Re: Oil filter hose fitting ?

[Carls_jeep]

I'm sure if you call Walck's and tell them what you have they can supply the correct parts to you.

[bayo500]

Can any one tell me if the oil filter housing has an elbow underneath, please.

[bayo500]

I checked their web site and the shipping quote to Australia was $72.00 for a small item ?  i think the shipping calculator might be on the blink...

[mud pie]

Can any one tell me if the oil filter housing has an elbow underneath, please.

It's a brass fitting with a 45 degree angle. Some of the older auto parts stores should have it, it seems the newer stores don't stock brass fittings anymore.

[bayo500]

 45 deg, thanks mud pie, I didn't want to order hoses and find out i need something else, Steve.

[rocketeer]

What happened to the original post?

Larry

[Carls_jeep]

It's kind of strange. I saw his post and replied and left the site. When I came back my post was first and his opening post was second. I kind of blinked and thought, man, never seen that happen before.

Weird huh.

[calvinhunt]

bayo500,
I won't be back home to get a photo of my installation for more than a week, but I chose to use steel tubing or steel brake lines.  It works because there is no relative motion between the oil filter housing and the engine. I used steel tubing (prefabricated brake line with fittings already on each end.  Just purchase a tubing that is the right length and using a tubing bender, bend it to fit your installation.  It worked greatfor me.  If you could do the same, that would be cheaper and no shipping. I used a grommett to support the steel tubing where it passed through the oil filter mount on top of the engine.  If you're  a  purist then you know this is not the original way.  However, I trust the steel tubing better than the rubber hose.

[jamesr]

Calvin,  No wear marks or rub marks on it?  Been over a year since you got yours up and running like that?  My inlet hose is a little long by 1", and the outlet just barley clears the alternator mounting bracket.  Bending brake line would solve both problems.  What about vibration?  Jim

[rocketeer]

Vibration is a concern which is why they were originally rubber lines. In fact, vibration is such an issue that cracked oil filter housing mounts are not uncommon (see pic). I opted for what was there originally but I would caution against using the foreign made hoses. Walcks has excellent replacements that don't dry out and crack.



Larry

[bayo500]

Thanks , that's interesting about a solid pipe, makes me wonder about the original designers, maybe in extreme field trials this was a  problem. I'd like to see  C H's pipe photo though. I emailed " Walck's"  in the U.S. and the freight quote on the web site for overseas buyers is a site problem they are working on, email quotes about bits including freight is the way to go for us outside the USA. Oh by the way i dumped the first post and put in a short one cos the first one was to long winded...

[rocketeer]

PM sent.

Larry

[calvinhunt]

bayo500,
 ï¿½Larry makes a good point about vibration. �He has a lot of experience, knowledge and resources (and the members of the CJ-3A page benefit from that). �
 ï¿½I actually purchased new hoses for the oil filter application during my restoration. �But I disliked the looks of them (very poor quality) so I chose to go with the pre-flared brake lines (steel tubing) that were available at NAPA. �The ends were double-flared with the fittings installed. �All I had to do is bend them with my tubing bender to make them fit perfectly. �As a retired aircraft mechanic I had learned that airplane manufactures always used steel tubing to run oil, fuel, and hydraulic lines where there was not relative motion between the components being supplied by such lines. �So, it was just a natural thing for me to do (habbit is a forceful master). �Now that I have two years and 2,000 miles on my Jeep I think I will start periodically inspecting the oil lines for cracks. �I would think that if a crack occurred it would be at one of the flares. �That's the only place I've ever seen a cracked service line in my aviation experience. �They probably won't be prone to cracking any worse that the fuel line bewteen the engine-driven fuel pump and the carburetor. �I really expect, however, that with the number of miles I will drive my Jeep over the coming years, the steel lines will endure the vibration better than the rubber hoses would endure the years of aging. �
�When I first started my restoration project I purchased the least expensive parts I could find. �It didn't take long to find that wasn't the way to go. �Before I was finished I had learned that it's truly worth the price to find the best parts available and just pay the price. �By then I had already routed the steel lines to my oil filter and chose to leave it that way. I'll post a couple of pics when I get back home. �I think they are already on my home computer. �If not, I'll take a couple and post them. �I'll be back home Sat 12th. �
    If you do choose to use the pre-fabricated steel tubing you must make certain that you do not have any preload as you install it.  In other words, shape the line to meet the mating fitting at each end without having a load on it to pull it in place as you tighten the flare nut.  A preloaded line would be more likely to crack.

[danorte]

I too used steel line to replace the hose and it fractured within 4 hours of use. Went back to rubber line. Not sure if I did preload adjust, however with oil flying everywhere under the hood a mile from the ranch made me change the hose. I do believe the vibration from the engine fractured it. I recommend the rubber hose. North

[Carls_jeep]

There was a good reason they used rubber hoses on the filters.