Toolbox handle

[macrisel]

On my reproduction tub, the toolbox did not come with a handle on the door.  I'll try and post some photos later, but basically there is just a hole drilled in the door where the D-ring handle should be.  

I have a few ideas, but was looking for photos of what some other members with either reproduction tubs or toolboxes have done.  Right now, I have a piece of rope stuck through the hole and knotted on the end to use as a pull strap!  A nice "Bubba" mod, but I think I'll do something a little more original looking.

[rocketeer]

That hole may have been a Bubba mod. Every repro tub and/or toolbox I've seen had the D ring. Somebody may have a scrap lid they can salvadge the D ring off of. Where are you located?

Larry

[Carls_jeep]

If the hole is big enough to stick your finger in to lift the lid I don't see a problem. The toolbox is not water proof from the top so if rain water gets in the Jeep it still can go in the tool box. You can buy a D ring and make a loop welded to a plate to weld over the hole if you want to make it look like original.

In the great scheme of things having a D ring or a hole is not important, getting the lid open is important and the rope works.

[rocketeer]

If the seal is installed correctly, and the lid matches the toolbox, �the toolbox is indeed waterproof from the top. The CJ2A and CJ3A toolboxes are different and you can not mix and match lids. Later models had a drain running from the channel around the seal out the back of the box.

Drain hole as seen from above:


Drain channel:


Drain hole out rear of box through the floor riser:


Larry

[calvinhunt]

Larry,
 ï¿½No, its not a Bubba Mod its an MD Juan cheap failure to make the reproduction accurate. �That's the way my repro tub came and I wanted it to be original bad enough that I removed my old tool box lid door from my old tub and transferred it with its original D ring to my new tub. I also drilled off the adjacent D ring on the top of the tool box and rerivited it to the top of the new tool box in the proper "original" location.

Carl,
 ï¿½What fun is it to open the lid by sticking your finger in a hole when you can have a D ring to do it? �We're going to have to talk through this next time you come for a visit. �(Carl is too practical for his own good.)

Old tool box lid on new repro tub.


Another pic of the old lid on the new tub. �If you look closely at the old tub in the back you can see that the cowl is missing. �I didn't like the instrument panel on the repro tub so I drilled off the cowl and instrument panel from the old tub and reinstalled them on the tub. �Had I known the amount of body work it was going to take to make me happy with the repro tub I would have put that effort into the original tub. �(Maybe Carl is right, Just drive 'em and enjoy 'em.)


In the pic you can see the two D rings after paint.

[Carls_jeep]

  Calvin, your right, I don't get caught up in having it stock. I didn't know they have a seal on the lid. I don't think mine even has a catch to keep it closed but it does have a D ring.

I guess I am just a "get 'er done" person. If it looks good and works it's done. �;D You probably found that out when I was in Blanding with you.

[Gunslinger]

I was thinking about installing one of those locks that you see on boat storage compartments. Its keyed, and when you turn it a tab swings into place and locks the door.  That way I can keep some stuff out of sight.

[rocketeer]

In case anyone's interested here's the difference between CJ2A and CJ3A toolbox lids. In addition to the difference in lids, the lips on the box itself are different. The Omix repro box is the 3A type.

CJ2A, vertical brace with a double cabinet clip that fastens over an exposed rod in the toolbox and has a rear support for the brace:


CJ3A, horizontal brace with a single spring clip that snaps under the lip of the toolbox. Note the drain hole and rubber seal:


Larry

[Bob W]

I was thinking about installing one of those locks that you see on boat storage compartments. Its keyed, and when you turn it a tab swings into place and locks the door. �That way I can keep some stuff out of sight.

The tool box can be locked with a padlock through the D rings.

[athawk11]

Dang Bob,
Good idea on the padlock....but that's just one more thing that rattles.  There are enough rattles on mine as it is.

Tim

[macrisel]

Calvin, swapping the toolbox lids was at the top of my ideas!   8-)  I have also thought about swapping out the entire toolbox since my original has the "Jeep" script on it.  Two or three years ago I would have done it without thinking twice.  Back then, I was still in my "all original" stage..........but now, after working on this for almost five years, I am sliding back to the left and Carl's point of vew  I am really ready to get this little pet on the road!

Larry, I havn't paid that much attention to the drain hole.  I'll have to check that when I head back out to the shop.  I would definately like to have the drain hole and channel.  As always, you are fountain of information!

[rocketeer]

Sadly, the repros don't have the drain hole. As for the script, some guys have cut out just the script from their old toolbox and grafted it into the front of the new one. Less work than a complete toolbox transplant. �;)

Larry

[Steve]

I am not sure that the drain hole was a great idea. Mine is/was completely packed  with all kinds of organic matter that found its way into the support over the years from the drain hole; it was stuffed top-to-bottom.  Needless to say, organic stuff + water makes for rust. Perhaps with some creative work with a welder and JB Weld, I can salvage what is left of the support.

Steve