Wiring help needed

[Tucker]

I've got a weird combo of vehicles/parts, so please bear with me.
1. My rig has a Ford 260 V8 engine, a universal 12 circuit wiring harness, and a Signal Stat 900 turn signal device (the one with seven wires).
2.� I'm using the stock CJ3A headlight switch with the two settings/options, parking lights or all.
3.� I'm using a CJ5 dual filament parking light from Omix-Ada and Walck's Naco Standard CJ2A tail lights (the one with a red wire and a black wire out the back).

I'm trying to figure out how to have the parking lights go on with the headlight switch but still flash with the Signal Stat.� I figured I'd run power to the headlight switch, from that switch to the Signsl Stat, and then from the Signal Stat to the parking lights. BUT I can see how to feed power from the headlight switch to the Signal Stat.

I'm also not sure if the red and black wires to the Naco replicas are both hot forthe two different filaments (and so the ground is through the brake light case to the tub) or if red is hot and black is ground or ...?

Help!

Thanks,

Tucker

[Tucker]

p.s. - I've read the pages on the CJ3B covering turn signals, and I've got the diagram for wiring the Signal Stat. 

[1955CJ-5]

I believe the original CJ-3a headlight switches are designed so that either the headlights are on, or the parking lights are on, but not both the headlights and the front parking lights at the same time..

My CJ-5 uses the same headlight switch, and I installed a signal-stat using the diagram from the 3b page....with the headlights on, the front parking lights are off, but they still function as a turn signal..

And it's been a while but I'm pretty sure each wire to the tail lights goes to it's own filament in the bulbs, and they just use a chassis ground..I also used the repro lights from Walcks...

[garage gnome]

You can figure out how to wire a turn signal switch with a multimeter buy ringing out the wires.

There are two wires that ring together when the switch is in the middle. Those are for the brake lights. They loop through the switch. Then you have 2 left and 2 right signal wires. One set are for the back and the other set are for front. The back ones will ring through one of the brake light switch wires. Then there is a hot coming from the the prong flasher unit. In total, there are 7 wires. You could have an 8th for the indicator light.

One the flasher, you have a hot coming in, the hot going to the switch, and the third wire is for the indicator light.

If I get time this weekend, I'll make a video of how to figure out the switch. I have one for my 55 chevy that I need to figure out.

[garage gnome]

One wire on the tail light is brake, the other is running. The ground is through the studs on the housing.

If you want the front parking lights to come on with the headlights, move the wire to where the rear running lights are attached. They made the front parking lights turn off when the head lights come on to give the head lights more amps with the stock 6v system.

The headlight switch has 3 poles. The one with the two rivets is for the rear parking lights.

[athawk11]

Excellent help from the others.

How much of this is up and working?  I only ask because a written description of a full wire up can be daunting...and probably confusing, especially if we are missing some variables.

As the others mentioned, the original 2 position switch function, turns the park light off when you go to the "headlamp on" position.  If you want the park lights to stay on when you turn the headlamps on, follow G-Gnome's instructions. 

I don't have the Signal Stat 900.  I do have the cheap knock off 7 wire version.  You may know this, but you didn't mention it...the turn signal switch does not have an internal blinker function. You do need to add a blinker/flasher module to the equation.  Available at all auto parts stores.

It's been a while since I did this stuff, but I don't think you need take your power connection to the Signal Stat through the headlight switch.  I believe I got power to the turn signal switch by connecting it to the �Accessories� post on my ignition switch.

For power to the light switch you connect the rear post on the light switch directly to the �Battery� terminal on the ignition switch.

I'm doing this by memory...and this is a little shaky at times, but there are certainly other ways to accomplish your task.

[garage gnome]

Like Tim said, you will have to add an external 3 prong flasher. You can get power from the headlight switch, where the circuit breaker attaches so you have a protected circuit, or from the two places on the key As Tim said.

[Ryan_M]

I wired my M38's Signal Stat 900 tonight. I ran the power connect right to the battery terminal on the ammeter. That's how my knock-off turn signal is wired on my 3A. I like Tim's idea of wiring power to the ignition ACC terminal. That should prevent the directionals from working when the key is off, right? More than once I've parked somewhere only to look back and see a directional still blinking as I forgot to shut it off. 

[athawk11]

...wiring power to the ignition ACC terminal. That should prevent the directionals from working when the key is off, right? 

Yes sir. 

Speaking of turn signals...does anyone else drive 20 miles before they realize the turn signal has been on the whole time? . I know there are louder flasher modules available. Does anyone know of a super loud one?  You know...one that is louder than an L-134...in an open air Willys...moving at 45 MPH?

Tim

[Tucker]

You guys are the best.� I lurk a lot and post only rarely, but this site has really saved me.

I've got the engine bay wired up except the signals.� I've got the grounds laid out and routed so that everything ends up back on the engine block, which goes to negative on the battery.� With your feedback and advice, I expect to have it running and driving (legally ) this weekend.

[Tucker]

All wired up and done.

Turns out my harness has a two prong flasher, so the Signal Stat's indicator lights don't work, but I don't care.� (I may swap it out at a later date.)  But right now, I have functioning lights and signals, the gauges work, and the engine fires up.� I even have a working horn (it's a loud sucker from Omix-Ada for later CJ's).

For the first time since I bought it in August of '13, I have a street legal flattie!

Life is good.

Thanks again!

[RedWilly]

Keep in mind that the Signal Stat indicator will not work if it isn't getting a good ground through the steering column tube.