Messages

1

Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Re: Anyone replaced the front upper shock mounts? How to attach rivets/bolts?

« on: January 13, 2022, 08:40:19 AM »

The original shock mounts should be riveted and tack welded. I extended mine two inches and used nut-serts and 3/8" bolts. I bought them and the tool on McMaster-Carr and additionally tack welded them.

2

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Points Set

« on: January 13, 2022, 08:36:14 AM »

I am a little late to the party, but I had the same issue and converted to electronic ignition. Now I am not suggesting you do that, but something interesting I recently come across is I have an original 1937 Chevrolet. It is still six volt and it does not burn up points, so I went back to my jeep ballast resistor and was getting 8.5 volts. I believe that was my issue and had I been thoughtful enough then, I would have tried something different and retained the points.

I believe there are three typical issues with the modern points parts. 1. Ballast resistors do not sufficiently reduce voltage. 2. The points wear block is to soft, wears to quickly, allowing the points to close up. 3. Condensers do not sufficiently buffer the voltage spikes.

I would look for new old stock points parts and check the ballast resistor, or get a Ron Francis voltage reducer and supply a straight six volts to the ignition.       

3

Your CJ-3A Project / Re: Upside of COVID? Rebuild your Jeep!

« on: April 01, 2021, 07:52:39 AM »

Looks nice. I spent about five years of weekends and vacation on mine, The key is breaking it down into components and doing it one  at a time. That way every completed component is a small victory. It also helps spread out the expenditures of money. I started with the chassis, then axels, then transfercase and trans, then motor. I left the body and metal work for last knowing it was the least enjoyable, but walking past the complete driveline kept me motivated.

Keep krackalackin Sakajeep!   

4

Electrical Systems / Re: My coil is getting real hot....Quest to get my 12v 1 wire alt electrical system

« on: March 30, 2021, 06:26:25 PM »

Buck, I know this is a late post, but I had a similar issue. My problem was the wrong coil for my application.

I am not an electrician, but the way I understand it, there is a 1.5 and 3 ohm coil for 12 volt applications. The 1.5 ohm is typically for 8 cylinder engines and 3 ohm for 6 and 4 cylinder engines. Of course an 8 cylinder will discharge the coil more times per second than a 4 cylinder, so if you have the 1.5 ohm on a 4 cylinder engine, it is storing more current than intended, thus overheating.

Mine wouldn't completely die, but lose power the more I drove. I messed with float levels, fuel pump, changed plugs and ran compression checks. The spark plugs would be black as coal. I took off the NAPA coil, put on a Petronix 3ohm coil and my issues went away. The NAPA coil was a 1.5 ohm unit. It would also get smokin hot.

5

"Modifications"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Incites / Re: Modified Oil Bath Air Cleaner

« on: March 30, 2021, 05:35:40 PM »

Rus, I completely whiffed on your question about the air filter. Yes, it is re-usable. They make a recharge kit that includes some soap and oil. Just wash, let dry, oil and reinstall.

6

"Modifications"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Incites / Re: Modified Oil Bath Air Cleaner

« on: March 29, 2021, 08:09:00 AM »

Thanks for the compliment Rus.

Really you wouldn't need to open the bottom up as it could breath through the perferations in the back of the shell, the side facing the firewall. I opened my up because of rust.

7

"Modifications"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Incites / Modified Oil Bath Air Cleaner

« on: March 28, 2021, 07:15:22 PM »

Thought I would share some pictures and ideas on how I modified an air filter housing to use a modern filter. To start, I want to say that my housing was rusted out and if it had not been, I probably wouldn't have done this. The old down side to this set-up is that the filter must be oiled to work properly, so either way you going to be playing with oil during service.

PICTURE 1, 2 & 3:  You will notice that I have two tool box latches securing the top dome to the shell which additionally sandwiches
                             the filter plate between the two. 

