US Navy CJ3A

[Roger]

Hmmm... just got off the phone with the Transmission shop.  I had dropped off the trans, transfer case, OD, and PTO unit with them and the verdict was not real positive.  The previous owner had commented that the Jeep didn't leak a drop  :-/  Finding more evidence of why... it was dry

So, the Dualmatic OD is toast.  The unit had been run without oil and nothing salvageable. He found bad bearings and seals in the Koenig PTO but repairable.  The transfer case gears were toast... and the transmission he has not gone all of the way through but sounds like many of those gears are needing replacement and he is not sure about the input, output, and countershafts yet.  Based on what he has found so far, the OD unit is not repairable and he had commented that a new Saturn OD may work but he is not sure about how the PTO would connect to it.  New sounds expensive... about $1200.  Warn OD units... sounds like you can find parts for them... are there still good rebuildable ones out there?  Will the PTO connect to the Saturn OD?  Thoughts? Input from those smarter than I is always appreciated.  I will try to stop by the shop and get pictures... curious to see how bad this is.

[Roger]

Okay Jeep gurus.... what are my options?  I have made some progress since my last update... this work thing really gets in the way of shop time.  Put the front differential back under the frame, bolted the tie rods on and I wondered why the passenger side was not tightening.  The machined taper from the tie rod end protruded above the steering arm    My first hope was that they tie rods were just made poorly and so I ordered another one and it had the same problem.  That looks to mean that either the hole in the arm was worn or actually enlarged at some time in its life.  The drive side tightened up but the hole for the cotter pin was above the castle nut    SOOOOooo... I don't remember the old ones being loose and REALY DONT want to replace the knuckle assembly.  What are my options???  Is there an oversized cross application that would fit?  Do they make shimstock anymore that could be used to tighten things up??  Help  :-/    Picture of the cleaned up Warn hubs... and first scratch on the wheels.

[Bob W]

Try installing a flat washer under the nut.

[athawk11]

Roger,
If you don't mind me asking...Who did you purchase the tie rod ends from?

Tim

[Roger]

Hi Tim,

The ones you see are from eBay Quarter Ton Military (QTM).  I did order a set from Ron Fitzpatrick (G503.com) and he delivered the same exact parts... with the same results on the trial fit.  So I am assuming that potentially the hole in the steering arm was massaged to fit the modified steering that was previously installed or just brutally worn.  I am a little concerned with the washer solution... which is a brilliantly simple fix, as that does change the relationship between the end of the tie rod and the bottom of the steering arm... less space for it to rotate.  I am exploring a shim stock solution using some hardened shim stock which should give me the stock install "depth" and should handle the wear.  Some of the other materials out there would likely fail.  But if someone has any better ideas I am all ears. :-?  The correct thing to do would be to replace the steering arm assembly which I would like to avoid... call me lazy.

[athawk11]

How about Grade-8 washers?

[Roger]

Here are a couple of pictures of my attempt at using shim stock.  Measured the slop at the approximate height and came up with a difference of approximately .035.  Trimmed the appropriate thickness shim stock, shaped and trial fit it.  The bottom part of it folds under to match the shape of the stud and keeps the shim from moving up or down.  The trial fit I think turned out nice.  Will take apart one more time to make sure everything is sitting where it needs to then back together for one last time.  Fix the other tie rod end and then time to attack the bell crank... new parts and something ain't right..  :-/

[athawk11]

Nice fix. 

[J.R._Welsh]

Nice Jeep and project. I have always had the thought of doing my jeep as a Navy jeep, maybe i'll get around to it some day.

[Roger]

The rumors of my death have been greatly exaggerated... or something like that

I have been tinkering little here and there on the Jeep but have been buried with work.  Will include a picture of my new toy (not really Jeep related  ) and progress but I need some HELP!!! 

When I drug the Jeep home it came with a single diaphragm fuel pump and someone used copper tubing for the oil line to the filter.  Fast forward to now... I plan to install the vacuum wipers and therefore went back to the way the engine should have been equipped with the dual diaphragm pump and the rubber line from the block to the filter.  Found me a nice vintage fuel/vacuum pump in good condition and rebuilt it.  The oil line connection is to the front port underneath the pump and that seems to be in sync with the pictures I have found.  I have a 90 degree brass fitting screwed into the block (pointing to about 11 o'clock), the rubber hose screwed in. When I put in the fuel pump, with spacer, the oil line is compressed between the motor plate and the fuel pump mounting boss.   :-?  Took it apart and no other orientation of that fitting will get the line to clear.  So... hey, why not try a 45 degree fitting and try snaking it through the window between the vacuum part of the pump and the mounting boss.  NOPE... the compression collar on the oil line interferes with the vacuum part of the pump.  Tried a bushing to move the 90 degree fitting out about 1/2".  That ran into the vacuum part of the pump!    I can't be the first person who has run into this...  Two options remaining that I can think of... the rubber line diameter is too large (0.550") or I go back to the single diaphragm pump... which I don't want to do.  Any folks smarter than I have any ideas???  I have include a top view, a view looking at the pump mounting bolt, and the oil line.  Are there variations in these pumps that would cause the problem???

[scoutpilot]

What is the exterior diameter of that hose? It looks like way too much. It doesn�t need to be 300 PSI. You�re going to be dealing with 60 PSI tops.

[Roger]

Calipers said an OD of 0.550". The original grommet in the oil filter bracket indicates the original line was much smaller. I think I have a second oil line in the cloth covering... Just need to remember where I put it. Wonder how many people are running around with a crimped oil line?? I think I bought this from QTM. What OD do others have on their rigs?
Totally agree with the pressure rating of the hose... was not given a choice 

[1955CJ-5]

I remember that being a very tight fit....I used a replacement set of hoses from one of the vendors. I'll get a measurement later if it will help....I'm sure it was smaller than your 1/2" line....

[Bob W]

I use oil hoses from Walcks. Good quality and they fit.

[Roger]

Is Walcks using Omix oil lines?