Finishing the rear axle

[mrman5917]

I've just about completed my rear axle work (aside from the brakes). However, I'm wondering what the proper seal would be on the differential cover. A previous owner had at some point opened the cover and replaced whatever seal was there with some orange non-hardening latex(?) seal. It seems to have kept very well, but I'm wondering if there is a better or more "standard" way of doing it, or if that's what I should use when I finish my painting on the cover?

Also, what is the best way to remove the old hot rivets holding the outriggers and such onto the frame. I tried drilling and that was less than optimal. The die cutter also was less than great given the lack of room. I imagine an air hammer and chisel would do the trick?

[calvinhunt]

Gaskets are readily available from any of the Willys suppliers for the rear end covers. �I just used the Permatex on the available gaskets to attach them to the covers. �Nothing on the pumpkins. �Sealed great. �

As far as drilling off the outriggers (I stated in an earlier post that I had to remove and relocate many of my outriggers to align with the MD Juan repro tub). �I drilled the center of the head with an 1/8 inch drill bit just through the head only. �I followed that with a 3/8 inch drill bit just to the same depth (the 1/8 inch pilot hole made it much easier to drill the full size 3/8 inch). �At that point I used a chisel and hammer to remove the head. �With both heads removed the outrigger could be pulled off. �There was a little of the rivet shank still protruding from the frame. �Then I just took a stone grinder and smoothed up the shank flush with the frame and that plugged the hole. �When a rivet is installed it is swelled into the hole and stays there till it is mechanically removed.

In the photo below you can see that the plugging of the hole isn't as perfect as I indicate in the above paragraph. �However, to me it is still better than another hole in the frame. �You can see that I drilled a little too far with the 1/8 inch drill bit (but that hole is just in the old rivet shank). �You can also see in the center of the upper left hole of the outrigger I started to drill a hole in the frame. �This was the first installation of the four outriggers I relocated. At first I thought I would install four bolts. �Then I changed my mind and just went with two like the rivets. I drilled the hole in the frame for the bolts of the relocated outrigger by using a drill bushing and the same 1/8 inch drill bit. �Then I followed that with the full-sized 3/8 inch drill bit. �



In the next photo you can see that back side of the above. �It shows the two upset heads of the rivets still in place.

[mrman5917]

Thanks Calvin. I think I'll pop the ends of the rivets, remove the outriggers, and smooth everything out just in case I end up having to move them around if I end up with a new tub that needs some "help" fitting. What a great idea to use the rivets that are already there

[mrman5917]

Just realized that bolting up the axle is only part of finishing it. I still need axle oil!

Looking in the service book, it says MIL-L-2105B SAE 80. I haven't gone to look at what options I have at the auto parts store, but I don't know if going in with a MIL spec oil will really get me anywhere.

So, what do you all use in your axles?

[Gunslinger]

I bought an 80-90 gear oil from Tractor Supply, it was the only place that I could find a heavy mineral based oil.  At one point I had a shop put in their standard gear oil, however it was a synthetic, and it leaked out just about everywhere.  When I thalked to them about the leaks they responded that the Willys gaskets and seals were such old technology that modern synthetics were just to light to effectively seal.  That took me on a search to find a heavy mineral base oil.  And it just so happens that there are enough 1940-50 tractors still in operation that Tractor supply carries it.  It did seem to minimize the leaks.