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Messages - RedWilly

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1
Keep in mind that the Signal Stat indicator will not work if it isn't getting a good ground through the steering column tube.

2
Mine has a similar whine, also since I installed the OD. More noticeable in OD but still present when in DD. I have put around 500 miles on it since installing the OD with no noticeable difference in the whine.

3
Just to add a little to this thread. I have had problems with parts purchased from both KW and Walcks and both have stood behind and sent me replacement parts or given me in store credit, no questions asked.

4
I assume you are talking about the brackets on the tub, rear of front seats that the top bows slip into. Attached is measurements Dan from Beachwood Canvas sent me. Hope this helps


5
From the looks of the picture I would say that part of the old seal is still there. It does not look like a machined "lip".

6
Correction, my last post should have read with all four tires off the ground for all positions.

7
With the TC in 4 wheel drive with all 4 tires on the ground you will not be able to turn the front drive shaft by hand. In 2 wheel drive you will be able to turn the front drive shaft. In neutral you will be able to turn both drive shafts.

8
I had a similar issue accompanied by a continuous leak. Check this for explanation.   http://www.cj3apage.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1367627098

9
I had a similar issue with mine where I thought the clamp bolt was tight but I could still turn the distributor. It ended up that the bolt was too long and was hitting the block before it actually tighten completely.

10
I finally got the guide out. I ended up drilling and taping it with 1/2 thread, then threaded all thread into the guide and pulled it using a socket and washers for the spacer. I heated the block slightly and once it popped loose it came out fairly easy. Hopefully between the rags on top of the tappets and the magnet right below the guide I caught all the shavings. Now I need to acquire a driver and wait for the parts to come.

11
The valve guides were not replaced when I rebuilt the engine 300 miles ago, but they were in good shape. Only one guide is bad so either the machinist who did the valves missed it or it has worn for some reason in a short period of time. Trying to pull it using threaded rod, but no luck so far.

12
I don't believe the valve is sticking but I will know more when I remove the valve springs and pull the valve out. I ran out of time today and not sure when I will get back to it.

13
Any one have valve guides go bad after 300 miles? I have two cylinders with 0 compression. Did a cylinder leak down test and found both to be leaking past the intake valves. I pulled the head and found the valves to be in the seat crooked. I can tap the valve side to side and get it to seat so I am assuming the guides are worn. Any tips to replacing the guides?

14
The studs will come serrated and unless your hub is egg shaped they should press in and hold. I had to spot weld a couple as they did not hold. I used a shop press to remove and install. On the ones that did not hold I pressed in, tighten a lug nut in place to square the stud to the hub and then spot welded in a couple of spots.

15
The Pal Nuts look the same as you would find on the Rod Bearing Caps. Any chance they were put with the valve train items by mistake?

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