Fuel pump

[bretto]

My rig is a M38 with a little CJ3A under the hood.  My question is, has anyone tried or is using an Airtex Master 9562 pump?  I'm guessing it needs the spacer.  Right now I have a Carter fuel only pump but would like a set up to properly run the vacuum wipers in stead of relying on the manifold vacuum.  Or does anyone have a stock set up they'd sell?
Thanks,
Brett

[athawk11]

Hey Brett.

I'm not familiar with that specific pump, but I believe the general rule for 3A and M38s is the pump will need the spacer. I believe I ended up with an F-head pump, but no big deal when you own a salad.

Two reasons that I know of:

1. �It reduces the fuel pressure. �Because of the spacer, there is less fuel pump 'arm' making contact with the cam shaft lobe.

2. The other reason I found was that the larger head of the vacuum pumps need to be moved away from the block so they fit behind the front engine mount plate. �That is what the gap on the back side of your plate is for. �If you go to fit your new pump without that spacer, you will see what I mean.

Because I know how talented you are, you can make your own spacer. �(that's what I did) �I think I used 3/16" thick scrap steel. �I used my pump as a template. �Drew it, cut and drilled it, polished it...waaa laaa, spacer.

Tim


Shot of the gap in the engine plate.


Shot of my fuel pump installed.




 ï¿½

[bretto]

Do you know the part # on that pump?  Looks like your engine plate is ground on the inside edge?

[rocketeer]

Just for reference, the 2 stage pump requires a spacer, the single stage pump does not, no matter what year engine.

Larry

[athawk11]

Yep,  
Even with the spacer, with this pump, I had to create a bit more space.

I don't remember the number.  Got it off Ebay.

This is it:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Willys-CJ2A-3A-Cj3B-134L-134F-vacume-fuel-pump-/300512563274?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45f7f1d04a&vxp=mtr

 It's a decent pump, but I wish I had the money for a real M38 pump.

Tim

[bretto]

This one would work right?
AC9562

[athawk11]

Yeah Brett,

I'm not super sure, but that looks like the right pump for a 3A.

Tim

[calvinhunt]

has anyone tried or is using an Airtex Master 9562 pump? �I'm guessing it needs the spacer. �Right now I have a Carter fuel only pump but would like a set up to properly run the vacuum wipers in stead of relying on the manifold vacuum. �

Hi bretto, I installed that exact pump during the rebuild of my Jeep a few years ago. �I purchased it new from Northern Auto Parts in Sioux City, IA (northernautoparts.com). �I'm using the spacer, it came on my Jeep originally. �

[bretto]

Calvin, did you have any clearance issues between the keyhole in the engine plate and that particular pump?

[calvinhunt]

I had no clearance problem at all with the keyhole in the engine plate. �There may be one possible concern--as you can see in the pics I used a steel supply line from the engine oil galley port behind the fuel pump to the oil filter. �It is routed rearward and then a large radius bend brings it back to its original routing up through the original support and towards the oil filter.  As I remember I didn't do that because of clearance problems, I just copied what we do in aviation: where there is no relative motion between components, a steel line is used instead of a rubber line that deteriorates with age. �This item has come up before on this site and many have said that a rubber hose will outlast a steel line. �They say the steel lines will crack. �I should add that in the aviation industry all lines are made of stainless steel. �The line I have used here is just a NAPA doubled-flared brake line. �However, they last for years in cars and trucks being subjected to much higher pressures and many many more miles than I will put on my little Jeep in the rest of my life. �I believe they will perform well. �Time will tell.

[Gunslinger]

Off Topic, but Wow, that's some pretty impressive plumbing on both of those rigs.  Nice Work.

[BMIC]

I will echo Gunslinger, great work!!!

[F Bill]

Calvin, the oil line I had that cracked was the one that goes to the timing cover.. I think the reasoning behind the rubber lines (I would prefer an aeroquip type line here myself) was that the actual oil filter does tend to vibrate and move around on that bracket...I do know the failure of the oil filter bracket is a vibration issue, why it fails like it always seems to (cracking around the bolt holes and across the bracket) is not something I claim to be an expert at..

That said, I do know that brake lines from a master cylinder to the frame on many pickup trucks are done with a bend or curve to absorb the between part movement, so the half loop you put in your line may eliminate any movement issues. The line I installed was only 90 degree bends, which might tend to crack.

I replaced my oil line with a parts store fuel/brake line piece of steel tubing, like you did, mainly because it was available and I wanted to get the jeep running again. (My jeep fixing time is extremely limited these days with home time being one or maybe two days at most...)

If we could cure the bracket and line cracking issues on jeeps we'd be doin' something!

[Tumbleweed]

Hey athawk11 what is that in line from the fuel pump to the carb. Is that a filter? I was also impressed with the plumbing on both rigs. So much so I saved a copy in my CJ file as a must do!

Tumbleweed

[aboyandhisdog]

Tim,  I was also wondering the same re: your filter.  And, do you have a pressure regulator for the Solex?  If not, how does it run?  Not too rich???