Front tranny leak

[bretto]

So I have a known front tranny seal leak.  In an attempt to remedy this I dropped the tranny and tcase last weekend and found that the lube was getting by the felt seal and seeping down the tube then in to the bell housing then out.  This was a brand new seal that came in a Crown kit.  So in my thinking, I thought I bet if it was slightly thicker, it might make it seal up a little better.  I made another donut out of some thinner felt I had and added behind the other felt seal.  It was a bit snugger on the output shaft when the bearing retainer was bolted back on.  Fast forward to it still leaks about the same amount. I get about a 3-4" puddle after a drive.
So, I am now wanting to have another go at this but hope to go in more prepared.  I have read up a bit and found some have used a sealed bearing in place of the open type and thought about going that route.  
Anyone have any tips or suggestions?

[Carls_jeep]

Have you checked the vent on the top of the tranny to see if it is open? I assume the tranny is not over filled so the vent is the only reason I can think of that would cause that.

If you can find a front bearing that is sealed on ONE SIDE ONLY you can use it along with the felt seal.

[bretto]

Carl,
I'm not sure what vent you are talking about, do you mean the vent on the tcase?  That one is clear and no, the cases are filled to where they should be to the bottoms of the fill plugs.

[Carls_jeep]

Yes, I was referring to the vent on top of the tranny and I think it's on the shift tower. If that is ok I guess your only solution is a sealed front bearing. Have you done a search for a bearing with seals? If you find one be sure to remove one of the seals so oil can get into the bearing but still sealed on the outside.

[bretto]

Yes,
some bearing part #s are
SKF 6208 2RSNRJEM
MRC 208 SZZG

[Carls_jeep]

I'm not sure the SKF 6208 has a snap ring groove. The one you select will need a snap ring groove on the outer race in the right location.

[bretto]

From the forums I have read, the SKF---6208-2RSNRJ/EM, is what others have used.  If that cant be found the MRC 208-SZZG is an equivalent.  Both of which aren't too easy to track down.
I have also come across a brand called Nachi bearings and have found that their 6208-2NSENR is a fit also.  I have never heard of Nachi but a bit of searching shows their bearings have been used in various applications.  They are a Japanese bearing,  I wont buy any bearings from China.  Anyone have any info or first hand experience of their bearings?
With searching this info, I find it interesting that the bearing unit used in these boxes is metric.
40mm X 80mm X 18mm (1.5748in X 3.1496in X 0.7086in)  I measured that against a bearing I have on hand that was replaced on the rebuild and its right at that.
As soon as I obtain a bearing and get time, I will get this done and do a flup with pics.

[bretto]

Ok, got a genuine SKF bearing on the way.  Located one fleabay $30 to my door, not bad.

[Carls_jeep]

The SKF bearings are made in several Countries including China and Hong Kong so it will be a toss up where your bearing will be from.

The next important things is a SKF 6208 comes with and without a snap ring groove and you NEED a groove.

The SKF 6208 2RSJEM is a double seal without a snap ring groove.

The SKF 6208 2RSNRJEM is a double seal WITH a snap ring groove.

If you do not specify the correct number with the correct suffix letters you may not get the bearing you need. When ordering a bearing you can;t just order using the basic numbers, you have to use all the numbers and letters to designate the style bearing you want.

It has to have a snap ring groove to use in the T90 tranny. You could leave both seals in the bearing but I suggest you remove the seal that would be on the inside of the tranny.

[bretto]

Ya I got the right one coming.  I did my research
SKF 6208 2RSNRJEM

[Carls_jeep]

Good job, just wanted to be sure you had the right numbers. Sometimes it's hard to get the right bearing because different makers use different designations.

[bretto]

I can't recall from the last time I had the tranny stripped down as to what was involved in pulling out the main front drive gear shaft.  Does the main rear shaft have to be backed out the rear in order for the front shaft to go out the front?  I'll be able to figure it out as I go but I would rather get mentally prepared to all that's involved.  From what I read on Rick Stivers's rebuild guide, his steps show it being pulled out before the front can be removed.  I'm just wondering if that is only because he is showing a full tear down.  I'm hoping I can just pull out the front somehow without doing the latter which means separating the tcase from the tranny.  Basically a full tear down.  I'm thinking that the oil slinger is going hang me up.  I think I remember in order to get the main shaft out the front, that slinger had to be moved, and in order to remove it, the cluster gear had to be dropped, which means a full stripping of the box basically. I'm expecting the worst but hope someone tells me otherwise.
Thanks

[bretto]

Well, I think I might be getting too good at dropping the gear boxes. �Took me all but an hour to pull everything and drop them down. �With support from above and below it is a very controlled move. �And I was able to remove �the bearing from the front end with a little persuasion. �Now I have to wait for the bearing to come.

[Carls_jeep]

WOW, that's interesting. I didn't think you would be able to get the bearing off the input shaft that easy. You normally have to pull the counter shaft and drop the counter shaft out of the way to pull the input shaft. That means you have to remove the transfer case.

Since you were able to get the bearing off the input shaft that's good and it sure saved a lot of extra work. Did you remove the seal off the inside of the new bearing?

[calvinhunt]

Bretto,
  As I have followed this thread I have ached for you.  I have had reason to pull my transmission too many times already (each one has been posted here, as well). It's not fun.  But when I saw your photo above (with the strap support from your garage ceiling) the photo revealed the large floor section that is removable in the M38 (as with the other military Jeeps), I quit aching for you so much.  How nice it would be to have that big section of the floor out of the way when you need to R & R the transmission.  That's almost as nice as having the tub out of the way.  I have said a couple of times before, here on the CJ-3A page, that if I had to do it over again I would seek out an M38 to rebuild.  The big hole in the floor is just one reason.  Another is the spare tire mounted on the back where it belongs.  Another is the fully restored Jeep has the desirable OD paint which is much more forgivable than is my glossy yellow.
  I hope your sealed bearing does the job.  I don't know any way that it couldn't.  Good luck!!