Heat riser??

[calvinhunt]

Thanks scoutpilot,
  As I said in an earlier response on this thread, I had a working heat risor and just wired it open to chase a rattle.  Left it wired open.  After your great explanation it'll be un-wired next time I drive my Jeep.  Since I got it working properly during the restoration it might as well be free to do what it was made to do.  Thanks again.

[1955CJ-5]

So it seems the worm has turned, and the heat riser is a good thing that should be operational. I see Walcks carries all the parts except the flap..is the flap made of something besides plain steel?

Anyone have one that they can take a picture of over a grid (cutting board)of some kind so I can make one?

[Macgraham]

I am sending a photo of a heat riser critter that came on my replacement L 134. It is manual and I'm thinking you have to get out and change the setting as it warms up. The flap wasn't stuck and works fine. I don't see any way to put the bi-metal spring on it. Seems pretty labor intensive to me. It has an arrow on the arm with the word, ON.

[scoutpilot]

That setup may be for an industrial motor. I'll take some pics tomorrow and post them, unless someone beats me to it.

[scoutpilot]

The following two photos show the correct orientation for the heat riser valve in the open position.

[scoutpilot]

#1 Notice the orientation of the slot in the axle. It is aligned at 10 and 4 o'clock. The spring slides into the slot and is tightened with the arm to the shaft. Note also the spring tab and its position on the manifold.

[scoutpilot]

#2 The fully open position. Notice the spring rests on top of the tab which mounts to the left-lower manifold to manifold bolt. To re-bush the valve requires grinding the spot welds that hold the valve on the axle and driving the axle and old bushings out.

[scoutpilot]

Spot welds holding valve to axle. Inspect the valve closely. the welds are in the middle, so start there and keep working out until you find the inside edges of the flapper.