Front oil seal

[ZekeD]

When I pulled the old oil seal out of the timing covert here was rust under the metal housing of the seal.  I have cleaned the housing as well as I can, should I put rtv or perma tex on the outside of the seal as well?

And since we are talking seals..... Rear Main,, rope or rubber?   

Thanks
Zeke

[garage gnome]

I don't think I would put anything on the front oil seal. You don't want that stuff breaking off and getting stuck in an oil passage.

As far as the rear main, it is your choice. I've heard that the rubber rear mains have had issues with tearing apart. Not sure if that has been resolved or not. I used rubber on my rebuild, but that was a number of years ago. Maybe someone who has done a rebuild recently can chime in.

[F Bill]

I don't think I would put anything on the front oil seal. You don't want that stuff breaking off and getting stuck in an oil passage.

As far as the rear main, it is your choice. I've heard that the rubber rear mains have had issues with tearing apart. Not sure if that has been resolved or not. I used rubber on my rebuild, but that was a number of years ago. Maybe someone who has done a rebuild recently can chime in.

The specific problem with the rear main is the rubber seal has been sold in a form that is undersize for some cranks. What happens is the seal wipes away any lubrication and starts to heat up the crank where it rides. The heat expands it more, and eventually the seal gets wiped out or the crank locks up due to lack of lube and clearance. The seal has been sold in most quality USA made gasket sets for years and the manufacturer has ignored the problems, only saying some military motors are not designed to take the rubber seal. Most of the guys just find a rope seal and install it, properly installed they can be leak free and poorly installed they will drip a little bit. A small drip is preferable to a locked up engine, however.

If you do a Google search on flathead 134 jeep rear seal problems I'm sure you'll find more than enough reading to make you want to build a Chevy instead. Ask your supplier if they know about the seal problem, and if they do not.....don't buy your gasket set from them unless you KNOW it has a good seal.

[ZekeD]

I bought the front and rear from Walcks.....  Didnt think anything about it untilI was reading the old posts here about the failures.   Makes me nervous.

Thanks guys!

[1955CJ-5]

I went round and round about this. I called one of the military suppliers and he won't even sell the rubber seals.

The Felpro gasket set came with a rope seal.

The machinist ordered a rubber seal, but when the box came it had a rope seal in it!

I opted for the possibility of a small drip to the possibility of a lock-up. so a rope seal was used...and yes I get a small drop or two after shutdown...

[jamesr]

I was one that had to have the engine redone again, after 5 miles, because of an undersized neoprene seal and  oversized crank journal (within willys spec's).  I replaced with rope, and would NEVER use neoprene rear seal again.  Mine was a Fel-Pro set, who you buy the set from is of no matter.
JamesR

[Carls_jeep]

Use #2 permetex on the front seal surface to cover. DO NOT USE A RUBBER REAR SEAL, use a rope seal ONLY.

[Gunslinger]

Midwest Military had a rear seal that they designed and sold for a while that was supposed to solve this problem.  I'm not sure if they still do or not.  Might be worth giving John a call, he is aware of this problem. 

Jamesr you are not the lone ranger in that boat, I too lost a crank over a bad rear seal.

[ZekeD]

Thanks,  I haven't done anything yet.    (-27 last nite) excuses excuses.....   But I will give John a call.

ZD

[jamesr]

Gunslinger--That makes us feel better!  I hate to be the only one that gets to spend an extra $600 I had not planned on!