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Author Topic: Seams On The Hood  (Read 3239 times)

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Offline Tumbleweed

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Seams On The Hood
« on: January 06, 2012, 11:53:53 AM »
The hood on CJ does not appear to be a 1 piece thing. It looks like the seam down the center is tack welded on the inside. My question is were there any spot welds on top of the seam? Looks like the previous owner may have welded a spot on the front and then on the back toward the windshield. I think it would look better if the seam ran all the way front and back without weld spots. Did the original hoods have spot welds on top?Love to see some pictures if you have them.


George
49 CJ3A - "Smokey"
53 Willys Wagon - "Wylie"

Offline Matto

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Re: Seams On The Hood
« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2012, 12:34:30 PM »
George,
            Check out this link to the CJ3B page. Good info on hoods. These are the same hood as the 3A only taller.
http://www.film.queensu.ca/cj3b/Tech/HoodProblems.html
Matt
1949 CJ3A project,1954 CJ3B weekend driver,2012 JK Rubicon DD and weekend trail rig,2016 Ford F350 for dragging cool stuff home :)

Offline F Bill

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Re: Seams On The Hood
« Reply #2 on: January 06, 2012, 01:27:52 PM »
The front and rear 1/2 inch or (EDIT make that 2 -3 inches on my hoods I have..)so are normally welded together on the top of the seam then metalfinished. The left and right half of the hood are resistance spot welded together on the underside flange, and the rear bracing (which should be one continuous piece on a 3A hood as opposed to 3 piece on earlier hoods) is also spot welded to the hood. �Anything other than that is most likely an attempt at a repair.

If you try to make a continuous weld across the top of the hood you will cause all sorts of warpage and misalignment problems unless you take tremendous care to avoid those issues. The flatfender hood is a weak design compared to most hoods, and keeping it flat and not oil canned means you gotta keep people and deer carcasses off it. Or live with the denting, or brace it additionally underneath.

That's why I had to go thru ten or more hoods to find one good one for my DJ project. I finally found one last week... and the first butt that tries to plop down on it will get shot. �:D

By the way...a spot weld usually refers to a weld performed by passing electricity thru the pieces being welded together, normally with a pair of copper tongs powered by a transformer. Most automobile bodies are spot welded together, and if you look closely you can usually see the spot welds as an indentation on the surfaces that are welded together.. �A "Tack weld" is a small weld designed to hold parts in alignment and can be preformed by any welding process, and usually is welded right over later when the seam is fully welded. �I don't know if the actual fusion welds using filler rod on the hood were done with oxyacetylene �or an early mig welder...
« Last Edit: January 09, 2012, 02:01:41 PM by F_Bill »
Owner of the world famous?? Pintojeep 3A and one yet to be named stock project 3A.
Based in central TX and upstate NY.

Offline aboyandhisdog

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Re: Seams On The Hood
« Reply #3 on: January 06, 2012, 01:38:19 PM »
Hi George,  While I can't speak directly to your question, I can tell you that dealing with this was about the very first thing I did when I bought my 3A 4 years ago.  It seemed clear to me that this was a poor design that, if not mitigated, would potentially cause me problems down the road.  So, realizing that the twisting was stressful to the hood, and, wanting to have an easier way to open the hood without the stresses, and wanting to slightly reinforce the hood, I decided to add a handle to the underside of the hood which spans the center seam.  This is a 7 or 8 inch steel handle from the hardware store.  After unhooking the hood hold-down clamps, I just raise the hood from the front while catching the handle in the center and gently lowering the hood against the windshield frame.   I bolted it up about 12 inches from the hoods piano hinge.  This seems to be about the right height for me (I'm 6ft. tall).  It is high enough that I can grab it easily when I open the hood, but not so high that I have to let go of it as the hood nears the windshield.  And it clears the air cleaner duct, etc. on the underside.  Yes, you have to drill two holes for the bolts in the hood, which I realize will not work for many with all original CJ's.  

Another "improvement" I made is to run a light bead of clear caulk (I used "Big Stretch", stays pliable) down the length of this seam.  I could see I was going to get a lot of sand stuck in that seam if I didn't do something.  Works great, and you can't even see it.
Tom


Offline Tumbleweed

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Re: Seams On The Hood
« Reply #4 on: January 06, 2012, 02:16:05 PM »
Good info and thanks gents. The welds on the top are tack welds. I have a little oil canning going on as well but I hope I can live with it. Looks like the windshield came down kinda hard at one point bending the hood a bit. The pictures are great. Hope my repairs come out or I will be looking for a replacement hood myself.

Thanks again,

George
49 CJ3A - "Smokey"
53 Willys Wagon - "Wylie"

Offline ryaneiferd

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Re: Seams On The Hood
« Reply #5 on: January 09, 2012, 12:52:46 PM »
You guys are making me feel better about my hood  :)

Offline Gunslinger

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Re: Seams On The Hood
« Reply #6 on: January 10, 2012, 06:41:48 PM »
TW,
I had an oil can problem with my hood as well.  I rewelded the long seam as that had weakend, I clamped a backing bar to it and used a wire welder to weld spots along the seam every two inches or so.  That stiffened the hood, I should add I did that after poppoing out the big dent.  Then I recurved the hood in the short dierection by putting ratchet straps around it in a couple of places and slowly cranking them tight, this rebend the radius and added stiffening.  Seemed to work out as I don't have the droops anymore in the center of the hood.
Todd
Climbs trees, hides in the long grass, hangs out with wet dogs...

Offline ventport

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Re: Seams On The Hood
« Reply #7 on: January 14, 2012, 11:06:04 PM »
I ran a bead of body seam sealer down the center seam of my hood before I painted it.  It keeps water from running through the seam and dripping on the engine.  It also makes the hood look smoother and a little more finished.  Not for the resto crowd, but good for the drivers.