Brake Adjustment Question

[Steve]

Do I need to bleed the brakes prior to adjusting the brake shoes? The reason I ask is that I have air in my brake lines (waiting on parts to fix the problem), but wanted to start adjusting brake shoes. I get the brakes adjusted, pump the brake pedal several times until it firms up, and then the brake shoes do not retract? Thoughts? Thanks.

Steve

[1955CJ-5]

All the wheels or just one? Could be a bad wheel cylinder or master cylinder....

Have you rebuilt the master cylinder? There could be some debris blocking the passages...and have you replaced the rubber flex lines?

Someone a while back had a similar issue...I think it turned out that his actuating rod from the brake pedal arm to the master cylinder was too tight and it wasn't allowing the piston to fully return...but a rebuild will take care of all that..

But yes, you can adjust the brakes. It's a process, but the hydraulics do not need to be working to make initial adjustments to the shoes..

[Steve]

Thanks. I have a new MC so that should not be the issue. I have also replaced the brake lines. I am beginning to think that the problem is the brake cylinder on the wheel, but being new to the game, I am pretty clueless.

[F Bill]

All the wheels or just one? Could be a bad wheel cylinder or master cylinder....

Have you rebuilt the master cylinder? There could be some debris blocking the passages...and have you replaced the rubber flex lines?

Someone a while back had a similar issue...I think it turned out that his actuating rod from the brake pedal arm to the master cylinder was too tight and it wasn't allowing the piston to fully return...but a rebuild will take care of all that..

But yes, you can adjust the brakes. It's a process, but the hydraulics do not need to be working to make initial adjustments to the shoes..

Do the brakes eventually loosen up over time as pressure bleeds off? Try cracking the brake line at the master, if it is holding pressure the master cylinder pushrod is too long and needs adjusting. I don't know why this always seems to be a problem with new masters and rebuilds but it seems to be a very common difficulty.

[Steve]

Thanks. The tub is off the jeep and I can pump the brakes backing the push rod out completely.

I think that the issue might be the cams, but not sure. If I tighten the bolts at the base of the brake shoes, the brakes do not retract. When loose, they do retract. 

Are the cams supposed to be thicker than the metal of the brake shoe thereby allowing the brake shoe to easily pivot?  It looks like my cams are flush with the metal of the brake shoe?

[F Bill]

Sounds like you might have narrowed down the issue....Are the brake shoes from an overseas source? Do you have your originals to compare thickness to? Are all parts there and in the correct place?

[Steve]

I don't know about the source of the brake shoes, they are what was on the Jeep. They appear to be pretty new. I am pretty sure things have been bolted up the correct way.

Steve

[Carls_jeep]

First, pull the cap off the master cylinder and gently push the brake pedal down. If brake fluid doesn't squirt out of the reservoir then the rod is too long and you will have to shorten it.

Next, pull the drums and then remove the return spring on the shoes and see if the shoes move freely. If not the the lower anchor pivot is to tight. The replacement shoes I bought were to thick and I had to thin them with a file.

After all the above has been done The brake shoes should go out and in with no trouble. However, if they still stay out then the pressure retention valve in the master cylinder is defective. In the master cylinder, at the very end of the bore in front of the piston there is a valve that holds pressure in the system so you don't have to pump the brakes each time you apply them. If the valve goes bad it will either hold to much pressure or none at all. Either way you have to replace the master cylinder or put a repair kit in it.