Hawk's CJ3A 13655

[athawk11]

On my green Willys, I found that the biggest learning curve for me was the welding and hammer/dolly work.

On welding, I was either too hot (burn a hole) or too cold (no penetration).  Dialing in on that skill had me replacing much of the work I had done.

The other challenge was the hammer/dolly work.  I tended to grow impatient.  The hammer blows grew more powerful.   But in the end, that helped me learn how to shrink metal.

 
These days, I find hammer/dolly work to be 'therapeutic'.  I can pound away all day long, then wonder where the time went. 

Tim

[CJPilot]

Tim

It looks just great. After seeing what you've done I think I should have another look at my original tub.� �;D.

Can you share your method for shrinking metal.� I've made a very lame attempt at times and always given up.

Steve

[athawk11]

Steve,
Thanks for looking in.

I shrink metal with a torch, a bucket of water, and a rag.

Initially, I used a little LP plumbers torch. It took a while to heat up, so I eventually switched to an acetylene set up.

I hold the heat in one small area (about the size of a dime) until the metal glows orange.  I quickly grab the soaking wet rag and put it on the spot.  You will often feel the metal contract under your hand.  I will then lightly hammer/dolly the spot to smooth and flatten it while the metal is still a little warm.

This is where the 'skill development' comes into play.   Depending on how large an area you need to shrink, you may be done, or you may need to continue with the heat-n-shrink-hammer-n-dolly process.  If the area is large, I start in the middle with the heat-n-shrink.  I will continue this process, spiraling outward, until I am satisfied it's flat and smooth with no more puckers (oil canning). The distance between the spots you heat up can vary based on the amount of metal that needs to be shrunk, but generally my heat spots are about 1" to 1 1/2" apart.  I sometimes need to go back into the middle of my spiral and 'hit' certain areas again. 

Over shrinking is possible.  If you go too far, you can easily hammer-n-dolly it out a bit.

Hopefully this makes sense.

Tim

[1955CJ-5]

Tim,

Thanks for the explanation...I've tried it with a small bernzomatic type torch with little success. Then I tried a MAP torch, and that works a little better...but, maybe I need to try an acetylene torch? I think the MAP gets pretty hot but the flame is pretty widely dispersed.  And, from your description, I'm not getting it hot enough.

Some of the forums suggest using dry ice as the cooling source, but I've been using the wet rag as you suggest.

Of course I don't have an acetylene set-up.....maybe there is a pin-point tip for the MAP torch...

Randy

[athawk11]

Hi Randy,
I found a pin point torch at Ace Hardware, but I'm sure there are other suppliers.  That was one of the keys when I was still using the small torch...a very direct, undispersed flame.  Otherwise, you're sitting there for what seems likes eternity.

The acetylene set up is very fast.  I learned quickly that I have to be careful.  I burned a couple holes right through on my first few attempts.

Tim

[athawk11]

It's been a while since I offered any updates. The tub is still the priority. 

I have one wheel house from the 2A tub and one from the original 3A that are usable.  I will need to modify the 2A wheel house. Both the length and the angles at the front will need to be adjusted...









Just like everyone that takes on a tub, the front panels below the cowl are a mess.  I will need to perform more surgery...












Time to make the floor pans.  I used 16 gauge for these...

To bend the flanges, I used a couple heavy pieces of angle bolted together with the panel sqeezed in between.  I then heated the metal and used a hammer to bend then into shape...









Time to shape them to the existing tranny hump.  I clamped them in postion, traced, cut, then welded them up...







OOPs.  Forgot.  Prior to welding the pans, I needed to properly position the hat channels.  This kit requires assembly.  I put the tub on the frame, then aligned the channels to the frame mounting holes and the tub...





I clamped the channel pieces together, then welded them up...





Once they were welded, I put the tub back on, then positioned the channels...




I marked the channel position, then primered them and the underside of the tub where the channels will be welded.  I put some effort into taping off the weld points.  I've used this approach before.  I don't know if it will help the tub last longer.  I doubt I will be around to find out...








Time for a lot of plug welding...





Turned out pretty nice...





I'm now in a postion to 'assemble' all the tub pieces. Stay tuned...

Tim

[Quebec Jeep]

Wow! Amazing. I wish to have your talent in body work. Great job.

[1955CJ-5]

Hey Tim,� REALLY nice!

I've wondered why you have been so quiet...

[gmcjr]

WOW!!! Good work! You da man, da body man that is!!!!

[athawk11]

With the new hat channels and front floors done, it was time to assemble the major tub components.

The order of assembly ended up being fairly self-explanatory.  I worked from the inside-out.

First on, the floor riser.

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I bolted this to the chassis to keep everything in alignment.  Measuring, adjusting, then measuring and adjusting again, to make sure this tub will bolt up the way it should when complete.

Next, I did a sub assembly.  The wheel houses were welded to the rear floor.  This may seem a bit odd, but this approach made it very easy to weld while keeping it aligned and square.

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Once this was together, my wife helped me put it on the chassis.

Next, the rear panels.  These will help to keep things squared up and aligned with the chassis mounting positions.

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At this point, the wheel house bracing made the most sense to install.  Again, measure-align-measure-square-align.

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The tailgate surround and valance were to come next. This will be the final chance to make sure the tub will fit right on the chassis. I don't want to overstate it, but I put a ridiculous amount of effort into measuring and aligning as I moved forward in this assembly process.

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Side panels.  This is where my heart started to race.  I was excited to see the tub in one piece again, but at the same time, if I made a mistake at some other point, these panels were not going to fit right.  Once I put them in place, all my fears went away.  They slid right together as they should.

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So, just a quick flashback

What I started with

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What I have now...

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I found a set of 3A seats on Ebay.  I needed to mock them up so I could weld on the captive nuts on the underside of the tub.

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UPS showed up with my repro tailgate.  I had one, but it was in such bad condition, I decided to treat myself to a new one.  It's really starting to look like a real Willys again.

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 I have a few small additions I still need to add, like seat supports on the front of the wheel houses, top bow brackets for the top of the wheel houses, tank strap brackets, front panel to rear panel gussets, etc, but the big assembly is complete.

I now have to work on the toolbox.  I'm not starting with the prettiest box, but Lee from the great northern state of Minnesota has been helping me out with this portion of my challenge.  Thanks Lee!!!

Tim

[1955CJ-5]

I just don't know how it could be any better....excellent work...!

[Ryan_M]

Truly amazing work Tim. You are really taking this project "to the next level".

[athawk11]

Thanks to everyone for taking a look.  I really appreciate the encouraging words. 

I'm surprised it's gone as well as it has.  And yet, I'm surprised how long it's taken.  (Three months worth of spare time.)  I don't think this one will be ready for the Colorado Fall Colors Tour in September.   I was hoping to bring this one for my wife to torture, while I just enjoyed the trails in my OD Willys. 

Tim 

[BMIC]

Great work Tim, keep it coming....

[gmcjr]

I'm envious! I wish I had half the patience you seem to for that kind detailed work.