Steel Gauge of Floors?

[Steve]

Can someone please tell me the gauge of the steel in the driver and passenger floors of the CJ3A? Thanks.

[SteveW]

All major panels in the jeep were 18 gauge steel.

[bretto]

If you have a choice and want to, step it up to 16 gage, same for the hat channels.

[athawk11]

If you have a choice and want to, step it up to 16 gage, same for the hat channels.

X2

[BMIC]

Tim/Brett, you must have access to a heavy brake to make Hat Channels out of 16 gage. I have been making different floor patches out of 18 gage and find that difficult to work with basic tools. The tub work is proving to be much more time consuming then the mechanicals.  I did buy a air powered tin nippers but 18 gage is the max thickness it will handle. Duplicating the accelerator hump in a floor patch accurately with basic tools has taken me the past two Saturdays. Ok... my ability is a factor.

[bretto]

I just had the sheet metal shop bend me some general straight lengths for the hats then I cut them as needed.  For the floors, I did those at home, but used the old cut floors that I had cut out as patterns.  Then to bend the 90* edge that meets the tub, I clamped the sheet between two pieces of heavy steel and just peened it over to a 90* bend.  Nothing fancy. I was fortunate enough to have a good tunnel from all the oil and grease that preserved it and didn't have to do anything with it.

[athawk11]

I did what Brett did.� I pinched the steel between to large chunks of angle...



I heated the edge, then hammered it into shape...



I did not have a pattern, so I clamped the floors in place, drew the shape and cut them to size...




Then welded them into postion...



I did make the hat channels for the cargo area out of 16 gauge, but I bought the pre-made kit that supports the front floors...

[BMIC]

Photo's speak a thousand words, Brett I have been into your photo album a dozen times for reference as well as Tim's two builds. The key part of the equation that I have been leaving out is as you mentioned Brett, applying heat. Obviously that would make the bends easier with crispier lines.
Tim nice welds, are you using a Mig?

[bretto]

Tim used the word heat, not I.  I just hammered away, no heat applied.  Just saying

[Steve]

Those pictures are very helpful. Rather than purchase floors, I think that I may try your tracing approach..� A few questions:

1. I have to cut out the floor. Should I cut flush with the sides, or leave the lip? If I leave the lip, I am going to have to separate the old floor from the sides. Not sure if it is a continuous or spot weld.

2. What is the dimension (height) of the bend of the floor panel?

3. What did you use to cut out the floor to get such nice, straight cuts?

4. Where do you weld the floors to the side panels? Underneath, or at the top where the floor meets the side panel?
Thanks.
Steve

[bretto]

Those pictures are very helpful. Rather than purchase floors, I think that I may try your tracing approach..� A few questions:

1. I have to cut out the floor. Should I cut flush with the sides, or leave the lip? If I leave the lip, I am going to have to separate the old floor from the sides. Not sure if it is a continuous or spot weld.


2. What is the dimension (height) of the bend of the floor panel?

3. What did you use to cut out the floor to get such nice, straight cuts?

4. Where do you weld the floors to the side panels? Underneath, or at the top where the floor meets the side panel?
Thanks.
Steve

1.They are spot welded in.  Either get a spot weld cutter or drill out the welds from underneath.  Id remove the whole floor with lip.  That way you wont have to deal with welding in that whole edge.

2.I cant remember, maybe 3/4 inch.  Just copy what's there. 

3.I just used a super thin cut off wheel in my angle grinder.

4.You just plug weld the panels back in the same spot as the old spot welds.  Then weld the inner edge to the tunnel and firewall.

[athawk11]

Steve,
Everything that Bretto mentions... [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

I believe the lip on the floor pans is 5/8", but as Bretto says, measure the existing and duplicate.� The cut wheel we both used is 1/16" thick.� Get a hand full of them.� You will burn through them pretty quick.� It bolts up to a grinder.� Makes cutting straight lines pretty easy.� I used a fine tip Sharpie to draw the lines.� Wear hand and eye protection at all times!!

Good Luck!!

BMIC,
Thanks!
Yes.� It's a little Lincoln 125.� I use flux cored wire.� I like it.� The Green Willys was the ginny-pig.� It took the brunt of my trial and error.� Burned holes...warped panels...too hot.� Poor penetration...too cold.� I think I ended up welding nearly everything twice on that one, but I eventually got better.

Tim

[Steve]

Thanks guys. The quality and volume of help and suggestions from the members of this site is awesome.

Steve