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Back in the eighty's I installed a LOCK-RIGHT in my '52 M38A1. I think they have the same rear end, but wouldn't swear to it. Easy install and have had no issues with it since then. I don't think there are many choices available.
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BODY and trim / Re: Rear Seat Questions
« Last post by Mike Udal on Today at 04:43:08 AM »
Thank you all for helping jeep owners around the world connect!

Doug and Chuck, I have received your Paypal payments - thank you.

This past weekend I welded up and re-finished your respective seat peg pairs. I was working yesterday but hope to get them in the mail today. Give them around 6 weeks to arrive. If they simply do not arrive please contact me via the email address given above.

Take care all,

Mike
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Your CJ-3A Project / Rear Diff Locker on a CJ3A...what's my best choice?
« Last post by trijjicon on Yesterday at 05:59:42 PM »
I'm thinking of using a "lunchbox" style in the rear first. Then perhaps later on doing  an E-locker style up-front.  My Jeep is for off-roading mostly. I tow it on a  trailer if I have far to go. But I do need to travel a good bit of pavement around here to get to the dirt roads out in the country. Any feedback would certainly be much appreciated. Thnx
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I believe you can get the stripped bolt out of the crankshaft by removing the oil pan and the rear main bearing cap...then rotate the crank until the stripped bolt is toward the bottom of the crank/engine block.
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Buy, Sell, Trade / Re: CJ3B Vented Windshield For Sale
« Last post by OnlyOneDR on Yesterday at 11:33:18 AM »
Old JEEP that is.......ha ha ha!

Good save!  I read it the other way!
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Vincent,
I'm a long way removed from working in that area but seem to recall not enough room to pull out of crankshaft.  I think it may be possible to loosen the main bearing caps enough to get one out but would require some disassembly.  Not that it helps now, but I've always attached the flywheel before finishing the engine and dropping it into the frame.

From my very limited experience - and more importantly having a bolt failure at that location (with lots of follow-on damage) - I really don't think attempting to re-thread is a good idea.  The threads failed (possibly from over torque) so that material is already weak and may not be able to hold the needed torque. 

The Service Manual indicates using a straight bolt and reaming out the tapered hole.  Luckily for me, my dowels were reusable.  Since I haven't done this alteration before, I'd try to replace those dowels - if possible.

The dowels show up in a search:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Willys-MB-MB is better-CJ2A-Engine-Flywheel-Special-Dowel-Bolt-Set-G-503-/182918338630
https://www.armyjeepparts.com/p-3717-dowel-bolt-crank-shaft-jeep-tapered-type-wo-632156.aspx
http://www.classicjeepparts.com/en/engine/flywheel-to-crankshaft-dowel-conical-early.html

Others here have way more experience on this and will hopefully weigh in on their options.
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Once You've Joined / Re: Welcome Lord2924
« Last post by Rus Curtis on Yesterday at 10:03:48 AM »
Jon,
Welcome!  Fine looking jeep!  I'll bet that jeep has some stories.
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I've just mounted the engine to the chassis, no tub yet, and getting ready to mount the Flywheel, I realized the threading on one of the tapered bolts on the crankshaft is stripped.  I know I can get replacement bolts/dowels/pins, whatever they're called. But can I remove and replace the old one without removing the Crankshaft?  Is re-threading this bolt a possibility? I assume the bolt was originally pressed in from the engine side of the crankshaft before the crankshaft was installed.
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Once You've Joined / Re: Welcome Lord2924
« Last post by Lord2924 on July 12, 2020, 11:30:36 PM »
Hi. my name is Jon, and I own a 1953 CJ 3B, which has been in the family since 1955.
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