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Author Topic: Setting the Point Gap  (Read 5664 times)

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Offline BMIC

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Setting the Point Gap
« on: June 01, 2015, 10:37:26 AM »
I am 2 months into the 6 month curse Ryan put on me when he said "When you thing your project is done, you have 6 months of chasing gremlins left". While my carburator is off being rebuilt I decided to do a tune up...points, plugs, cap, coil, and wires. All is going smoothly until I try to set the point gap to .020. With the fiber guide sitting on the high lobe I cannot get the gap to .020. With the eccentric screw turned all the way closed the gap is still about .030. 
What am I missing here? All new parts from KA....
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Offline athawk11

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Re: Setting the Point Gap
« Reply #1 on: June 01, 2015, 11:19:12 AM »
BMIC,
Based on what you wrote, I would say you may have the wrong point set, or it's not installed in the correct position.

Can you post a photo?

Tim
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Offline scoutpilot

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Re: Setting the Point Gap
« Reply #2 on: June 01, 2015, 11:47:18 AM »
X2
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Offline Ryan_M

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Re: Setting the Point Gap
« Reply #3 on: June 01, 2015, 12:02:37 PM »
If it's the wrong point set I went though that too. Once I ID'd the right set of points I saved the box so I could just bring it back to CarQuest every time to ensure I got the right ones. Trying to figure it out all over again each time was too much of a hassle. I think NAPA has them too.

2 months down, 4 to go...if you're lucky  ;D
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Offline BMIC

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Re: Setting the Point Gap
« Reply #4 on: June 01, 2015, 12:59:39 PM »
Thanks guys... I do have the packing box as well as invoice. It is such a simple procedure, I must have installed/uninstalled 10 times last night thinking I missed something. Another hint may be that the condenser wire was about 2" too long.
There is a NAPA on my way home tonight, I'll try them...

Bruce
We are masters of the unsaid words, but slaves of those we let slip out... WC

Offline stony

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Re: Setting the Point Gap
« Reply #5 on: June 02, 2015, 12:35:22 AM »
Setting the points dwell rather than setting the gap should give you better results, and assure that your coil is getting a full charge.  A dwell meter is only about $30 and well worth it.  Once the dwell is correct, then set your timing and you should be good to go.
Terry
1949 CJ3A 11159 body 11225 engine 11140
On preservation vs. restoration:Roscoe Lee Brown "the Cowboys" when he met the whores on the trail:"Well, I have the inclination, but not the time”.

Offline Ryan_M

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Re: Setting the Point Gap
« Reply #6 on: June 02, 2015, 07:01:28 AM »
I absolutely agree on using a dwell meter, although, within the next couple weeks my guess is you will be able to get the gap set to surprising accuracy by eye alone (or, that's an embarrassing indication of just how long I had to monkey around the first time through  :D)

First off, you need to find the right set of points.
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Offline scoutpilot

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Re: Setting the Point Gap
« Reply #7 on: June 02, 2015, 12:03:34 PM »
[size=12]CS-725A[/size][/b]
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Offline BMIC

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Re: Setting the Point Gap
« Reply #8 on: June 02, 2015, 01:51:57 PM »
Stopped by NAPA and picked up a new set of points and condenser, planning on installing them tonight. As usual I like to read the 3A page over lunch and read scoutpilots brief but always accurate post "CS725A". Walked out to my car to verify that's what I had and you guessed it CS709. Quick trip back to NAPA and picked out the oldest counter guy available and got him to dig out the books not the computer and find the right points. The NAPA computer does specify a CS709 for a 1050 3a so you have to get them to go old school to the books.... or tell them you got the number from higher authority Scoutpilot.
We are masters of the unsaid words, but slaves of those we let slip out... WC