My 1953 3A restoration

[garage gnome]

We took care of it. No bearings spun. It had good oil pressure (40) when it was running. At least it shut off right away when the pump locked up. There is no excuse why a modern pump would do that. I rebuild the original one and its been fine since.

[Comanche_County]

At this point in the restoration, we had the rolling chassis complete. I was getting pretty excited when I could actually drive it around!



and the running chassis.

We are looking at one of God's greatest creations, that frame is a thing of beauty...I have "straight frame jealousy" right now.

[Bob W]

What is the engine serial number?

Thanks!

[F Bill]

Gunslingers reply with some great info has been moved to [link=http://cj-3a.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1331229615]This Thread[/link]

[garage gnome]

What is the engine serial number?

Thanks!

Its 3J14208. I think there is another number after the 8 (the last few digits are hard to read). It is stamped really light compared to my '49 3A.

[garage gnome]

We are looking at one of God's greatest creations, that frame is a thing of beauty...I have "straight frame jealousy" right now.

Haha, thanks. It is pretty pitted in the back though. I'm glad it wasn't hacked up or anything.

[Bob W]

Its 3J14208. I think there is another number after the 8 (the last few digits are hard to read). It is stamped really light compared to my '49 3A.

Thanks again �:)

[garage gnome]

Bob, does the number I gave you match up with any 53s? I mean, do any others have the same amount of digits? I was looking through the database here, and that number would fit in with up to 51. I'm pretty sure the engine is original to the jeep

[Bob W]

Judging by the characteristics of block there must be another digit, as you mentioned. 3J14208x is a bit higher than what I would expect to see in a 1953 CJ-3A although anything is possible. What is the casting number on the passenger side of the block and the numbers and letter on the drivers side near the rear?

[garage gnome]

The casting number is: 641087-W-13-D-P5 CU CR

on the drivers side it has:

13T

10 15 D

[athawk11]

Hey,  GG,

Looking forward to the next installment....bring it!!

Your work really looks terrific.  How old are you again?

Tim

[Gunslinger]

Hey Gnome, do you have any shots of the brake set up, I've got some 10 inch hardware and I'm trying to figure out how the heck to hook it all up.
thanks, nice build bTw.

[Bob W]

Nate,

I'd say your engine is original. The serial number is a bit higher than the normal skew (this stuff happens all the time with Willys) but the casting numbers are a good fit. There should be another digit at the end of the serial number.

[garage gnome]

Thanks Bob! I thought it was original, but I wasn't 100% sure because it had looked like someone replaced the engine. All the bolts for the bell housing were not originals.

Tim, I turned 19 In January. I started restoring this when I was 14 during the summer between 8h grade and 9th. I finished it when I was a�Junior when I just got my license.

Sorry gunslinger, I don't have any shots of the 10" guts. I can take one tomorrow for you. Do yours have a self adjusting mechanism?

[garage gnome]

Since the chassis was done, it was time for body work, oh joy. �:

Since my tub was so bad and wasn't worth the time in repairing it, I bought a reproduction body kit, which was still no better (you will see later on why). I didn't use the windshield frame because it was really crappy compared to my original, which was in real nice shape.



We started by building the jeep, so all the holes and fitment would be there after paint and it would hopefully go together smoothly.



I probably drove it around for a month like this! This pic made it into the 2010 Early CJ5 calendar. At one point, we had everything on it like lights. My advice would be if you do buy a repro tub, build the entire jeep first then paint.