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Messages - BradleyDP

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[size=14]I have a new gauge and new sending unit. It does not register how much fuel I have in the tank. When I take the sending unit out of the tank and leave it wired, I move the float arm manually it registers on the gauge. Any suggestions or trouble shooting tips or videos, please[/size]

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I am in the middle of rebuilding my steering. If the price dropped some I would try it too. Is there any other devices out there?  ::)

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Any one know where I can get sewing patterns for making a canvas top for top bows?

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Death wobble!
« on: September 25, 2011, 07:19:22 PM »
I experienced last night at a 2 am ride - the Death wobble!
How to check for what caused this. Like to hear what you have to say on inspecting and repair.


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Thank you . I will check it out. Did not know there are footmans loops involved with the spare tire.
Can you send pictures of yours?

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I want to mount my spare tire carrier to the side of my jeep. I know the bracket mounts at a 45� and on top of the support bracket. But don't know exactly how. I have a notch in my carrier doe it go up or down?

Any info on this let me know please. :-?

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Attached are a few photos of my Bosch windshield wiper motor.
What wire suppose to connect to what? Every way I seem to wire it it shorts out and of course teh switch does not work.



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I have a old Bosch windshield wiper motor. I cant seem to be able to get the wiring right.
Has a on of switch on the back. I wired it direct and motor runs all the time. I know I could just put a switch on my dash. But I want the original switch to control the motor. It seems that the ground  is getting shorted when I use the housing. Switch off, nothing. Switch on, no motor. Wire gets HOT and will smoke.

Called Bosch tech support - NO HELP - to old - they do not keep spec sheets around long.

Do I need to send pictures to help solve this case?

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Gunslinger- Yes please keep me posted.
RussellL - no it is not in up side down.
Would not mind replacing core with the original style honeycomb grid. Like whats in it now. BUT Shop quoted $600.
Mine has NO leaks. So I am using Preston flush and see if that helps.

I think it's part of the new engine thing too.

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I just finished a rebuild on my engine. But it is running hot, 220�. Thermostat is not that old? Took radiator to get boiled and was informed not to. There were no leaks in it. But given it's age they think boiling would make LOTS of leaks in it. Which means new core.
SO what can I do to preserve my original radiator but get it flowing properly again. Flush it with and best way to do it?


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Did not know there was retro fitting for the Solex. Ok who is the best to rebuild my WO? I bought a rebuild kit a few years ago. I am NO mechanic or expert on this. But seemed to work fine after my rebuild. Until I had my engine rebuilt. I see all the flaws now! My mechanic "Old Inline Motors" says I should use www.armyjeepparts.com to rebuild.  Have been told he is the King of Jeeps. Or go for the Solex.

Rebuild I think is between $250-$350 - Compared to $130 for Solex with no core turn in??

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I would like some opinions on the pros and cons of a solex vs. carter carburetor.
I hear the solex runs better and low maintenance.
Maybe run the solex - but fix up the WO for show?

Anyway love to hear from you.

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Thanks for the info and catching my mistake. Yes I meant the flywheel gear. Good to hear that the flat gear on the fly wheel is correct. BUT! That is not what I am hearing from the old school mechanics and the one Replaced was beveled. I will find out soon enough how it works. Its in the motor and as soon as I find a good crank shaft pulley. I am going out for a joy ride! ;D


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The continuing saga of the crank shaft pulley by Crown! I received the 3rd pulley. The id was fine. od was to large and oblong. Fine! I took it to the machine shop. WELL when I picked it up they informed me the pulley was off center and would possibly throw the belt off. Also would not fit over the Slinger on the timing cover.  Still had to pay for the shaft turning! ARGHHHHH!  This time I called Crown in Atlanta and talked to Steve. He did not care. Just kept telling me to call Kiaser Willys to take care of  it. Company that is rebuilding my motor "Old Inline Motors" Called Steve back to give him specifics so that he could pull the bad batch of pulleys. Again. Did not care. So called Kaiser AGAIN! They gave me full credit and told me to go to a salvage yard. So a lot of time wasted, Machine shop cost and head aches. I could of just rebuilt my old pulley!!
To add to it. The timing gears by Crown have no pitch, 45� so the starter bendex will engage easily. Kaiser said that's the way it suppose to be. Yea RIGHT. I could of just flipped my old one over and would of been the same!!

Talked to several suppliers and have now learned Crown make some quality products and OMIX make some. You just have to ask around to see who has the best parts for your application before you purchase.

I am sticking with salvage parts and rebuilding them!!!!!!  :'(

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I purchased a crank shaft fan belt pulley from Kaiser Willys made by Crown. My original pulley key slot was just to worn out to put back on my rebuilt engine. It was a double pulley.
I was told the correct one was a single pulley. Received it and its id was so tight, I had to heat it up to get it back off. Which ruined it.
Kaiser did not give a refund even though they said they had trouble with some. So I purchased a second pulley. This time a double. ID fit perfect. BUT this time the outside diameter, register was very pitted, so oil came out from around seal. Called Kaiser and this time, sent at no charge a 3rd pulley. This time outer diameter was out of round, pitted and  to large to fit the seal. I took it to the machine shop to be turned to fit the seal. Which cost more than the pulley. I could of just had the original pulley fixed for less >:(

Has anyone else had problems with Crown products? Kaiser should sell with notice that products are not finished.

Where can you find quality parts for our sweet jeeps?

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