Messages

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Well I thought I should show off some progress

« on: April 08, 2015, 01:19:11 AM »

Looks great!

(I went through a similar phase when I just wanted my engine to look done.)

But I wasn't building engine parts from scratch.  Holy cow.

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Wiring help needed

« on: February 15, 2015, 07:17:18 PM »

All wired up and done.

Turns out my harness has a two prong flasher, so the Signal Stat's indicator lights don't work, but I don't care.� (I may swap it out at a later date.)  But right now, I have functioning lights and signals, the gauges work, and the engine fires up.� I even have a working horn (it's a loud sucker from Omix-Ada for later CJ's).

For the first time since I bought it in August of '13, I have a street legal flattie!

Life is good.

Thanks again!

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Wiring help needed

« on: February 13, 2015, 01:28:12 AM »

You guys are the best.� I lurk a lot and post only rarely, but this site has really saved me.

I've got the engine bay wired up except the signals.� I've got the grounds laid out and routed so that everything ends up back on the engine block, which goes to negative on the battery.� With your feedback and advice, I expect to have it running and driving (legally ) this weekend.

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Wiring help needed

« on: February 12, 2015, 05:27:28 PM »

p.s. - I've read the pages on the CJ3B covering turn signals, and I've got the diagram for wiring the Signal Stat. 

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Wiring help needed

« on: February 12, 2015, 05:21:28 PM »

I've got a weird combo of vehicles/parts, so please bear with me.
1. My rig has a Ford 260 V8 engine, a universal 12 circuit wiring harness, and a Signal Stat 900 turn signal device (the one with seven wires).
2.� I'm using the stock CJ3A headlight switch with the two settings/options, parking lights or all.
3.� I'm using a CJ5 dual filament parking light from Omix-Ada and Walck's Naco Standard CJ2A tail lights (the one with a red wire and a black wire out the back).

I'm trying to figure out how to have the parking lights go on with the headlight switch but still flash with the Signal Stat.� I figured I'd run power to the headlight switch, from that switch to the Signsl Stat, and then from the Signal Stat to the parking lights. BUT I can see how to feed power from the headlight switch to the Signal Stat.

I'm also not sure if the red and black wires to the Naco replicas are both hot forthe two different filaments (and so the ground is through the brake light case to the tub) or if red is hot and black is ground or ...?

Help!

Thanks,

Tucker

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Saginaw steering pickle

« on: July 03, 2014, 11:50:21 PM »

Thanks, guys.� (Sorry for the late reply--been camping in the beautiful boonies of the Pacific Northwest for the last week and a half.)

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Saginaw steering pickle

« on: June 16, 2014, 11:08:33 PM »

I've got an issue with my Saginaw setup.

My project was in partial upgrade mode when I bought it.� The original owner had added in a Saginaw manual steering box, which is great, but it was hooked up to a hideous Grant steering wheel that just doesn't work for me.� I'm going back to a stock steering wheel (found an original on eBay), but I want the Saginaw box to stay.� I can't for the life of me find a steering shaft that works with the stock steering wheel.

For those of you who have done this before (added a Saginaw box but kept the stock wheel), what did you do for a steering shaft?� I can't find one the right size.� (I measured mine and believe the stock wheel has a 13/16"-36 spline hole in it--PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong).

Do I simply need to buy a stock worm gear shaft and cut off the worm gear part of it?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Tucker

8

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: T90/Dana 18 leak help

« on: May 27, 2014, 10:24:00 PM »

Great feedback, guys.  This is giving me some good stuff to work through before I pull it.

I took pics of my rebuild and just verified that I'd put the locking plate in correctly (from the top), so that's good.

However, I may not have put on enough thread sealant for the bottom center bolt that attaches the Dana 18 to the T90, so I'm going to pull it, clean it thoroughly, blow air through it to get and residual oil off the threads, goop the heck out of the bolt with sealant, and reinstall.  If that ain't it, I'll weep softly and then pull the t-case.

I used black RTV on my bolts.  Is there something better I might want to use?

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / T90/Dana 18 leak help

« on: May 27, 2014, 01:29:48 PM »

Hi folks,

Finally added some GL1 oil in my efforts to button up the tranny and figure out what holes I'm going to need in the tub for the shifters, only to find a small leak right where the Dana 18 and T90 meet up (at the bottom). I checked to make sure the bolts were snug, which they were, but the leak persisted.� I swear I put the RTV and the gasket on right, but clearly my amateur skills have caught up with me here.

I'm assuming I'll have to pull the transfer case, put on a new gasket with more RTV, and then mount it back up, but I wanted to double check that there isn't another super-duper secret trick that will allow me to skip said removal and repair.� Contemplating a three hour job for a two dollar gasket replacement is depressing me.

Any tips?� Dip the rig in RTV?� Hug the Dana 18 in a firm but appropriately platonic embrace?� Burn a Chevy as ritual sacrifice?�

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Original Literature

« on: May 16, 2014, 02:39:24 AM »

Copies please!

What do you need from me for the PDFs?

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Dash holes

« on: May 05, 2014, 10:00:22 PM »

X2 on the pipe.

For my dash, which had NINE extra holes ranging from dime to nickel in size, I took a 8" piece of scrap 1" copper pipe and smashed one end of it with a dead low hammer.� Then I bent it to a 30� angle. Did the same to the other end but gave it a 45� angle.� The intact tube in the middle works as a handle, and the angles give me some leverage to keep consistent pressure on the back of the hole.� Worked pretty well.

I can see using a variety of pipe diameters to make a few "spoons" that will fit where you need them to go.
Depending on how long you are at it, be careful of the heat that can transfer through the copper pipe to your fingers.

12

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Leaf spring diagnosis help needed

« on: March 05, 2014, 08:42:47 PM »

Thanks for the info!

Mine is at about 7-8"' so I've probably got a two-inch lift since not all the weight of the vehicle is on the chassis right now.

I had a feeling about the 13 leaf pack.  Might as well be square tubing for all the give it seems to have.

I think I'll leave them on for now but look around for a rear leaf set closer to 8-10 leaves.  It's going to be an off-roader, so I'll need some give.

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Leaf spring diagnosis help needed

« on: March 04, 2014, 12:05:32 PM »

Hi all,

I'm trying to figure out how much, if any, lift I got when I bought my basket case.� It's a 3A frame, tub, and title.

The rear leaf springs have 13 leaves--military?
The front have 9--stock?

What is the stock measurement from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame?� That, I assume, will give me some sense of whether I have a lift or not.

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Dana 18 speedo drive gear removal

« on: January 08, 2014, 01:31:54 PM »

No, it was fine.  I think it had just sat for a very long time and the crud had solidified between the gear and the shaft. The oil/water sludge in it, however, looked like, for lack of a better word, brown/yellow/green puke.  Fortunately, because it had a leak, the gears weren't sitting in much of that. 

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Dana 18 speedo drive gear removal

« on: January 02, 2014, 02:05:21 PM »

Quick update in case someone has this same problem in the future: I soaked the entire shaft in CLR for quite a while to dissolve some of the crud that may have built up, and then I used a gear puller to pull on the bearing, which helped slide the speedo gear off.

I've since rebuilt the transfer case, and I installed it a few days ago.  Life is good.