Rear Wheel Hub?

[BMIC]

Just finished replacing outer oil seals and brakes on my Dana 44. I am trying to determine whether my old wheel hubs are too worn to match up effectivly with the new oil seals or is it time to replace the hubs on this hope for daily driver.
 This is my third attempt to post this with a picture, hopefully third time is the charm....

[rocketeer]

I might be tempted to emery cloth the seal surface and give them a try but then again new ones are only $55 each and for a daily driver that may be the prudent way to go. Be aware the new hubs do not come with wheel studs. You can remove those studs by placing a socket under the head, thread the nut on flush, lay a block of wood on top and smack it with a hammer, although I see from the photo that the studs are already removed from that hub. If the serrations aren't bad you can reuse the studs. I pull the studs in using the original nut with a bunch of flat washers. The threads may bottom out before the stud is fully seated and you will have to remove the nut and add some washers. You may have to do that once or twice for each stud. An impact wrench makes it much easier. Make sure the stud isn't * when starting.

Larry

[BMIC]

Thanks Larry, I did smooth out the surface a bit and go with the old hubs. If in the end it does leak it is not a big job to replace them. I am replacing the brakes, drums, etc and true to form the studs knock out of one side easy and the other......
I am staying with the original 9" brakes but will be replacing the master cylinder, should I go with a duel chamber MC or stay original single. Is it strictly a safety issue?

REMEMBERING 9/11....

[rocketeer]

A dual MC is a safety issue. FWIW, I will be converting mine to a dual MC over the Winter.

Larry

[macrisel]

Larry, can you expand on the MC issue?  Why would this be a safety issue?  I'n not doubting you, I'm just curious...

[F Bill]

I'll give it a shot, if teh connection holds...

Dual masters divide teh brakes so if a line on one wheel goes bad or a wheel cylinder fails, you still have some remaining operational brakes to stop with. Normally they divide to front and rear circuits.

A stock single master loses all brakes if you have a system leak. You will only have the emergency brake to make a stop with.

[rocketeer]

and the e-brake isn't all the efficient, especially if some gear oil has leaked onto it (very common). Keep in mind too that the e-brake does not actually apply any true brakes, it attempts to lock the driveshaft, a very different thing. Having driven many cars in my lifetime with that type of "brake" I will tell you what can happen, especially under somewhat slippery conditions, such as rain, ice, snow, mud, or gravel. The e-brake locks the driveshaft but the wheels keep turning, one frontwards, one backwards, because of the spider gears. As long as one tire has less than ideal grip on the surface this can happen with the result that you have no way to stop the vehicle.

I'm a bit of a stickler as far as keeping these jeeps as stock as possible mechanically but this is one area where I will pay homage to caution and update the M/C.

Larry

[macrisel]

Thanks guys!  That is great information to know.