Author Topic: US Navy CJ3A (Read 23520 times)

Roger · « **Reply #15 on:** July 28, 2016, 10:44:05 PM »

Thanks Hawk! [smiley=thumbsup.gif] By the look of the holes in the frame I think it would be safe to say the front bumper was riveted... couple of the holes are not round anymore where the Victor Wrench was a little too happy. The only reason I bring up the difference on the front styles is that the parts places are selling a 3A and M38 bumpers as two different items and they have different holes. Flip the bumperette... which side is up then? Does the bumperette bolt to the frame or on either side of the frame? Hoping not the frame since I "riveted" the rear cross member on :-?

athawk11 · « **Reply #16 on:** July 28, 2016, 11:36:22 PM »

Roger · « **Reply #17 on:** July 29, 2016, 12:15:36 AM »

Picture is worth a thousand words... tails down. This makes it look like the bumperettes bolt to the frame? Is that a 3A cross member? The M38 cross member seems to not have the license plate slots and appears to have two holes on either side of the frame holes??? Awesome Jeep Hawk!

BTW... used to live north of you in Westminster... I was one of those glow in the dark Rocky Flats kind of guys

Wife wants to move back... me not so sure.

athawk11 · « **Reply #18 on:** July 29, 2016, 08:39:54 AM »

Hi Roger,
This is a 3A, so yes, a 3A cross member. The mounting holes are just to the side of the rivets that hold the cross member to the frame. They do not interfere with the bumberettes.

Rocky Flats...Did you work out there? I remember the protesters camping out at the Hwy 93 entrance. That place had an interesting history.

Hawk

Roger · « **Reply #19 on:** July 29, 2016, 09:16:44 PM »

Hawk... was out at RF from 92 to 95... lots of different ways to get killed out there. Great group of people to work with. Is the Cafï¿½ on 93 just outside the main gate still there? Great lunch but I think the last time I went by it was pretty run down.

Hoping to get the frame painted this weekend but it looks like one day will be spent in the office so I may just do some more prep work and work on painting some of the smaller stuff.

FYI... bought two of Bob W's books... one for me and one for my Dad

Roger

Roger · « **Reply #20 on:** August 08, 2016, 10:50:44 PM »

OK... spent the weekend sandblasting and detail painting... need to paint the frame this week before work sends me out of town for two weeks... part of which includes getting a kid to college.ï¿½ As with most folks, I am working on multiple parts of the jeep in parallel... one of those tasks is getting the engine ready to drop in to the frame... after painted blah blah blah.ï¿½ Question on one of those tasks... carburetor.ï¿½ In order to help save time and hoping to do a better job than I... my WO Carter was sent off to a company everyone is very familiar with for an exchange.ï¿½ It came back a couple of weeks later... and just turned out to be my old one but cleaned up and hopefully rebuiltï¿½

ï¿½ Keep in mind I am a Camaro guy pretending that I know something about Jeeps but some things are just not setting right and looking for a "you are worrying too much" or "that ain't right".ï¿½ Okay... number 1 on the list is that the description "put new bushings on wear parts".ï¿½ My take on that is new bushings for the throttle and choke shafts... if needed.ï¿½ First picture below shows (or attempts to) the gap between the choke shaft and the housing... lots of flop there.ï¿½ As can be seen in the second picture the shaft also appears worn.ï¿½ Wrong to expect this to be as good as new?ï¿½ Throttle shaft has a little slop but about what I would expects from a Holley or Quadrajet after time on a small block.ï¿½ Should the shafts be solid with no noticeable slop?ï¿½ Number 2 and the one that really bothered me was the fact that the screws for the throttle blade and the choke were not "crimped" to stop them from backing out... just waiting to drop into the engine.ï¿½ I was just going to put a drop of green Loctite on each.ï¿½ This can be seen in the second picture (plus more of the shaft gap).ï¿½ I am going to be reaching out to the vendor... they have been around for a while and don't expect problems but also don't want to be the Jeep Jerk with unreasonable expectationsï¿½

ï¿½ Thoughts or input? I can measure the shaft play but not sure what specs are.

scoutpilot · « **Reply #21 on:** August 09, 2016, 06:13:09 AM »

[size=12]With regards to choke shaft clearance in the housing. Bushings for this shaft are very nearly impossible to acquire. I have, and continue to search for suitably sized ones for holes that can be saved. So far, no joy. What usually wears faster is the shaft. Used/serviceable shafts are typically installed and new, reproduction replacements are available. The fact is, this is the choke and there would have to be substantial wear before it can be rendered inoperable. As to the plate screws, splitting the tips is no longer required due to the easy availability, and much easier to use, Loc-Tite products. I use the Blue to secure the screws I install. In order to remove split-tipped screws it is necessary to use a tool which, when improperly used, can damage both the shaft and the housing.
Next, were bushings installed in the throttle and was the shaft replaced?[/size][/b]

Roger · « **Reply #22 on:** August 10, 2016, 12:06:31 AM »

Scout... thanks for the feedback... still trying to learn

The throttle shaft bore has been bushed as you can see in the picture. Can't tell if the shaft has been replaced or not... everything was replated. Agree with the choke slop not being a huge impact to carb performance and good to know about the challenges with repairs to it.

As far as the screws I do not see any Loctite on them but also have not tested them... may do that and then put a drop on each for safe measure.

