Rust inhibitors

[Linda]

Hi, removing my tub soon to clean and paint my frame. What is the preferred rust inhibitor used by you guys. I have been reading about por 15, what is your opinion. Thanks AL

[macrisel]

I used Por 15 and have been very pleased with it.  The downside to POR 15 is it has to be topcoated it exposed to sunlight as it is not UV resistant.  This was not a big issue to me as it only took about another 30 minutes to paint over the POR 15 when it was still tacky.  The POR 15 has left a very nice, durable finish that has held up great.  I live down three miles of gravel road and have very, very few rock chips in my frame.......now the paint in the fender wells are another story...

Others have used another brand (Mastercoat maybe?) and liked it also.  When I did my frame I was unaware of the other brand or I might have tried it.  It does NOT have to be topcoated to be UV resistant.

One last thing on the POR 15.  Coverage was awesome.  I bought two quarts thinking I would need it to finish my frame and only used about 3/4 of one quart.  The rest I used on my axles, front bumper, tow bar, a seperate tractor frame, one 16 foot trailer frame and I still have around 1/4 quart left.  I keep it in the shop fridge with a piece of saran wrap between the lid and the can to help keep out air and seal it up.

Good luck!

[OkieFarmJeep]

I feel like the exception because more people opt for POR or other specific made products BUT I cleaned my frame, axles etc. and then painted it with a high quality OIL BASE PAINT.  It was advertised as made for pump jacks and farm equipment.  Thick as snot but laid down nice with a small foam roller.  Nine years later it still looks great and no rust.  Way less expensive and easy to touch up if I need to but so far no need.   Attached pic you can see the overall appearance 9 years later.  One reason I did it that way is at the time I did not have access to a paint booth and did not want to spray in my garage.  I would not hesitate to do it again- even though I now have access to a paint booth so that says something.

[athawk11]

Mark mentioned Mastercoat.  They changed their product name a few years back to Masterseries.  They started to offer additional products, thus the name change.  I have used their Masterseries Silver and the Satin Chassis Black.

The Silver is exceptional at stopping and sealing rust.  And it's very easy to work with. 2 projects so far.

The Chassis Black is thick going on and rock hard like POR, but has no UV issues like POR.  It's a two part system.   Coat the frame...Done!  I also like it because they offer it in a Satin finish. 

You can apply both with a brush or foam roller.   The Black smooths out very nice.  No brush or roller marks.  You can spray the Silver too, but you don't want it in your lungs, so cover up.

http://shop.masterseriesct.com/

[SteveW]

I liked the Eastwood Chassis Black primarily because of the sunlight issue

[macrisel]

I also forgot to mention that I applied the POR 15 to my frame with very cheap Harbor Freight brushes (a box of 20 was around $7).  The POR 15 is amazingly self leveling and I have no brush marks at all.  I was very spetical at first, but my car club buddies assured me this was the fastest, easiest way to apply it.

I have to admit, I am very impressed with it so far.  It is a single stage paint, but you must topcoat it for UV protection so it is really a two part paint from that standpoint.  However, like Tim also said, POR 15 is also nasty stuff.  I would be VERY careful if you thinned it and sprayed it......but there is really no need to.  Don't make the same mistake I did and paint your frame in the heat of August in Missouri wearing a sleeveless shirt and shorts.   I walked around for two weeks with black spots over my arms and legs before they finally wore off........and there are STILL spots on my garage floor five years later!