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Messages - Daves43GPW

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1
I have been closely following the Rick Stivers rebuild guide as posted in the tech section. He does note it is not uncommon to see less then .005" end play so I'm not really concerned there. Worst case I can do what Novak suggests and lightly sand the steel thrust washer to get the end play back in spec. My main concern is the steel thrust washer is spinning. It appears Willys intended this washer to be the wear surface. If this part is spinning the transmission case would be subjected to wear. At the moment the best solution I can think of is seeing if a local shop can braze a small tab in place to act as a shoulder.

2
Hello All,

I started working on assembling my T90 today and ran into a slight problem. The thrust washer that rides against the case on the small end of the cluster gear (part 640411) has a tab that should engage on a shoulder in the transmission case to prevent this washer from turning. It appears someone was previously in my transmission and ground the shoulder on the case down such that the washer now turns with the cluster gear. Has anybody ran into this issue before? Any suggestions?

Another question I have is on the end play of the cluster gear assembly. The service manual states there should be .012-.018" of end play on the cluster gear. I haven't yet figured out a way to put my dial indicator on the shaft but it doesn't feel like there is any end play in the assembly. I installed a NOS cluster gear from Ron Fitzpatrick Jeep Parts and the thrust washers and bearings are from the Novak master rebuild kit. Should I take this apart and lightly sand down the steel washer?

Regards,

David

3
All, thanks for the replies. I agree if the engineers put it in, there really isn't a good excuse to take it out. I'll add the collector to my shopping list.


4
I'm curious as to what people's opinions are of the oil slingers in the T90. I see on the web some people remove these as they claim they don't really do anything. My T90 had the delete option but I can pick up a NOS slinger for a few bucks. Is it worth adding it back in?

Thanks,
David

5
I would like to thank everybody for their inputs on this issue.

I don't have a pair of calipers or micrometers large enough that can measure the length of the gear, but putting the new and old gear side by side on my workbench it looks like the new gear is a few thousands shorter then old. Reading te service manual I believe the proper end play of the installed cluster gear is 0.012-0.018" so there is a risk this new gear will not meet his spec. I guess this will just have to be something that I'll have to check during installation like Tim and Tumbleweed recommend.

Any concerns with the larger machined tabs on the small end? Assuming the end play is still within the factory spec does anybody think there is risk with having a thrust washer that might have a little "back and forth slack"?

Thanks,

David

6
Hello All,

I was able to get my donor T90 torn apart last weekend and started inspecting all of the parts. I noticed the cluster gear ID had visible wear where the needles bearings ride so I decided to replace it. I purchased an NOS Lempco gear on Ebay which came today. I noticed there are two major differences between this gear and the gear I pulled out of the transmission. The front bearing surfaces on the NOS gear looks thinner and the rear "tabs" that support the rear thrust washer are significantly larger as shown in the attached pictures.

What are everyone's thoughts, Are these differences going to have an impact on performance or am I getting worked up over nothing?

Thanks,

David 

7
Very Interesting, I'm glad other people have wondered this also.

I could see no practical purpose for this pipe, but did not think of the crankcase pressure forcing oil out through the seal.

Didn't Willys change the rear seal design from rope to a rubber type in the early 50's? If so I wonder if the engineers decided the oil return pipe is no longer needed with the new seal design. (I did remove a rubber type seal from this engine)

Thanks,
Dave

8
I am in the middle of tearing my L134 engine down for a complete rebuild. This engine came out of a �49 (I think) CJ3A that had been sitting outside without a distributor or spark plugs for several years and is pretty well seized. In doing some Google searches I noticed alot of L134 have an �oil drain pipe� that is attached to the rear main bearing cap. I am finding no such part in my engine. Was this something that was only on the original chain drive engines?

It looks like somebody had previously been inside this engine as the crankshaft was turned down to accept 0.020� undersized bearings. I also discovered the oil pump float and support bracket are damaged so I�m pretty sure if who ever was inside this engine before didn�t know what he/she was doing.

Thanks and Best Regards,
Dave

9
Once You've Joined / New Member from Central Iowa
« on: October 20, 2015, 07:04:23 PM »
Hello All,

New Member checking In. Earlier this year I purchased a 1943 GPW that had been modified to use the drive train from a M151 MUTT. I was able to buy a 1951 Parts CJ3A which I plan to use as the drive train for the GPW. Unfortunately, as the CJ sat outside the engine is completely stuck so I am in the process of tearing it apart for a complete rebuild

I have a bit of experience working on antique tractors and look forward to rebuilding the L134 Engine. I have several questions on this engine I hope you fine folks can answer and help with in the process.

Best Regards,

Dave

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