The CJ3A Page CJ3B.info

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - PaulS

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 19
1
Over the next few months, I'll be buying a whole lot of stuff...  The question is where.  I will assume there isn't a local Willys dealer in Edmonton, so online buying will be happening.

What websites are recommended, both for big ticket items (like the tub kit) and for assorted parts?  They need to be willing/able to ship to Canada.  For big ticket items, if there's a non-web-based supplier that is highly recommended, I would deal with them, too.

If there's a storefront dealer in Western Canada (AB BC SK) or the US NW (WA, ID, MT, OR), I might be willing to drive over with my trailer, if they had just about everything I might need in stock...

Thanks,

-Paul

2
Getting back to the jeep project after a winter off...

Finished rebuilding the distributor.  The new bushings remove all wobble in the shaft--I'm surprised the engine ran as well as it did before.

Now I want to put it back on the engine, but it won't go in!  (The darned thing didn't want to come out, either.  I never did get it out.  I sent the block to the machine shop with it still attached.)  I know the tang is offset, and I have that lined up right, but it just won't go in.

I even have a spare shaft, and I couldn't get it to go in either.

Clearly, I'm missing something stupidly obvious here.  Any idea what it might be?

Thanks,

-Paul

3
Can they be interchanged in an axle?  I can't use the Rzeppas from a 27 to replace the Spicers in a 25, can I?

-Paul

4
"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / frame rivets
« on: September 23, 2016, 11:33:19 AM »
I'm replacing the front bumper and rear frame member on my Jeep.  The replacement parts came with rivets.  I had been planning on bolting them on, but I might as well give the rivets a try.  Are there any good instructions out there as to how to install them?

And how about removing the old ones?  I only have to deal with the rear, as there was not an original front bumper.  Can I just grind the old rivets off, or is there a better way?

Thanks,

-Paul

5
Gunslinger:  I don't suppose you noted what your shaft play was on that pump when you installed it?

-Paul

6

I just assembled my oil pump with a new gasket (home cut from gasket paper).

Two questions:

1.  There is 0.003 inches of end play.  Too much, not enough, or just right?  (It's in the range in the manual, but this isn't either of the types shown in the manual--it's the one with the two intermeshing gears.)
2.  When I rotate the shaft, I can feel the teeth engaging and disengaging--it doesn't feel smooth.  Is that normal or a problem?  (If it's a problem, how can I fix it?)

I'm making another Walcks order in the next couple of days, and I need to know if I have to include an oil pump on that list, or if there's a simple fix, or if it's fine as-is.

Thanks,

-Paul

7
I really hated the Camaro (?) steering column that was there--it just didn't belong in a Jeep.  If I really hate Ross steering, I'll look around for a power steering column that looks like it belongs in a Jeep.  I've kept the system, so it can be reinstalled if needed.

-Paul

8
Quote
Power steering?

Yup.  I think the steering column came from a Camaro and the steering linkages came out of something like an Impala.  There was an idler arm in there that had failed and was literally held together with baling wire.


One of the first things I did when I got the Jeep was pull all the steering linkages--everything between the power steering unit's pitman arm and the the knuckles--and replace it with something that looks like a modern Jeep. (A single tie rod between the knuckles, tied back to the pitman arm with a drag link.)


But in my full rebuild, I'm reverting to a Ross steering system.  The PO still had the Ross box, but everything else is new.  But the original point is that the brackets on the engine which held the power steering pump in place are now no longer needed. Nor is one of the brackets that was holding some air intake piping.

-Paul

9
BTW, by getting rid of the power steering unit that was on the Jeep, and reverting to an original-type air cleaner, I'm getting rid of all the other custom brackets that were on the engine...

-Paul

10
As soon as I said "alternator", you knew it was a custom setup!  :)

Was the original generator supported just from the two bolts?

There's certainly no harm in keeping the extra support from the bolt by the starter--it's not in the way of anything. (It'll be painted black like the engine before being finally mounted.)  But if it's not needed, cutting the angle iron will be a bit easier than cutting the filter bracket off.  (There's a brace on the back side that's not seen in the picture.)

There's a lot of 12V Jeeps out there, and presumably these all have custom-rigged alternator mounts.  How different is this from the typical?

-Paul

11
This is the mount that came with my Jeep:



As you can see, it's got a bracket to hold a spin-on oil filter.� I'm cutting that off to replace the filter with the proper one.

I think that there's clearance between the oil filter and the alternator, but I may need an elbow at the bottom of the filter.� I presume that's not a problem, is it?

But the main question...� As I said, I'm cutting the bracket off.� But do I just cut the bracket off the angle iron, leaving the full length of angle iron, or can I cut the angle iron behind the second bolt?� In other words, are the two bolts under the alternator enough, or is that third one by the starter needed?

In the parts manual it seems there's a connection from the starter to the block.� I'm guessing that's by the tab at the end of the starter.� When I got this Jeep, there was nothing there.� Does that matter?� (I see Walcks sells a mount for the earlier starters, but not the CJ3A starter.)

Thanks,

-Paul

12
 :)

Thankfully my wife has resigned herself to the fact that this project is going to cost a lot of money, and I pretty much have free rein to buy what I need.  The machine shop work on the block was a big one, but the new tub (and everything else) is going to be the really big ticket item...

I know what you mean about being beat up.  I just replaced all the cross-pieces in the U-joints.  And I think I did each of them twice--for a couple different mistakes.  I forget what the first mistake was, but three of the four joints needed to be reversed--I didn't realize that the grease fitting was offset to one side for a reason...  I'm so glad I have a press.  I can't think what removing and reinstalling those (without damaging them) would be like with a hammer.

One nice thing about doing a full rebuild of the whole darned thing is that I should be pretty familiar with everything about it by the end!

-Paul

13
Beautiful!  Thank you.

What does the end of the cable's sheath attach to?

-Paul

14
"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Part ID?
« on: July 25, 2016, 08:56:12 PM »
Any idea where this is from or what it's for?  It was in a baggie with parts from around the clutch/brake pedals.  But there was other stuff there, too.



Thanks,

-Paul

15
Okay, never mind.  Hawk solved the problem for me on the CJ2A forum.

Turns out there was a steel ring that was part of the old mount that was still there...  ::)



Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 19