steering wheel question

[aboyandhisdog]

Can anybody tell me the size socket needed for the steering wheel nut?   Also, I'm wanting to re-position my wheel on the spline - it is at about at 11:00 now and I'd like to shift it to the right to 12:00.  Having never seen the spline situation under the wheel, do you think I can achieve about this degree of movement?  I don't have a puller, but am hoping that I can get it off by tapping with a rubber hammer.  Does this sound like a plan?  Thank you!

[Carls_jeep]

I can't remember the socket size but good luck getting the steering wheel off easy. I bought a Jeep for parts and the steering wheel was in excellent shape. The nut was missing but it came off with little effort. I tried to pull the steering wheel off my Jeep and had to finally split it with a die grinder to get it off. There's a thread about it here. If it doesn't come off easy I suggest you use penetrating oil on it each day for a week. Put the nut on finger tight if you drive it. At some point you may be able to get it off without damaging anything.

Be very careful to not damage the threads by beating on the shaft. Put the nut on all the way then back it off about two turns and then hit it with a dead blow hammer while holding up on the steering wheel. There is a chance it has rusted between the steering wheel and shaft. When you get it off use anti seize lube when you put it back on.

The splines are fine enough that you can get the wheel lined up fairly straight. You need to jack the front axle up and turn the wheel to one side then count the turns to go to the other side. Then turn the wheel back half of those turns and that is where the steering box is centered. Now put the steering wheel on the shaft with one spoke pointing toward the windshield.

Now your going to have to center the wheels by adjusting the tie rods and at the same time set the correct toe in.

Doing anything less is doing a half a** job and may cause you trouble.

[aboyandhisdog]

Carl, this is a great help!  I know the PO had to have the wheel off about 8 years ago for restoration, and I know it has been garaged since, so hoping that the wheel was put on with grease and not too stubborn.  I did read the thread here from about a month or two ago and have a sense of what a job it can be.  If it's too fused, I'll probably just live with it as is.  

Quick question on the horn rubber:  As best I can tell, the rubber only fits about 1/4 inch into the wheel and the thicker part with the wire insert stays outside of the wheel.  Would this be right?  I mean, it's kind of tempting to want the rubber to go in further so that the wire "keeper" is recessed into the wheel, but if I do this, the horn beeps.  Problem is with only putting it in 1/4 inch, it tends to want to pop out every time I brush against it.  I've been adhering it in with a little silicone caulk.  Is this the way this rubber button is supposed to fit?  This is a 3A with the big rubber button - not the small one.

[Carls_jeep]

There are two horn buttons I know about. One is a big rubber cover that fits in a groove near the hex on the nut. The other is a plastic button the is held in by the nut and is about 3/4" in diameter. I had the one with the rubber cover and when I ordered a horn button, nut and wire kit from Walcks they sent the other one. I was a little disapointed at first but now I like the smaller button better.

I'm not sure if I understand what you have but I can post a photo of mine it is will help.

[aboyandhisdog]

I do have the big rubber one that you mentioned. �I'm thinking that it IS supposed to set in further and that maybe my horn button is just too far out - making contact too soon. �I will know more after I get the wheel off. �A picture would be much appreciated if you have one already of the bigger horn rubber, but don't go to any trouble. � Thanks a lot.

By the way, found my calipers and put them on the nut.  Does 1 3/16 inch sound like the right socket?  I'll have to buy one and don't want to make two trips.

[athawk11]

I can help a bit.  The nut is 1 1 /4".  Good luck on the removal.  I have heard horror stories.

Tim

[Carls_jeep]

All I can take a photo of is the smaller button so I don't guess that will help you.

[Gunslinger]

I'd take some time and either build a wheel puller or rent borrow or steal one.  There is a special tool for pulling the steering wheel and it works really well. I had one that was stuck hard and the wheel puller took it off with no damage to the wheel or threads.  If you have time, I'd do the research to find a good tool for this job.  Otherwise just buy a new wheel and use the gas axe on the one you have, it'll save you time and frustration.

[RussellL]

If the only reason you are pulling the wheel is to change the drive position, you could shift that by adjusting the tie rods slightly at the front wheels.  Turn each tie rod in the same direction slightly and the straight position of the steering wheel will move to compensate.  

[Carls_jeep]

The problem of doing that is the steering box will not be centered. To set the steering you turn the steering wheel from one side to the other and count the turns. Then divide that in half and turn the wheel back to center. Now you pull the steering wheel and put it on as centered as you can get it.

Now set the toe in to specs.

Then you have to drive the Jeep and see where the steering wheel wants to be when driving straight. Go back to the shop and turn each tie rod equally until the steering wheel is centered and then test drive it again. It may take a few test drives to get it just where you want it but you will have fun driving the Jeep so it don't really matter how many test drives it takes.

[RussellL]

You are correct, the proper proceedure would be to test the current setup to see if it is currently centered in the gear box before trying to pull the steering wheel off.  I would think, however that it is just as likely that the wheel is off center because the tie rods are not adjusted properly rather than the steering wheel is not set straight on its shaft.   On the other hand, shifting the wheel from 11 oclock to 12 oclock is such a small adjustment that it will hardly make any difference to the steering box centering.    Personally I would rather give up a few degrees of wheel centering rather than spend $100+ for a new steering wheel.  I guess it depends on your budget and how much of a perfectionist you are.  

[Gunslinger]

You guys probably have a better handle on this than me, but my understanding is that the worm drive has a high spot that has to be centered over the tension adjuster bolt, this is the point where the steerng gears are centered.  It should be from here that all adjustments to the steering are made. Whether for the steering wheel, or tie rods, if the worm gear is not centered there will always be additional play in the system and problems with driveability.  My 2 Cents.

[aboyandhisdog]

Todd, I read that too re: the worm gear high spot, but I have not been able to easily detect it by feel.  Wouldn't Carl's method above put the gear right in the proper position from which all other adjustments should be made?

When it comes right down to it, I was not able to remove my steering wheel.  I tried to rig up a gear puller with a chain - a real Rube Goldberg set up and couldn't budge it.  I am not willing to harm my wheel, so for now - until I can find the proper tool, I will just be happy with it as is.  I emailed Walcks that they should show people how to do this in one of their blogs...or, sell the tool.

Thanks for all your help!

[BMIC]

TOM, LOOK BACK TO "STEERING TUBE" (MATTIO 08/03/11), ROCKETEER AND MATTIO HAVE PICTURES OF SOME PRETTY SIMPLE RIGS FOR PULLING STEERING WHEELS. I FOUND THEM THE MONDAY AFTER I DESTROYED MY WHEEL TRYING TO REMOVE IT... MOTTO: THE ANSWER IS IN THIS FORUM SOMEWHERE.

[aboyandhisdog]

You know...I like the idea of using a small jack in place of the gear puller.  With the gear puller, I had a problem with it "walking" off of center and almost destroyed my horn button.  I may give it a shot again with the jack.  Thanks for the post.