Another Front Axle Question

[Carls_jeep]

mrman, I suggest you buy four new nuts, and two locking plates. It looks like yours are used up with a chisel.  Also buy a socket for the nut. It's money well spent because if you keep the Jeep you will be cleaning, inspecting, repacking the bearings and replacing the seals every year or two.

The normal way to set taper roller bearings is to tighten them to more than hand tight and roll the drum as you do. Then back it off and then tighten the nut by hand until it stops and bend the locking plate over one of the flats on the nut. Tapered roller bearings are not supposed to be very tight but some vehicle makers have torque specs for them. The Willys manual recommends a method similar to what I said above.

[mrman5917]

I bought a socket last night, and I was planning on getting a new nut kit as well. I haven't a clue how the previous owner did that to the nut, but a chisel sounds like one possibility.

So if I'm reading your post right, the inner nut is tightened until the hub/drum stops turning and then is backed off, and then the second nut sandwiches the larger washer?

[drlain]

Wow, looks alot like mine does!  Did order a socket this am along with 2 sets of nuts and washers.  I also realized that my axle shaft is not threaded on the front like the picture of yours.  Is this the Bendix?

I am trying to figure out how to put pictures on here, not doing very well.....

Debbie

[mrman5917]

Hi Debbie,

I'm not sure if this is Bendix or not yet, since I haven't been able to get that far on the tear down.

What year is your 3A? Maybe BobW can chime in on when the axles stopped having the threaded ends? I should add that my hubs are also behind the drums, meaning that the drums slide right off without using any special tools.

[drlain]

Hi Kurtis,

Mine is an EARLY

[drlain]

Oops....cant hit that button again, mine is an early 1950, S/N 38565.  Alot of parts are dated 1949.  This is a great way to get help!  I have manuals spread out all over but none seem to fit my jeep!

[mrman5917]

Mine is slightly later in the 1950 model year (Augustish), but still early enough to have a Dana 41 rear instead of the later Dana 44.

[drlain]

Hey mine also has the dana 41.  Took both housing covers off today and drained the fluid, looks good so far....have back brakes off, along with backing plate.  Reading about pulling axle shaft and changing oil seal and bearings...have you done that?  Pulling the axle out scares me.  Do you still have the 9 inch drums on yours or did you upgrade?  I am still pondering that.

[mrman5917]

The rear axel had been redone prior to me getting it, so I just changed the fluid and cleaned the outside for paint. I originally decided on going with the 11" drums, but I decided to stick with the 9" drums since I won't drive it much and I already had them.

I just started working on the front axel after finishing the rear. You can see what I came across on http://kurtisfranklin.com if you're interested.

[drlain]

Wow, that is great that you have been keeping such a detailed record, especially for people like me!  I bought a parts jeep also, but have decided it is my next restore instead (mailman says I'm a jeep hoarder).  

Did you put new wheel cylinders on or rebuild them?  That is my current quandry while awaiting tool/parts for front end.  Thanks for the reference site to help me along!

[Gunslinger]

Hi Debbie, Kurtis,
I too have an Early 50 3A, I don't have the SN with me but it has the Dana 41 and a 2A hood.  Debbie, I rebuilt my wheel cylinders and they work fine, the real issue is getting them set right in the first place.  I'm contemplating going to a 10 inch brake drum and have some of the parts, haven't moved on that yet for the same reason as Kurtis, the 9 inch seem to work OK for where I drive.  

Triple X is done now except for adding some of the extras, rifle rack, and some other goodies, if you guys have any questions feel free to drop a note here or PM me.  I find myself here about every day or so.
Todd

[aboyandhisdog]

Todd, would love to see some photos of the finished product if you don't mind.  How's that rebuilt engine looking (and running)?

[johnnybravo]

athawk, May I chime in?  The sharp edges on the large nut (generally caused by using a chisel to install/remove) should smoothed over before you re-install.  They will cut you like a razor and maybe break off and work its way back/forward within the housing and cause other damage.

[athawk11]

Hey Johny,

I have to agree. �I bled plenty of times on the re-do. �I would take it a step further...If my nuts were as chewed up as mrmans, I would do as Carl suggested, �get new nuts and a spindle wrench.

By the way, chime in frequently. �The more thoughts and ideas, the better for all of us.

MrMan, my set up had the same in and out play that you describe. �That's why I started this thread. �It made me nervous and thought I should get some answers here. �Nothing very definitive really came on that issue, but it doesn't seem to affect the performance of my hub/axle. �As Bob mentioned, Warn hubs were not original and this type of modification happened on many Jeeps. �Until someone says this is a very bad thing, I'm living with it.

Tim

[rocketeer]

Butchered locknuts are common. It comes from using a hammer and chisel, or screwdriver, to tighten the nut if you didn't have the correct socket. I usually remove them and grind them back in shape with a bench grinder.

Larry