And awaaaay we go! '49 3a refurb

[Cory]

Hello all!

I hope spring is finding you with ambition and weather to get back at it.

I picked up this '49 from Ryan_M last week.  Since, I've managed to get the stuck transfer and T90 out and divorced. 

Today I decided to tear into the T90 to see what I need to replace. 

The answer is, well most everything.  It is diffuse to see what is simply pitted by rust and what might be damaged. Here are pics of the cluster gear and the rear idler.   The rear bearing was goo but the front was stuck. 

I have come across an eBay seller going as "wcfr4" who seems to be selling a lot of NOS and USA made parts. He's at 99% approval rating with 44k buyers. Is this someone in the group or someone we know?

Otherwise, I'm considering the Novak master rebuild kit at $255 which seems to include most everything in the case.  They seem to have a good reputation amongst the Jeep community.

I'm looking forward to the collective input of the group during the project.  Stay tuned....


Cory

[RICKG]

wcfr4 is a cat named Matthew Fox, I have dealt with him in the past with no regrets. FWIW.

[Cory]

Thanks, RickG.  I appreciate the intel.

[Cory]

Whelp,  Novak's kit does not have everything that I need at the $255 price.  Silly me.  Walck's has the complete kit for slightly over $500.  But the description boasts that all I'd need to supply is my case and shifter (and labor, grease, etc).

Hmmm....

[1955CJ-5]

wcfr4 is a cat named Matthew Fox, I have dealt with him in the past with no regrets. FWIW.

I had exactly the opposite experience, and will not deal with him again...

[Ryan_M]

I've been hit or miss with wcfr4. Some big hits and some huge misses.

I still think if you are patient enough you can find a workable T90 somewhere and then just buy the parts you absolutely need for it. With that said, having everything arrive at your house in one neat little package in a matter of days after a few short mouse clicks is pretty appealing if you are willing to plunk the money for it.

[Cory]

Well, I'm back at it. I scored s great deal on a working takeout of a complete transmission and transfer case for $225. Much better than the units I had.  I'll give them a good once over soon.

The afternoon was spent taking the tub off with the aid of pulleys and a come along. Managed to yo it by myself. Had a bugger of a time trying to figure out the steering column. Thankfully there's this and other forums that I can browse.   In messing with the steering box, a fair amount of water drained from it. I guess that's going on the to-do list as well.

All in all, an enjoyable and productive day!

[Ryan_M]

Good score on the trans/TC. How's that frame look now that you can take a close look at it? It looked pretty solid to me from what I could tell slithering around underneath. I still say that tub is a very workable project.

I like your temporary "crossmember" 

[Cory]

I am very impressed with the condition of the frame.  I'm going to pressure wash and clean it up.  What are people using for paint for their frames?

The tub isn't all that bad, really.  Just some badly done repairs in the past.  I've bought front floorboards from Walck's ($204 for the pair and free shipping) as well as replacement floorboard channels.

But before I tackle that, I think I'm going to work on the mechanical stuff while the tub is off and I can get my plus-sized body in and around everything.

[Cory]

So, I did a little intra-web-ernet browsing regarding paint for the frame of the 'Lil Willy and saw all sorts of gimmicks and promises from POR 15 (expensive and needs a topcoat to prevent browning in sunlight), to Eastwood products, to bed liner paint (belch), industrial floor paint, to rattle cans of underbody . You know what they say about opinions and *rear end...

Where I've finally landed, for economy and the reviews I've read, is Rustolem's heavy rust primer.� At $10/quart, I figured it was cheap enough to try it.

So, the frame is not heavily rusted.� And it was less so when I dug out the sand blaster to clean up the scale.� I gotta say, I like how it spreads on and it looks nice.� It is thick enough to fill in some pits too.� Best part is, Rustoleum makes a flat black�industrial paint at $41/gallon for topcoat.

I figure that the 3a is never going to be a trailer queen.� I just want to enjoy the crap out of it (I already am).�

Onward!

[BMIC]

Which is the best frame coating? Well I conducted my own highly sophisticated, science based test and determined that after 7 years of outside exposure to all the eliments and submerged under water for 8 months of the year, that POR-15 is at least as good as advertised.   
As Dam Keeper for the Little Sebago Lake Dam I was having a hard time reading the 75 year old rusted steel gauge. I decided to scrape it and paint it with the left over paint from my 3A frame job. After 7 years it looks as new as the day I painted it.

[Cory]

BMIC,

That is a great testament for POR 15.  You should score some free product!

[BMIC]

I could use it, trying to score my next project, an FC150 and it is expensive to buy. I would tell you where it is Cory but our friend from up north would be hitching up his red trailer as we speak trying to add to his Willy's empire. He is probably working the Willy's hot line right now.

[Cory]

 

Right!  All's fair in Willys and war?

[Ryan_M]

I'm gridding off the state right now. You better hurry up with your purchase.