Running Hot?

[BMIC]

Two part question:
I have been running a 180 degree thermostat but I am wondering if I should run a 160 degree. I have never reinstalled the Harrison Heater because I rarely run in the winter and do not plan for a top anyway. Mostly summer driving and the temp gauge seems to run at about 200-205 degrees. I'm thinking that is on the edge of where I want the temp to be and logic dictates it should run a bit cooler with a 160. All other factors are good, new radiator, new water pump, completely rebuilt engine that was sleeved and brought back to original spec.... any thoughts on that?
Part 2:
Anybody have the diagram on reinstalling the new thermostat and cone correctly, I'm 99% sure I have it right, it's that damn 1%.

[athawk11]

Are you using a 4lb or 7lb radiator cap?
Here is a decent conversation about the thermostats�

http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/thermostats_topic4714.html

For me, I start to get nervous when the temperature climbs above 200�.  This only happened when the water pump and the seal in my old radiator cap failed.
 
 I use a 160� thermostat.  The engine will warm up to no more than 180� during the hottest months.  When driving during winter, it�s hard to get it warm enough to get any heat out of the Donaldson.

Tim 

[Tumbleweed]

Yep and be sure to drill that small hole on the thermostat to eliminate radiator overflow issues!

I also run 160 degree thermostat. When I ran my 180 degree the engine would heat up to about 200 before the thermostat opened up - that worried me so going to 160 and drilling the hole in the thermostat has solved all of my temperature issues so now I can focus on all my other issues!

[Ryan_M]

Echoing what others have said. Drop to a 160* thermostat and make sure you drill a hole in it.

Here's a Walck's video on how everything fits together
[media]https://youtu.be/3oO695Xsk7A?t=1m35s[/media]

[specialty]

If your only driving in the warm months is a thermostat even needed?

[scoutpilot]

[size=12]Absolutely.� The thermostat is not just an �ON-Off� switch. The thermostat regulates the temperature of the operating motor. As the coolant heats and cools, it is constantly moving based on the temperature of the coolant. Take it out and it will almost certainly run hot.
Also. The hole in the skirt of the thermostat should be 1/8 inch. That tiny bypass will allow for elimination of air pockets that are hotter than the coolant in the water jacket. You may also want to check your timing. Too far advanced will make the motor run hot. Too lean a fuel mixture setting will also cause the same problem.[/size][/b]

[specialty]

Learn something everyday? I know back in the day many ran without one. I am not sure about my timing. I don't have the inspection hole on the bellhousing and I can't find a mark on the pulley. I have it set where it seems to run the best.

[scoutpilot]

Try this; http://oldjeepcarbs.freeforums.net/thread/29/time-motor-timing-light

[BMIC]

As usual I received not only good advice to my questions but answers to questions I did not know I had. I will defiantly be changing out my 180 degree thermostat for a 160 and drilling the flange with a 1/8 inch hole.
Hawk .. I did not even consider the radiator cap, I am running with a 4lb cap (new a year ago), what would be the reason to switch to a 7lb cap?
Scout .. I am getting a premature carbon fouling of the plugs, obviously too rich. The timing was field set  right after installing the rebuilt engine. Since the engine fired up with the first turn of the key and has run very smooth since I have been reluctant to �fix what does not seem broke�. I think I will change out the thermostat and see if that produces the desired results, if not timing and carb adjustment are next. 
Of course if any of you are in Maine this summer and are willing to make a house call the lobster dinner would be on me, I might even be able to arrange a Willy's Picking tour of Maine with Ryan.

[athawk11]

BMIC,
Not overly relevant to your �Running Warm� concerns.  The cap does not control how hot the engine runs.  However, it does allow the engine to run at a certain temperature before a radiator overflow.
   
  The L-134 engine is designed to work with a 4lb cap.  A 7lb cap fits our radiators, but is designed to work with the F-134. Some folks switch to the 7lb cap to control an overflow.  Like you�re doing, it�s probably better to control the heat �vs- hide the heat behind a 7lb cap.

I think Ryan has become a Lieutenant Colonel in the ScoutPilot school of Carter-WOs.  Drag him over for some Brats and Beers!

Hawk   

[Ryan_M]

Hmmm..you guys might be onto something. "Guided Jeep Picking Tours". I could even turn my property into a Jeep ranch. I'll plant derelict Jeeps in strategic locations and you guys can come "discover" them, for a fee of course.   

Canned Willys Hunts....

[BMIC]

Ryan use to drop in on his way to heavy metal concerts in Portland, I'm not sure if it was the music or the Jeep Disease but he was last seen hauling a red trailer behind a Bombardier (that he told his wife he sold) heading down a logging road near the Canadian border. The guy on the 3A page is a recording...

[Ryan_M]

Ryan use to drop in on his way to heavy metal concerts in Portland, I'm not sure if it was the music or the Jeep Disease but he was last seen hauling a red trailer behind a Bombardier (that he told his wife he sold) heading down a logging road near the Canadian border. The guy on the 3A page is a recording...

I should have kept the Bombi. I would not have to wait until spring to retrieve snowbound Jeeps if I had that thing back.

And thanks for letting me completely destroy your technical thread...

[BMIC]

Replaced the 180 degree thermostat with the 160 degree and that did the trick. After heating up to 175/180 it would drop back down to 160.... Nice, it even sounds happier.
I must admit that I had the initial thermostat installed wrong. I simply installed the t-stat on the engine block, placed the cone upside down with the tapered end on top of the t-stat. Not much in the repair manual on this and I was unable to open Ryans video above. I finally got the Walcks video off their web page.
Anyway's, it is correctly installed now including the 1/8" hole.