Accelerator linkage

[BMIC]

 :exclamationI am having problems with the accelerator linkage that mounts to the bracket attached to the rear of the engine block. Page 42 of the parts list clearly shows the flat bar on the bottom and attaching to the pedal link. I have about a inch of space between the engine and firewall. That is leaving me no space for the linkage to travel nor is it aligning with the foot pedal. After an hour pulling the cotter pin to reverse the link it was worse.
I will try to post a pic of what I have and trust that you will sport or think through the issue.
PS... When remounting the tub back on the frame all the mounting holes matched, the brake and clutch pedals line up well so I do think the tub is mounted correctly.�

[Ryan_M]

I'll have to take a closer look at my set-up when I get home but in this old pic I see my bracket is mounted 180 degrees from yours. Not sure if that's the issue or perhaps I later discovered I had it backwards.....which wouldn't be at all surprising.

[macrisel]

First off....wow....beautiful looking motor and frame!  Second, is your tub an aftermarket tub or did you do any repairs to the firewall/front floor pans?

On my aftermarket tub, the angle of the front floorboards is "flatter" than the original.  One of the issues this led to was my accelerator linkage not fitting correctly.  In order for it to function correctly, I had to bend my carb to linkage rod to create clearance and "scoot" my linkage forward away from the firewall while still allowing the carb to open all the way up.  A better solution (which I haven't done yet) would be to lengthen the rod on the back of the gas pedal.  This would get rid of the funky bend in my carb linkage.

My explanation is probably pretty bad and hard to picture so if you need photos, let me know.

Good luck!

[BMIC]

Ryan, !80 degrees different? My picture and yours look like the same setup. Not sure what you mean other than mine (and yours) may be upside down. The flat bar section of my linkage appears to be bent quite a bit more then yours but that can be the picture.
Mark, Thanks for your comments... The tub is the original but has been under the knife extensively. Floor boards were replaced but the cowl down past the wholes for the brake/clutch/accelerator pedals are all original. The firewall could have been pushed out when I welded in the new floor pan?
I guess process of elimination,
1.. is the bracket mounted to the block correctly? I think that's the only way it can be mounted.
2.. Is the linkage rod upside down?
3.. From my #2 picture id the linkage rod bent correctly?
4.. Is the space between the engine and firewall only about an inch?

Like most issues it worked fine 4 years ago when I dismantled it....

[1955CJ-5]

My arm is oriented like yours, round arm up to the carb, and flat arm down to the pedal, but my bracket is the other way round, with the angled part "up" and the flat edge "down'

You can just see it here.. I haven't found a better picture yet...

And yes, the engine is about 1 1/4" from the firewall...

[Ryan_M]

Ryan, !80 degrees different? My picture and yours look like the same setup. Not sure what you mean other than mine (and yours) may be upside down.

[/b]

I was referring to the bracket. Mine is the same as Randy's. If you flip the bracket into the correct position it should move the location of the arm considerably.


"Like most issues it worked fine 4 years ago when I dismantled it...."

Fix it 'til it's broke�

[scoutpilot]

[size=12]Hope this helps. This is the correct orientation of the bracket/lever assembly.[/size][/b]

[BMIC]

%$#&^%#@*&^..... Nice photo Scoutpilot, after I undo the wiring, speedometer, e-brake, and lift the tub... that photo will come in handy!
Just for my own sanity... I was thinking there are only two offset threaded holes in the block, are there three holes in the bracket?
Painful lesson but much appreciated... thanks everyone.

[Ryan_M]

Two holes in the block, two holes in the bracket. I can see it would be an easy mistake to install upside down though.

[aboyandhisdog]

Well this is interesting...as is often the case, I see how something should be done correctly, and then I go check mine to assure that it has been done incorrectly.� �� BMIC, my bracket is mounted the same as yours and the throttle works beautifully.� In fact, I suspect that if it was mounted as in Scoutpilot's photo, I may have clearance issues with the exhaust manifold stud and nut, as it would be considerable lower on the block.� Just my 2 cents...which is no doubt about what it's worth.

[scoutpilot]

[size=12]The stud on your motor must be very long indeed. Look closely at the upper arm and check the clearance between the arm and the rear stud. This is the factory standard installation. And yes, I have put one or two on upside down myself. Extremely easy error to commit.[/size][/b]

[macrisel]

%$#&^%#@*&^..... Nice photo Scoutpilot, after I undo the wiring, speedometer, e-brake, and lift the tub... that photo will come in handy!
Just for my own sanity... I was thinking there are only two offset threaded holes in the block, are there three holes in the bracket?
Painful lesson but much appreciated... thanks everyone.

Before you did all of that, you might try and remove your motor mounts and see if you can drop your motor down enough to get to that plate.  You will probably have to come from the bottom up the transmission tunnel with a looooong extension and a wobble socket.

Good luck!
Mark

[athawk11]

It's funny that when something like this comes up, we all scramble out to see if we installed it correctly.�  :-/

[1955CJ-5]

And we all learn something....

In looking at the posts and pictures of the throttle linkage, I realized my swivel arm was bent...and I wasn't getting full throttle...it's better now..

And I've been contemplating removing my transfer case to chase that noise I have but I wasn't sure where all� 5 bolts were....Tim's picture clearly shows all five so I ought to be able to separate it without removing the transmission...

[Ryan_M]

...so I ought to be able to separate it without removing the transmission...

You are probably aware but be sure you pull the trans cover and wire the mainshaft in place prior to removing the TC. Unless, of course, you love the sound of a couple dozen needle bearings hitting the bottom of the transmission housing. Ask me how I know this.....