance there is between the transfercase, transmission and the floor pans! Sheesh! No room for error!
I have determined that even my trans tunnel is so bad I might just replace (fabricate) it all, so I might err on the side of more clearance anyway.
thanks again.
dave

[aboyandhisdog]

Dave,  I used these, which I believe is what you are talking about.  I used them in the full 5/8 in. thickness and they are a perfect fit for my 3A.  The pedals and nice and centered. 

Also, I do not have the two forwardmost mounts that you asked about, nor is there holes for them in the tub or the frame.  I just have the four along the rear bumper and three on each side of the tub.  That's it.  Not sure what is "correct", but I've not had any problems at all with just the 10 mounts.

[1955CJ-5]

Thanks for the ideas.
And yes, I was amazed at how little clearance there is between the transfercase, transmission and the floor pans! Sheesh! No room for error!
I have determined that even my trans tunnel is so bad I might just replace (fabricate) it all, so I might err on the side of more clearance anyway.
thanks again.
dave

You may already know this but the M-38 and later CJ's had a removable floor panel...

http://walcks4wd.com/bolt-in-transmission-floor-cover-plate-assembly-1950-1971-m38-m38a1-cj5-cj6.html

Someone here installed one on a CJ-3a...I don't remember who..

Just an idea/option though...makes access to the transmission with the tub on a breeze..

[specialty]

Those rubber insulators shown look about like what I used. Also I saw someone selling the square ones on Ebay that I think were the correct ones. I like the idea of the bolt in center section. It would make maintenance and other chores much easier.

[athawk11]

You can slice up an old bias ply tire and use the side wall portion as the spacer/body mount.  It's a little extra work, but if you have the tire, your are now 'recycling' it.

Original thickness ranged from 1/8" - 3/16" - 1/4".  My understanding is the thickness grew larger as you moved toward the front of the tub.

I'm around 1/4" all the way around.

[specialty]

You can slice up an old bias ply tire and use the side wall portion as the spacer/body mount.� It's a little extra work, but if you have the tire, your are now 'recycling' it.

Original thickness ranged from 1/8" - 3/16" - 1/4".� My understanding is the thickness grew larger as you moved toward the front of the tub.

I'm around 1/4" all the way around.

Did the front suppurt gussets also have them? I think mine had some old remnants of rubber there when I pulled the old tub.

[athawk11]

I have never seen an intact set at the front under the cowl gussets, but this leads me to believe they were present.  I did install a set in this location...

Photo courtesy of Sean Collins...

[specialty]

Tim,
I also put them under mine. I did still have some pieces of something there under my old tub when I removed it.

[squidtone]

It's pretty sad the ol' Jeep was so bad I can't even tell what (if anything) was between the gusset/hat channel and frame. But I notice the frame has no wear marks there, so I suspect something forgiving was lining that spot.

And '55, good idea about the large removable tunnel parts. I will think this through....a removable tunnel might be easier to fab and neater looking too (rather than patchwork welding)

[64CJ5]

I am wondering about using hockey pucks as spacers.  I need a little body lift on my '52 M38.  The pucks are 1" thick and I think any sized hole could be drilled. 

[aboyandhisdog]

I am wondering about using hockey pucks as spacers.� 

Yea, but hockey pucks aren't soft at all.  You wouldn't get any squish from them.   If you can go to 1 1/4 inch, double up those CJ5 mounts.

[specialty]

I am wondering about using hockey pucks as spacers.� I need a little body lift on my '52 M38.� The pucks are 1" thick and I think any sized hole could be drilled.�

I went to McMaster Carr and orded about a foot of I think 1-1/2 rubber and sawed it to the length I wanted with a bandsaw. They have different durometers of rubber available for hardness so you can get something softer. Then just drill the holes. I think they also just sell round rubber already drilled with different thicknesses also. I had to raise my body a tad also because when I redid the tunnel and set the body on my parking brake drum just rubbed the floor pan. Worked out fine.
Ronnie

[athawk11]

I am wondering about using hockey pucks as spacers.� I need a little body lift on my '52 M38.� The pucks are 1" thick and I think any sized hole could be drilled.�

Tom,
I think garage gnome here used hockey pucks and old valve springs to make his body mounts.  You should be able to find his info here somewhere.

You might need to do some minor adjustments to the tub...where stuff penetrates the firewall.  Brake and clutch pedals, shift levers, etc...  Also, the grill and fenders might need to be raised.  If the radiator is bottom mount, then the engine should be able to stay down with the rest of the chassis.


Tim