Front brake drum

[Quebec Jeep]

I had to used a 12 ton press to remove my front drum from their hub.
I will need to replace all studs now.

Here the question:

Does the stud was only pressed against the hub and the drum or do are they kind of pressed/riveted?

I had one bad hub but now I have two bad drum....

Those stud were the most hard to remove that I've ever seen.

Should I try to find good used drum or should I buy new replacement?

[PaulS]

I'd think I'd want all my drums to have similar wear.  But I'm no expert.

I've pulled a grand total of 10 drums in my life, and none needed more than a few taps with a hammer to come loose.  And I think only two needed that much--the rest came off by hand.  (Hubs are a different story...)

-Paul

[Quebec Jeep]

Sorry my english.

I'm taking about the piece that are attach to the drum. The center piece with the wheel bearing and cup in it.

I had one bad. A screw was broken in it and the previous owner just tap bigger thread in it and use a bigger bolt.

So I was not able to install my new dualmatic hub and no way I would drill one bigger hole in it to fit it.

I found one drum with a correct hub. My plan was to remove it and use it with my original drum.

In the second picture, it's hard to see but the hole on the top right is bigger and there still a part of the broken bolt in it.

[PaulS]

Is the bad hole where the locking hub mechanism bolts on?

I'd certainly be replacing that part.  I wouldn't think it would matter if it was new or good-quality used.

(I'd send you one, but I'm keeping all my extra parts at least until this project is finished!)

-Paul

[Quebec Jeep]

Yes its where the locking hub mechanism bolts on.
So to remove it from the drum, I had to remove the stud.
The drum get damaged. They are now bend.

Is it normal or not to have a lot of difficulty to remove those studs? Are they pressed then riveted?

[PaulS]

Are you talking about the studs that hold the wheels on (the ones with the "R" stamp in your pictures)?  Or the ones holding the locking mechanism into the holes in the picture?

I've never removed the wheel studs, but I think they should just be pressed in.

On the four front hubs I've disassembled, the locking mechanism was held on by bolts, not studs.  And I didn't have any problems removing them.

On the newer axle I took apart, though, there was a Spicer type front axle shaft, and it has a C-clip at the end.  On that one, I had to disassemble the locking mechanism itself to be able to access and remove the clip.  But once I did that, everything came apart easily.

-Paul

[Quebec Jeep]

Yes the ones with the "R" stamp on it.

[PaulS]

In taking a second look:  are those your brake drums behind the hub?  Does the wheel stud come through the brake drum from behind? 

If so, this is different from either of the front axles I took apart.  On mine, the brake drum was in front of the hub plate, and could just slide off, with the hub still on the vehicle.

That's a pretty significant difference.  How is it supposed to be done?  And what about on the back?

-Paul

[Quebec Jeep]

To answer to your questions;
Yes and Yes. I don't know. The back is in the same fashion.
Here is a picture of the back

[F Bill]

A Google search for "swaged wheel studs" resulted in many good forum threads about this..

Here's one with good pictures.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/swaging.htm

And yes, the drums are sandwiched between the stud head and the hub on Pascal's jeep.

[Quebec Jeep]

Thanks Bill.

Now the questions is how on a CJ3A the stud should be installed? Do they are normally swaged?

And do my drum,hub and stud are properly installed on my jeep? Is it the "normal" way?

[Quebec Jeep]

Hum,..The more I red about it, the more I'm getting anxious.

I ordered to new drum. I should get them tomorrow. I also ordered new studs.

I will inspect my hub carefully and check if they are not damaged.

Should I try to find someone in town who can reinstall them and swage them?

[F Bill]

The earlier jeeps were all installed the way yours are, Pascal. Aftermarket drums and later jeeps are installed on the outside of the hub and simply pop off.

If your new studs install with a fair amount of resistance I wouldn't bother with swaging them. Actually finding someone to do it might be difficult as it is no longer a normal day to day operation for brake work on todays cars.

Take a look at the hub where the bolts were pressed out and see if there is any sign of tearout  due to a larger swaged area being forced back thru a smaller hole. If you can rotate the new studs to a point where the knurling does not match the previous bolt's grooves it made in the hub you may still be OK. Some tack weld the studs in if they loosen up but I can't really recommend that option.

Double check those new drums to see if they are the same as your old ones or designed for installation as a slip over the hub deal.

[RedWilly]

The studs will come serrated and unless your hub is egg shaped they should press in and hold. I had to spot weld a couple as they did not hold. I used a shop press to remove and install. On the ones that did not hold I pressed in, tighten a lug nut in place to square the stud to the hub and then spot welded in a couple of spots.

[Matto]

The rear axle on my 3B is the same way. I had a friend press out a broken stud and press in a new one from Walcks that was serrated around its base. As far as your hub with the larger hole, you might have been able to put a 3/8" Helicoil in.