PICTURE 4: This picture of me holding the top / dome, with the bottom towards the camera, you can zoom in on the edge and see how the
                  outer rim is double layered. That lip that is a bit jagged was crimped around an edge on the shell circled in Picture 5. I used a
                  small screw driver to open up that crimp to separate the dome from the shell. I then crimped it back down to eliminate a sharp
                  edge.
PICTURE 5: The yellow circle identifies the horizontal lip on the shell that the dome is crimped on to. I put door edging around it to eliminate the sharp
                  edge. I did not cut it off because it give the shell some extra strength.  You will also see that I cut the bottom out of the oil cup and
                  also used door edging to eliminate the sharp edge.   
PICTURE 6: This shows the plate and tube I welded up to accept the filter. I put soft rubber, inter tube I think, around the outer edge on the
                  bottom and top to use as a seal. After several thousand miles, it seems to work well. There have no signs of dust or dirt in the
                  dome. The filter was a stock item at Pep-Boys in their rice rocket section.

The rest of this is pretty self explanatory. Aside from the tool box latches, it looks stock and those unfamiliar with old jeeps would never know it isn't original. 

8

Your CJ-3B Project / Re: Five Year Project 3B

« on: March 26, 2021, 02:58:04 PM »

Thanks Steve and Russ. I should have probably bought a reproduction body or a better Jeep, but you know the old saying " step over a dime to pick up a nickle" . Needless to say, my time is cheap!

9

Your CJ-3B Project / Re: Five Year Project 3B

« on: March 26, 2021, 02:26:42 PM »

I wanted some old timey reservoirs for the wilwood master cylinder and the plan was Jaguar XKE reproductions but they are crazy expensive. PVC pipe glue/primer cans had to make do. A couple AN bulkhead fittings in the bottom and they look period.  I post some pictures of my air cleaner modifications soon.

10

Your CJ-3B Project / Re: Five Year Project 3B

« on: March 26, 2021, 02:08:31 PM »

I thought I would add some other pictures from the build. You'll notice Hodgy had a 2A engine and some Toyota seats. To keep costs down and since it wasn't a restoration, I just fabed up my own floors, inner wheel wells and front fenders. Floor hat channels are from Classic Enterprises in Wisconsin.

11

Your CJ-3B Project / Five Year Project 3B

« on: March 26, 2021, 10:36:44 AM »

This is my 3B named Hodgy, short for hodgepodge. I bought it as a complete jeep but knowing it was essentially parts. I believe the transmission, transfer case and axels to be 1954. The engine is 1962 and I have no idea about the frame other than late 50's. There were zero stamping on it that I could find. The body was typical rust held together with some bondo and window screen.

I really intended to do a restoration to original, hoping most of the parts would be 1957 as titled, but the casting dates on the running gear proved it was to far gone for that, so its a resto mod sorta. I decided that if it wasn't original, I might as well incorporate everything I like. The body is 3B with M38 sides, fuel tank and an early dash. I incorporated military lights and switches with a modern wiper set up from an early 80's era CJ7.

Drive train is mostly late 54 or early 55, I believe,  with a 1-1/4 transfer case, of course all has been rebuilt. Motor is .030 over 1962 from a CJ6. I have installed 2.5" lift springs, 78 CJ5 disc brakes with Chevy calipers. Willwood, dual, remote reservoir master cylinder and adjustable proportioning valve and braided brake lines. Shocks are QA1, series 51 shocks. They are valved a bit soft on compression and a bit harder on rebound. Steering is M715 with borgenson u-joints and Advance adapters steering column bushing.   

I used a Speedway 12 circuit wiring harness with weather tight plugs.  12 volt, 37 amp generator and regulator. Stewart Warner electric gauges. M35A3 turn signal assembly.

Tires are 255/85-16 BFG's on original rims, converted to tubeless. The oil bath air cleaner was rusted out, so I converted it to a K&N element.
         

12

Once You've Joined / Re: Welcome Slimpickins

« on: November 02, 2020, 07:24:37 PM »

Thank you for the welcome. While not the most hardcore jeeper, I have always loved the simplicity and durability of the early Willys and Kaiser's. They are a true testament to the fact that less is more.

I will post many pictures in the Projects forum over the coming weeks.