Re-Wiring project

[KevinTye]

I am going to replace all the wiring in my 1951 CJ-3A, as it is very eroded. I found a wiring harness (link below) on kaiser-willys.com for $300, does anybody know where I can find it for a better price? I looked on napa and oreiley's but didn't see a complete harness.

Anybody that has done this before have any suggestions or tips?


http://www.kaiserwillys.com/product/1642/willys-jeep-electrical-wiring-harnesses-parts-accessories

[F Bill]

Depending on your skill levels, it is possible to make your own, using wiring diagrams found on the web and using your old harness as a pattern.  Using modern automotive wire and quality crimp ends with a proper tool. you can make a harness that functions every bit as good as the bought ones. HOWEVER...if you are looking for original appearance of the wires and ends, you will be $ ahead purchasing one already made. Walcks makes their own altho 3A harnesses are not on the website. I'd give them a call and see if they can help ..
 
Vintage wiring of Maine is also another great harness supplier. NOT CHEAP but really good stuff. Again, they do not list a price for the 3A on their website but they do mention it at least. Another place to call.  
 
KW isn't really that high on theirs, and the only harnesses you might find at Oreillys or Napa will be universal fit like the Painless Wiring ones..
 
As far as installation hints, pop your gages out and work thru the holes, If you take your seats out and lay some carpet down on your tub floor it might make things easier on you...Some folks like to wire the bare tub while it is standing up on the tailgate. My own jeeps were wired one wire at a time, I made a 3 x 4  foot diagram copying the ones on the net.By the time I had drawn up the diagram I had half a clue on wiring the jeep.  Pulled the old wires, then ran the new ones, crimped on new ends, and installed them on their terminals.  The nice thing about wiring in place is you can get the perfect length for each wire and make them pretty neat when you are done.

If you do your own harness get real wire wrap tape, don't use plain old electrical tape to wrap them with as it will make a sticky mess a few months down the road when it gets hot in TX.....
 

[Gunslinger]

One trick I learned was to take a large piece of cardboard and replicate your dash, cut the holes in all the right places and write down what goes in that hole.  Then you can put the gages in the cardboard and wire the whole shootin match right in the comfort of your own air conditioned basement, on a bench.  Label the wires as you go, wrap them the right way and when your done you can take it out to the jeep and pretty much just wire it right in.  Nice and neat.
Todd

[calvinhunt]

I found a wiring harness (link below) on kaiser-willys.com for $300, does anybody know where I can find it for a better price?

I got mine from eBay. �Right now there is one listed for $236 with free shipping. I found it by searching "willys jeep wiring harness". �However, now that I've found one, it's Item Number 350402569298. Check it out. �

[athawk11]

I bought the complete CJ3A wire harness with turn signals from Walcks.  I am very impressed with it.   I paid about $235.00 with turn signals and keyed ignition switch. There is no shipping charge for orders over $150.00.  They even made me extra wire runs for my Harrison heater and an electric fuel pump.  (Not using the electric fuel pump anymore, but I was going to initially.)  

It is actually quite beautiful.  The multiple colored cloth wiring with tracers look really cool.   The tar coated sheathing, wire ends,  connectors, body clips, and headlight connectors were all included.   I am just starting to install it.  

I emailed all of my particulars (heater, 12v conversion, generator, not alternator, no foot start, electric pump, etc, then called them and discussed any specifics.  It was a good experience.  

Tim  

[calvinhunt]

Carl Walck's X 2.  

Thanks Tim,

I'd rather buy from a reputable source than an unknown on eBay any day!

[KevinTye]

Great, thank y'all.

On that note, should I go with the 12v conversion or is it going to force me to replace a lot of other stuff?

[F Bill]

Lets see.. New alternator,horn, lights, wiper motors if electric, resistor to run gages or new gages, turn signal flasher, coil and condensor.....but chances are most of that stuff is gonna be new anyway....just buy it all in 12Volt. And starter, of course. (You can get away with a 6V starter but don't crank it long...and 12 V on a 6V starter is hard on the drive and flywheel.

[Gunslinger]

I updated to twelve volts becuase my Generator was shot, it cost me about $100.00 bucks for the new single wire alternator, I figured that was a sunk cost anyway as the rebuild on the Genny would be a couple hundered, new 12 volt head lights, the old ones were dead anyway, new coil with built in resistor, that was less than 20 bucks, the gages were shot so I need new ones any way, horn is no problem as you only toot it a little, the starter will be OK until you need to rebuild it, it does turn faster and wears the ring gear faster, but I took mine out and checked it over about two years after the conversion and its fine.  So bottom line is its not too expensive if you time it right, in conjunction with other stuff you have to do anyway,

Gunslinger

[F Bill]

Shop around on that one wire alternator.....I bought a used one online from a guy who was going back to 6V on his MB, then found a reman with warranty for less than the used one. If you have a pick a part near you you might even find one for dirt cheap.   You will need to make your own bracketry, if you have a way to saw, bend, and weld steel it isn't too hard to make your own.

There are kits online to do all the parts fabbing and hunting for you but you pay dearly for the convenience. There are also many sites that tell you how to do the conversion, including a lot of tractor sites....Do your homework and you will save time and money.

[gsitts]

Hi, I'm in the middle of rewiring my new tub and am doing it wire by wire I've done this many times and I build electrical panels for a living so it not that hard for me.  For those who might be so inclined here are a  couple of tips. 1) make a copy of your dwg and mark each wire with a highliter as you put it in. 2) get a good crimping tool and use it properly. In my business I see a lot of wire not crimped correctly. Correctly means A) Stripped properly not nicked of cut up with a knife. B) Stripped the proper length to have the wire protruding slightly from the crimp. C) Insulation in the cup end but not in the crimp area. D) Not crimped until the wire is cut through. And finally After crimping pull on the wire to see how you did.
I hope this is helpful
Gordon