Axle nut

[dodjh]

How tight should the axle nut be when replacing the brake drum.

Also, when replacing the brake hub seal should it be flush with the top of the opening or set in some?

Thanks

[athawk11]

Dod,

I'm pretty sure there was no specific torque for the rear axle nut.   At least, I couldn't find one.  

I set the drum and washer, then tightened the castle nut to where it was as tight as I could get it while still aligning the cotter pin hole with the castle nut notch.

A later 1965 manual listed the torque at 150-175.

On the seal, I'm not sure.  My new seals are sitting in a box.  My old seals were still good.  God knows, I don't want to pull the drum to peak.  

Generally, a seal will seat up against a backer of some kind.  You will drive it home until it doesn't move any further.

Hopefully others will chime in.

Tim

[dodjh]

Tim...Thank you for the reply.

The axle cone and bearing on the front axles are coated in gear oil...probably from the differential gear oil.

Should I coat the axle hub and pack the bearing and cone with axle grease before re-installing?

Thanks

[Gunslinger]

I'm assuming your talking about the rear axle here, I believe those are tapered axles?  Mine were, in any case I put a thin fim of oil on them when I replaced the hub, the hub will push out any significant amount of oil or grease that you put on there , so I just put on a little in order to provide some anit corrosion.

[athawk11]

Dod,

I was also assuming you were on your rear axle.  Saw your post at the 2A.  Front axles clearly have different rules.  As some of those guys mentioned, tighten up the inner nut, back it off 1/4 ish, set the washer then outer nut just tight, then bend the edge of the washer to lock the outer nut in postion.

I did a very very light coat of grease on the cone of the rear axle. As Gun mentions, this is just to aid in removal of the drum if needed.

Tim