FRAME OFF RESTORE - WHATS NEXT

[jeffb]

I got the tub off my frame on the 51 I'm working on.  Went well.  Working on getting the motor unstuck.  Plan to drop the transmission/transfer case and begin frame clean up and paint, new brakes, etc.  Anything special you would suggest to do to the tranny and transfer case?  Thanks in advance.  jeffb in sd

[F Bill]

As long as you are this far find the online tutorials on how to rebuild them and go thru both of them. Use quality parts, stay away from Crown shafts and gears, and do it ONCE.

[athawk11]

I second Bills answer.  I didn't tear mine down completely.  Someone prior to me had worked on them before.  The transmission and transfer case worked perfectly before I took the Willys apart, but is did leak almost everywhere.  I opened them up, inspected the shafts and gears for wear (none found), cleaned all surfaces, replaced all the gaskets and seals, then put it back together and painted.  I did replace the clutch while I had the transmission off.

Bottom line, do what Bill suggests.  The online information is incredibly detailed and free.  I got lucky and didn't have to go in too deep.  Hopefully, mine still works.  I haven't driven it for a year.  Tub is back on and I plan on taking it for a test spin this weekend.

Tim

[dluyk]

where do you find the on line tutorials?

[athawk11]

Here is an example of the information available online. �This is a T90 rebuild guide. �I studied this in antisipation of having to do some work. �

http://www.willystech.com/wt/T90RebuildGuide/T90rebuild.htm

Tim

[calvinhunt]

Here's another great transmission rebuild resource:
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/t90_rebuild.htm

[Carls_jeep]

Did you drive your Jeep before you tore it down? If you did and the tranny and transfer cases shifted correctly I would only clean them up and flush them out. If you buy any parts be SURE they are NOS or made in the USA. You don't want to use any Asian made parts PERIOD.

Ask Calvin about using Asian tranny parts, he helped steer me away from them.

[jeffb]

Thanks for all the posts guys - they are very helpful.  The motor is stuck so didn't have opportunity to drive.  At the minimum I will do as you suggest, clean and flush, replace gaskets.  Assume it would be a good time to replace the clutch and throw out bearing?  I'm not certain what to look for on the pressure plates for wear, etc.  Everything looks good.  Worse wear was on the bracket that attachs to the throw out bearing.  Thanks again.  jeffb in sd

[F Bill]

Look for wear on the surface that contacts the disk....grooving or raised ridges where the disc didn't ride are a definite replacement que.

Actually most guys just go and put a new clutch disk and pressure plate and throwout bearing and pilot bearing in so they won't have to redo them down the road...If you have a good mechanic friend or an auto shop teacher you  can ask to give the parts a second look you might be able to save a little money if that is your goal. I have reused clutches that look good and sometimes I haave paid for it. I NEVER reuse the release bearings anymore. I really hate that noise a bad one makes, almost as much as I hate redoing a clutch after a week.

The wear on the bearing retainer where the throwout bearing rides is troubling....you might want to loo into replacing that as it may cause engagement  problems...Once you get your picture posting down, post some clear close up pictures...

Pay attention to the direction the clutch plate installs...Do it backwards and the clutch will not disengage. Also pay attention to all the linkage and pedal machinery, and the cable . Free up any adjusting nuts, and install that clutch fork and cable before you attach the bellhousing.( Or find a talented person with smallhands to do it later..)