1951 CJ3A in San Diego

[Kirkski]

Wow that vehicle is in great shape, congrats!

[toms52willys]

I have a 1952 and the radiator is mounted to the frame and I know of 3 or 4 others that are the same and all were built as APU jeeps for the Navy and Air Force. The question is why the older style mounting with later body serial numbers.Your frame probably does not have two mounting tabs on the back side of round frame tube.
Thanks Tom

[Bob W]

Bottom mount radiators had two options, standard cooling or heavy duty cooling. The heavy duty radiator has a much thicker core than standard cooling. There was no heavy duty radiator option with the later side mount version. Willys did provide the early heavy duty bottom mounted radiator later on for special orders, like government contracts. I'm sure they paid a premium for the heavy duty cooling radiators after regular production went to the side mount!

[Ironman51]

Tom - Correct my cross tube on the from does not have mounting brackets, except for the one directly in the middle. I don't believe that is for a bottom mount radiator though correct?

Did a little work today. Got the transmission, master cylinder, and some other various parts off the frame and gave a quick down and dirty cleaning with a scraper to get the major gunk off. The small shop is quickly filling up. Going to have to get creative to keep as much as I can indoors...

I also removed a trailer hitch deal that was on there. Not sure if it was originally a willys option or something. I'm thinking more than likely it was something that one of the previous owners, maybe even my grandpa, had put on, but I wasn't sure so I put a picture up of it below to see what people say. Any insight is appreciated.

JeepFever - There are also some more photos you wanted. The last two are from another tub my pop's has. But I believe it is a 2A. Seems to be the same as the 3A though.

[Ironman51]

.

[Ironman51]

Quick question, especially for anyone who has used MasterSeries products. I am trying to determine how much of their silver primer and AG111 to buy. I have seen some threads where people have used it and I was originally thinking 2 quarts of the primer and 1 quart of the AG111 satin black. But now I am sort of leaning towards getting 3 quarts of primer and 2 of the topcoat to be on the safe side. That should definitely cover it correct? The plan is 2 coats of silver primer and 1 coat of AG111 as their website suggests. Going to be doing most all of the chassis components in it. Frame, springs, differentials, steering components, brakes, etc.

[athawk11]

The draw bar is an original Willys accessory.  It's in really nice shape.

I used Masterseries Silver and AG 111 on my current project.  Same components as you.

1.25 quarts of the Silver.
1.75 quarts of the AG 111.

I brushed both.

I used The Silver on every component of my first project.  Frame, sheet metal, engine...everything.  I sprayed most of it.  It required 1.25 gallons.

Tim

[Ironman51]

Thanks Tim! Glad to hear about the drawbar. Sounds like you are a fan of the master series products if you used them again on your second project. So 2 quarts of each should do it then. I also plan on brushing it on. Did you also use the Master Series Metal Prep and Rust remover for during your prepping process? My plan of attack is media blast, scuff surface with 220 sand paper, then use the MasterSeries Metal Prep and Rust Remover as described on their website. Just wasn't sure if this was overkill if I am going to be media blasting.

[toms52willys]

Thanks Bob W. for the clarification on the radiator mounting 

[JeepFever]

Thanks for the photos.   That tub is SO nice!  (the yellow one.  )

All these years fooling with cars/Jeeps,  I don't recall seeing a tranny/bellhousing mounted on engine stand.     I will be using that idea for sure.  Even if just for cleaning/painting.

[athawk11]

Iron,
I am a fan of these products.  I didn't use the Rust Remover or the Metal Prep.  For me, sand blasting seemed to eliminate the need for these added steps.

 I haven't had long term experience with the  AG 111, so we will both have to rate it down the road a few years.  I chose the Satin finish.  I like the lower sheen on an old Willys. 

The Silver is another story.  Everything they claim has been verified with my experience.  5 years since first used.  No rust.  None.  I do live in a dry climate, but we have done a fair amount of muddy wet trails and river crossings at the FCT and BHR gatherings.  I think you'll be happy with these products.

Tim

[squidtone]

Hi Ironman 51,
Really nice. It's cool to see a Jeep in such good shape!

I would also cast a favorable vote for the Masterseries primer. I have used it on a few projects, and I've always brushed it on.
I will say this however: If you use foam brushes, the tendency is for the primer to go on really thin...it spreads out real easy. If it goes on that thin, you can get rust through after a time. If you use a bristle brush, it's way easier to get it on thicker, with a drastic reduction in later rust through.
However, putting it on sorta thick with a bristle brush yields brush stroke marks, sometimes kinda heavy. In my opinion, brush strokes in the wrong place are UGLY. Even on frames. What i would do is bristle brush paint everything you want, then go over any visible areas with a little electric DA with 80 or 120 grit to smooth down the brush marks. Don't worry if you break through to metal. (I think the best place for Masterseries is in the nooks and crannies that the sander can't get to.) When done sanding the MS primer, shoot everything with an epoxy primer, even the newly exposed bare metal. Epoxy primer is meant for this. I think this technique will look really good for you. I don't know how original you intend to go, but it can't hurt to get a smooth spray finish on everything.

Anyway, thanks for the great pictures. I know I'm one of several who are poring over the detail shots...it's nice to see how things were since folks like me have giant holes of air instead of metal! Ha!

Good luck with your resto!

[Ironman51]

Thanks for the tips fellas. The MasterSeries products are in the mail! Squidtone, that sounds like an interesting approach. Sounds like you are using the masterseries almost like a filler for pitting and scratches. I'm sure that would result in a nice smooth finish. I think I will apply it with a nice brush and see how that comes out. Might ended up taking the sanding and epoxy primer approach if the result shows brush strokes that I can't live with. Right now trying to find some nice brushes to purchase... Seems like each step of this process presents so much research and learning. Never realized all the varieties of brushes. Hopefully I can get one that lays it on nice without brush strokes.

Been busy the last few days with obligations and working on building some doors for the shop so haven't got much done with the jeep. Just some rough scraping and cleaning of the transmission.

And I am happy to help with pictures. The least I can do for all the help I will get from everyone. If there are things people want to see just ask and I will snap picture of what I can.

[Ironman51]

Alright guys and gals I have all I need to get the frame painted and move on with the project but I have a few questions.

One is on the front bumper. I need some help identifying some holes in the front bumper. My goal is to find out the purpose of these holes and fill in the ones that are not original and possibly the ones I will not be using. I know the large one just off center of the middle of the bumper is for hand crank. The 4 smaller ones in the middle of the bumper that from a square shape by the crank hole I believe are aftermarket and not original. I plan on filling those. And I know the 2 in vertical alignment just outside the passenger side frame mount rivet are for the license plate holder. The ones I have questions about are the ones circled in red in the picture below.� From what I have been able to find online I believe them to all be original holes but I have not been able to find what their intended use was for. Like I said, I am trying to find this information out so I can fill in what I need to before painting. Any help with answers or some to direction as to where to find the answers would be appreciated.

My second question is in reference to the second picture. There are two bolts with what appears to be a broken bracket of some sort. This is located in the middle of the passenger side frame rail between the front two body mount outriggers. I have been able to find it in pictures of other CJ3As but they to have been broken or missing the bracket piece altogether. This isn't as important to know for moving forward with painting the frame, because I am pretty certain it is something original. Still curious as to what this was used for?

Other than that I have a few minor areas of frame repair/straightening (actually just bumper stuff). Also going to go through the process of ensuring the frame is straight. This isn't something I am worried about, but figured it would be good to go through the process for the experience.

[Bob W]

The bolts and broken bracket on the sides are the remains of a side step.