Getting there

[NoCoWillys]

No pictures yet but I got everything welded up and some filler spread to even everything out.  I've spent the weekend filling holes and straightening metal on the fenders.  Few welds ground down and some filler and I'll be ready to spray them too. 

Quick question for everyone.  I'm looking at my hood and it's fairly decent.  It suffers from some major oil can syndrome though. How much is normal?  I don't know if it is my hood or every one is like that.  I'm going to tighten it up a bit with a torch and some wet rags.  The previous owner had bolted on some square tube steel that ran down the length of the hood from the windshield blocks back.  I've removed it and just a few holes needed to be welded up.  I am however considering going non-stock and running some strips of steel on the underside of the hood like these tubes were on top of the hood.  I'm thinking 1" by 3/8" (or whatever I can find that will work well at the hardware store).  Any thoughts on this as a stiffener?  I've considering tying them together at the front and back just to give the hood a little more support.  Any thoughts on that?

[F Bill]

If you can get a framework built underneath that won't interfere with the air filter, carb, radiator, or other stuff underneath the hood it may be the fastest and most permanent solution. ...

Heat shrinking hood oil canning is a tough job to get right. I am sure it can be done but it takes talent. Worst thing is just one idiot heaving his tail up on your hood and you have to do it all over again.

[NoCoWillys]

It's been a while since I've updated this.� Slowly getting there still!

[NoCoWillys]

Almost ready to start it up!� A few more tweaks and checks and I'll be ready for a test drive!

[athawk11]

Looks great.  It gets really fun when they start going back together.  Keep us posted.

Tim

[zooke581]

Nice work.

[NoCoWillys]

Thanks everyone.  It seems I've struck it lucky and got a bad brake light switch.  From my quick research on here and elsewhere on the web it seems to be a common problem.  My new turn signal switch (truck-lite 900) works great and my turn signals work properly on all four corners.  Just not brake lights when I push the pedal.  I'll pick one up at autozone tomorrow and see how it does. 

A side note, the truck-lite 900 turn signal switch is pretty nice.  I tried to put the one I ordered from Walcks on but snapped the case while trying to tighten down the worm clamp.  I'd suggest everyone avoid that one.  Cheap plastic.  The truck-lite is metal and feels much better made.   

[Quebec Jeep]

I do agree with you, I ordered one from Walcks and it broke while I was trying to install it. Very cheap plastic stuff.

I bought an old sparton model one, all in metal....! Work great!

[NoCoWillys]

Got a lot of progress done over the past week.  Here's some shots:



I got glass put in at a local commercial/residential and auto glass shop.  I took the frame and gasket in and picked it up a few hours later.  Looks great!


I've gotten as far as trying to start it.  However I just can't seem to get fuel to flow to the pump.  I ended up finding a clogged line between the pump and tank that I blew out with air.  I might just not have enough gas in the tank now.  Any tips for priming the system?   I've gotten it to chug a few times using starter fluid but that's it. 

[athawk11]

NoCo,

Think about the basics when starting your Willys.� You need fuel, compression, and spark.

The fuel systems is really self priming.� Have you seen fuel delivered to your fuel filter bowl?� If so, the fuel pump is working.� If you look down the carb throte while pulling on the accelerator linkage, and you see some fuel squirts, the carb bowl also has fuel and the carb fuel jet at the bottom of the fuel bowl is not clogged.� If you see these things, your non start is probably not fuel related.�

Compression:� Even with a bad engine and poor compression, you will still, normally, be able to start the engine.� It just may be under powered, or burn oil, or similar.

Spark:� Critical to make sure your timing is close, if not dead on.� Spark plug cables are routed to the correct firing order. (I always do this wrong for some reason. � Counter clock wise on the distributor.) Spark plug gaps to .030.� Points clean and gapped to .020.� A good coil. A good condencer.�

I'm sure there are some additional things to consider when starting it up.� Hopefully others will chime in.

Good luck.

Tim

[F Bill]

Fresh spark plugs are always a good idea when troubleshooting a no start condition. Often they get fouled and won't spark, due to fuel deposits , etc. There is a way to clean them that involves heating with a torch till the insulator is red hot and letting them cool slowly but at the price of a set of plugs many won't want to bother.

Also on the fuel issue, FRESH fuel is a must nowadays with that darn corngas  they sell.

[NoCoWillys]

Thanks everyone.  I've got new plugs and wires.  I didn't redo the cap and rotor since it was running before I cleaned it up.  I'm a bit concerned the carb might be a little gummed up but I haven't even gotten gas to the pump (through the filter I have before the pump either.)  I know the line is clear now so I think the next step is to get a couple more gallons of fresh gas in the tank then try again.  The whole project hasn't been easy the ol' girl won't give up that easy. 

[NoCoWillys]

Well after draining out the tank and removing it, it seems I didn't get the fuel tank completely clean.  I didn't realize at least my tank has some sort of pickup. It's not just a bung on the bottom.  I take it that is expected?  I can get air to go through if I have a line hooked up to it and dump my compressor into it, but barely.  It takes a lot of pressure.  Once I release the pressure it plugs back up.  I can't get gas to flow out of the tank for anything.  The rest of the tank seems OK but I just cant get this tube to clear out.  Any ideas?  I'm almost to just trashing the tank but would rather not...  :-/

[F Bill]

I think it was Bruce W who discovered that some tanks have a pickup tube that loops up and back down to the floor of the tank..It sounds like yours may be plugged. Time to look inside the tank, best done thru the fuel sender hole.. Bruce had a pinhole in his line that made him run out of fuel when the fuel level reached it.

You might have success with a miniature roto rooter technique, using a tiny flexible cable like an old speedo cable, driven by a drill and pushed thru the tube from  the bottom of the tank...

If all else fails you can break off the tube, or install another tube with a filter sock either there or at the drain hole and reroute the fuel line.  It can be done without soldering on the tank, but if you choose to repair it in the original location you probably ought to have the pros boil it out and do the work.

[athawk11]

...using a tiny flexible cable like an old speedo cable, driven by a drill and pushed thru the tube from� the bottom of the tank...
 

That's a bonafide VCI!! (Very Clever Idea)� I like it!



The four tanks I have messed with, all have the U-shaped pick up tube.� It's actually a good design.� The tube doesn't quite touch the bottom of the tank, thus keeping debree out of the fuel line, and in the bottom of the tank, if the tank runs dry.� If the fuel was delivered directly through the bottom of the tank, and the tank ran dry, all the debree would be sucked into the fuel line, offering a greater chance of a clogged system.

This is why I shutter everytime someone decides to hook the fuel line to the drain hole on the bottom of the tank.

Tim