One last carb question... what is the proper orientation for the linkage between the carb and the block mounted throttle arm... both ends of the linkage towards the engine? Both away? Or one and one? Seems to fit both directions and always trying to error on the side of what they rolled out with

scoutpilot · « **Reply #23 on:** August 10, 2016, 06:31:18 AM »

[size=12]Iï¿½m not sure what you are asking regarding linkage orientation. Properly assembled and installed, both the choke and throttle linkage will be on the side of the head. Your photo shows basically the correct orientation.[/size][/b]

Roger · « **Reply #24 on:** August 10, 2016, 08:41:05 AM »

Sorry... was perfectly clear in my beanie brain

From the carb to the lever assembly bolted to the back of the engine block there is a skinny rod, one end bent and the other threaded with the return spring tab... this end is closer to the firewall. The question is... does the bent end of this skinny rod point towards the engine or point towards the carb? The threaded block end of the skinny rod... goes on the engine side of the lever assembly bolted to the back of the block or the fender side? I can post a picture after work if that will help. Right now I have it installed with both cotter keys on the engine side.

athawk11 · « **Reply #25 on:** August 10, 2016, 01:28:02 PM »

Hi Roger,

The threaded side toward the firewall...

The hook end at the linkage. You can kind of see it hereï¿½

Roger · « **Reply #26 on:** August 10, 2016, 10:26:55 PM »

Of course.... 50% chance of getting it right and I "chose poorly".

Easy enough to swap around. Appreciate the pics Hawk... No throttle cable??

Will need to bug you about vacuum lines one of these days... My engine had the standard fuel pump with the glass top but based on the manifold, age, and wipers, I think the vacuum/fuel pump combo is the correct application. Looks like pre-bent lines are not available so the custom one of a kind lines are needed. I have seen a couple different routings... :-?

Roger · « **Reply #27 on:** September 12, 2016, 11:28:13 PM »

Work has been keeping me busy on the road or just long days in the office but I finally painted the frame. After sandblasting it I went over it with an Eastwood After Blast surface conditioner (for lack of a better term) which helped protect the bare steel until I could throw some paint at it. Life in the Pacific NW means that the warm days are going to be harder and harder to find so I knew time was not on my side. Rather than make a mess in my shop I went to HF and bought a cheap carport and made my own paint booth with a little duct tape, cheap furnace filters, visqueen, and some old box fans. First layed down the epoxy primer that went down pretty nice and after letting that sit for an hour went ahead and sprayed the Eastwood Ceramic Chassis Satin Black. That one was a little tougher to spray than the epoxy... love the color and the finish but the fast flash time made it hard not to get dry spots... so I had to pick the surfaces that would be visible after assembly to make sure they went on wet. The three pictures below show the progress and the finished product. Ignore the paint sag on the passenger side front frame rail... one and only run of the day

At least the winch will help hide that. Dad has no idea I have taken the Jeep apart to this level

Question for those smarter than I... the cross member under the radiator appeared to be painted body color from the factory... the Cadet Gray extended beyond the grill opening. Are my archeological findings correct or should the cross member remain black? I have seen black on others and just looking for input.

Now to clean up front and rear diffs, get some paint on them and get them back under the frame. FYI... the rear differential was rebuilt by a local shop... PO had not bothered to put oil in it and all bearings and gears were toasted. He was very proud that the Jeep did not leak... BECAUSE THERE WAS NO OIL IN IT...

Front diff was fine. I will pull the drums off, check brakes, replace knuckle seals, and call it good.

Roger · « **Reply #28 on:** September 20, 2016, 11:58:05 PM »

Thought I would pull the front drums off to replace the wheel cylinders... wanted to make sure I replaced everything hydraulic just to be on the safe side... I knew I was tempting fate by opening things up but I charged ahead. After pulling the wheels off I noticed that the knuckles did not pivot freely, driver side would pop into center position... gone the smooth motion anticipated. Pulled it apart as you see in the picture below then I recalled the grease found in the center section so I went ahead and pulled it ALL apart. I was relieved to find that all of the bearings besides the pivot bearings were in great shape. Ring and pinion faces looked awesome... especially in comparison to the rear gears that had been run dry for who knows how long. New inner seals, new pinion seal, new wheel seals arrived today. Plan is to get it back together and painted this weekend. BTW, the date code on the axle tube is 11 26 52 A... which aligns with the 12/52 date on the Navy brass plate. Have not prepped the rear diff for paint but that was already rebuilt by a local shop.

Couple of questions: Front hubs are the Dualmatic... they need to be torn down and cleaned up. What should have been on there originally? Old school Warn better? Thoughts?

Bendix Joint... okay? clean up? replace? Both feel pretty tight. Thoughts? Initial reaction is to clean up and pop back in but if it is this far apart better to check those who have lived through it.

Should the spherical part of the knuckle be kept paint free or is a good coat of paint going to actually help maintain a good seal? It looks like it was not painted originally... is that correct?

1955CJ-5 · « **Reply #29 on:** September 21, 2016, 12:06:21 PM »

Just my experience...When I removed my bendix joints all the balls fell out and took off across the floor...

Since your's came out still assembled and if you feel they are pretty tight I'd just re-use them.

I left the ball part of the axle knuckle un-painted. The paint would just wear off and probably cause trouble...

Clean the balls up with some scotch brite and lightly lube them when you assemble the knuckle. The knuckle seals work pretty well..

My Willys 3A and 3B Community

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