Messages

1

Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Re: Stiff steering issue after steering wheel replacement

« on: January 10, 2026, 11:52:59 AM »

Resolved!

Steering is back to normal.  This started when I pulled the steering box to replace an oil seal and to try to fix looseness in the linkages.  I replaced the draglink components, replaced the seal and used the proper 160 wt fluid and put it all back together.   At some point the adjusting screw and nut must have been moved. I mistakenly assumed it had not and did not check that adjustment.  After setting it following the manual the tightness and disappeared - amazing how that works.  I now have steering with minimal play and no leaks from the steering box so it is much happier driving.  I appreciate the input from this forum - thank you!

2

Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Re: CJ3A Ross Steering Box improvement idea

« on: December 29, 2025, 09:06:19 PM »

I would think the clearance of a fresh bushing and unworn sector shaft clearance or even partially worn would not allow a proper viscosity lubricant to leak whereas needle bearing configuration would allow more potential leakage, or place a bigger load on the outer seal. 

I see a 160 weight lube on my 3b without leaks and original bushings at 74k miles.

3

Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Stiff steering issue after steering wheel replacement

« on: December 29, 2025, 08:58:45 PM »

I may have messed this up and am hoping you can steer me to a solution.   I overhauled my drag link and replaced a steering box seal that leaked.  To do so I needed to remove my old steering wheel and decided to replace it with a similar reproduction wheel.  Play has disappeared so I am pleased.

I had to bang a lot on the steering shaft with the nut installed.  It did damage the threads which I dressed with a thread file. 

My problem now is stiff steering where portions of the rotation take more effort and it does not straighten out on its own.  Initially the steering wheel rubbed the tube ani I sprayed wd40 which helped.  I could hear it rub and squeal.  Now, it is less stiff but is harder to turn than I recall.

My question is if others have had problems with repro steering wheels dragging on the steering column tube or if I damaged a bearing ?   When I had the box out the worm gear looked fine and I recharged it with 160 weight with no leaking.  Not sure if some bearing is susceptible or if the repro wheel continues to rub n steering tube. 


This is one of my winter tasks to resolve a I hope for some guidance. 

4

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Ammeter wiring

« on: July 20, 2023, 05:37:40 PM »

The 6v setup sounds similar and I have attached a schematic as mine is currently set.  I just finished some needed maintenance (radiator, steering box and drag link) and have to get it inspected due to a move.  I noticed the lights were very dim and was sorting that out.  While it remains a mystery, there was no power fro the ignition switch to the light switch.  I also found a short that may explain a slow drain. So there were multiple issues which may be confusing me and my trouble shooting.

I ran a line from the Ign. lead on the ignition switch to the light switch and they now appear to be working.  I fixed the bare wire short. 

It appears though that all power aside to the starter passes through the ammeter as I tried to disconnect it to take it out of the loop and had no power at all.  This is a stock Jeep.

So far, no smoke, no arcing so I think things have progressed.

The ammeter never read backward and I suppose there is a remote chance the connections on the back were reversed.  I don't understand the purpose of the Bat connection on the regulator and it is not explained in the factory manual but the wiring path appears to be connected as shown in Fig 144 of their manual. 

I am inclined to switch the wires on the back of the ammeter and see what happens.

5

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Ammeter wiring

« on: July 20, 2023, 12:36:19 PM »

I am having difficulty figuring out the proper wiring of the ammeter on my stock '59 3b, with generator.  It had the ammeter and oil pressure gauges (Stewart Warner) mounted in the dash to the right of the speedometer that appeared to be original or a very clean owner installation.  I had to replace the tub a few decades ago and was careful in marking things - but who knows.  It worked well for a long time but after 8 months in storage I had a number of issues to address, in part due to the ammeter to ignition wire separating.

The factory manual wiring diagram (12v) does not address its connections. Currently it is connected to the battery side of the starter solenoid and then from the other ammeter post to the Bat. terminal of the ignition switch. The ignition switch has a separate battery line coming in to the Bat terminal. When I turn on the headlights it reads +, which it did not do before.  When I look at other's wiring diagrams that include ammeters I see it connected to the Bat terminal of the regulator or in one where the second terminal was connected to the + side of the battery or in other cases to the generator.

I am trying to track things using a Fluke on continuity settings but my skills here are limited.  Does the second battery connection to the ignition switch mean the ammeter reading will be incorrect?   Given it seems to read backward, can I reverse the connections on the back of the ammeter to get a proper reading?  I am tempted to disconnect it (as long as I can stall start it) and rely on the light in the speedometer and a more recent voltmeter.  I just need some means to be sure it is charging, aside from getting a dead battery in the middle of nowhere.

Thanks for suggestions,  Paul

6

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Parking brake handle install for replacement body

« on: June 12, 2022, 09:42:58 PM »

What have others done to install the cane-type parking brake handle when using a replacement body?

I replaced my 1959 CJ3b body many years ago because the old one was too badly rusted.  The replacement body did not have the inclined parking brake handle opening pressed into the dash and I did not remove the old dash. I rigged it, poorly, but it does work and it got it through inspection but after moving I will need to go through a new inspection and I would like a more solid setup. I would appreciate any other's experiences with this and suggestions for a better solution.

7

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Replacement radiators: CJ3b - Experiences, cautions, suggestions ?

« on: January 25, 2022, 06:49:54 PM »

The radiator on my mostly stock '59 CJ3b is leaking again and the shop I used many years ago is long gone. I would like to get mine repaired but will need to find a shop and hope it is not too far gone.

I am seeing a wide range of prices for new radiators and also see the variety of aluminum radiators.  A Forum search has so far found the 3a crowd experiences appear to require a lot of modifications to make them work, particularly if one wishes to re-use their shroud.

Can any one comment on the aluminum radiators available, compared to the replacement radiators from the suppliers and, in particular experiences specific to the 3b installations?

8

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Stumble and stall on uphill inclines

« on: June 18, 2020, 09:11:57 PM »

Fixed.  Check valve in fuel pump fell out. Now running fine.