Exhaust Manifold Studs

[Brad Y.]

Hey all,
I am looking for some input on the best way to remove/replace exhaust manifold studs like the ones in the link below.

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/exhaust-manifold-to-block-stud-kit-8-piece-fits-41-71-jeep-willys-with-4-134-engine

I ask because when trying to remove the studs this weekend I had most of them break on me

I am hoping that maybe I can use some heat (torch) and tap them with a hammer to break them loose in order to replace them.

Does anyone else have any great ideas for how to remove broken off studs?

[1955CJ-5]

There is a method where you weld a nut of appropriate size to the stud stub.

This is easier if the engine is on a stand...and you need a welder

You hold the nut in place and (I used a mig welder) start the weld on the stud, take your time using circular motion fill the threaded center of the nut and at the same time attaching it to the remaining stud...you can do this even if the stud is broken off flush. Use plenty of heat.

Let it cool a little then use a wrench on the nut to loosen the stud. Sometimes a rattle gun on low is better than a wrench.

It may not work the first try, some of the head studs I removed this way required three or four tries, but it eventually worked.

I'll post pics if i can find them..

can't find the pics, but this gives you the idea..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRrz-cphBY4

Randy

[Rus Curtis]

This isn't going to help now but, I stop after breaking one.  Figure out what to do before proceeding.  I've even used an extractor and broke that off too - in the drilled out stud.

Heat is always helpful.  Using penetrant along with heat can get the hole and stud to expand/contract at different rates allowing the penetrant to wick down the threads.

At the time, I didn't own a torch or a welder (FWIW, I still don't).  So, what I did was take the block to a machine shop and let them remove the studs.  That was real easy.

I did have a problem removing the shackles off my Bantam trailer and used an impact wrench and a lot of penetrant! The hammering helps.

I've also learned that working both ways (both loosening and tightening a nudge to get movement) helps to loosen threads.  I think this allows the penetrant to work deeper into the threads.

[Brad Y.]

Thanks for the great input. I will see what I can do to get these off.

I just saw another video with the same welding a washer and nut to the broken stud technique. I am hoping that will work for me when I get my welder.

I tried to use penetrating spray for the last three weeks but it apparently was too corroded to get in far enough...should have tried heat though before going to the next one.  I also didn't think to use my impact figured it would actually be worse but apparently it couldn't have been any worse...

[1955CJ-5]

I've read that a 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF makes a good penetrating lube for breaking free rusted bolts/studs/etc.

I've never used it, but maybe i wouldn't have broken so many head studs if I had given it a try.

I like AeroKroil but it's kind of expensive.

Some times all you need to do is sneeze on them and they snap off....

[athawk11]

On the previously broken stud, the heat created from welding on the nut is often enough to break the bond between the stud and the block.  I've also had success with an impact as mentioned above.  Setting a pneumatic wrench to "low" can be just enough of a jolt to not snap the stud, but still break the bond.

Heat, prior to an attempted removal is always a good recommendation.

One other option I've been wanting to try is that Freeze Off product by CRC.  Some folks have raved about it.  I bought a can to try on a seized distributor, but haven't had time to use it.