The CJ3A Page CJ3B.info

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - patrickt

Pages: [1] 2 3
1
Oh, just for good measure,let me add that this is a transfer case with only one shift lever. And that the shift pattern is such that you first go into neutral from either 4 wheel high or 4 wheel low, then on to 2 wheel high.

2
Rus Curtis, BW, BillT-
                                    Thank you for the link and the more thorough replied.

                  I think i have a clearer understanding now. I did do as BW said, and just raised one front wheel, and saw a  bit of reactive movement from that wheel, just as soon as it (barely) left the ground.

                  I apologize though that I failed to mention one thing, that i in fact could get the transfer case shifter out of 4 wheel drive, but only into neutral, but am unable to get it back to 2 wheel high. Sorry, I should have caught myself earlier.... Regardless, I still could not go from neutral on the transfer case and back to 2 wheel high, after I raised that one wheel.

          And yes, I absolutely agree that removing the front propeller shaft is not the solution, but wanted to do it as a temporary fix so i could drive the jeep to our local DMV for its yearly registration. Thanks again.
                                                                     Patrick

 

3
     Thanks for your much appreciated reply. I am actually not a "real" 4x4 guy, rather, someone who likes old stuff. That said, I have never been on a bonafide off road course. In fact, I always thought that part time 4wheel drive should not be used in the streets only because of increased front tire wear and gas consumption. So transfer case windup is a new thing for me, but something I will definitely read more about.     

      So I wanted to ask about lifting up one wheel. So is the following procedure right ?
                                           1) With engine off and handbrake on and transmission in gear, put the front axel on something secure, just enough to let one wheel (a front wheel in this case) clear the floor.
                                          2) Put wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
                                          3) Shift the transmission to neutral and handbrake off.
                                          4) Start the engine
                                          5) Now shift to 2 wheel drive ( and hope it does)

      Is that procedure right ? or not ? I asked because I thought it would be a sure way to loose traction, rather than going out and driving the right side wheels off the road. Thanks again.

4
Hello All !
                 I must have been away from this great forum for maybe a couple of years now. The new format is quite a pleasant surprise !

                I have what I've determined to be an early 1950's J2 Mit-Willys jeep ( tallhood). It has a Dana front axle that appears to be (or at least looks like) a Willys MB front axle. It normally does street duty only.

                 I have yet to I.d. The transfer case, which has only one shift lever. Sorry, no pics of the transfer case / prop shaft / front axle right now. I can post some tomorrow if need be.

                 Anyway, it accidentally got shifted to 4 wheel drive on a few occasions, and is nearly impossible to shift back to 2 wheel drive on all those occasions! I understand that it could be transmission "wind up" or some wear problems.  Assuming transmission "wind up" , i will try some of the simple suggested solutions i read online.

                So on to my question. If I'm unable to shift it back to 2 wheel drive, then in the meantime " Is it ok to drive it in 4 wheel drive with the front propeller shaft disconnected ?? Anything wrong / bad with doing this ??  I'd like to minimize front tire wear and unnecessary drag on the engine, till we figure out how to get it back on 2 wheel drive. Thank You.
                    Patrick

           

5
Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Re: Trying to I.D. my Rear axle
« on: November 29, 2019, 06:37:03 PM »
Great, thanks again !

6
CONGRATULATIONS both !!

7
Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Re: Trying to I.D. my Rear axle
« on: November 27, 2019, 10:25:31 PM »
OLDTIME -
                  Hi ! For my SPICER 23-2 rear axle Outer nut, when you say to tighten it till it's "good and snug", is that like 60 or 70 ft/lbs (thereabouts) ?

8
Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Re: Trying to I.D. my Rear axle
« on: November 21, 2019, 08:34:49 PM »
Yes the spindle bearings. Wow, you ran through the whole procedure, thanks for the effort! I will make sure not to overtighten it. Talk to you again. Patrick

9
Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Re: Trying to I.D. my Rear axle
« on: November 21, 2019, 07:32:59 PM »
Oldtime -  Great! Thanks again. I read about different axle nuts torque values, so what torque range do you recommend ?

10
Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Re: Trying to I.D. my Rear axle
« on: November 21, 2019, 10:39:05 AM »
  In as much as the last pic I posted shows the exploded view of a Full-floating Rear axle, it does show 2 wheel bearings/wheel, and I'm not sure if I in fact have an inner wheel bearing ?? Other than that it seems to pretty much  look like mine (I'm referring to the outward projecting hub and how the drum brake cover-hub is tightened up against the wheel bearing via 2 axle nuts with a hard washer against the bearing, and a bendable washer to lock the outer axle nut).

11
Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Trying to I.D. my Rear axle
« on: November 21, 2019, 10:20:19 AM »
Hello All !
                   This is for my 1950's Mit-Willys, which (for those not familiar with it) is essentially the first country (Japan) after WW2 that Willys gave a license to produce it's tall hood jeep. So not surprisingly, there are a mix of Willys parts here.
                    Ok, I checked online to try to identify my Rear axle, and ended up somewhat confused. Firstly, I read a bit about differences between Full-floating & Semi-floating axles. I quote: "A full -floating axle carries the vehicle's weight on the axle casing, not the halfshafts". Which is good for me as I did break an axle once and easily replaced it. So do I in fact have a Full-floating Rear axle ? Oh, I have 10 splines on my right side (shorter axle shaft). I'm not sure if I even have an inner wheel bearing by the way? so can anyone tell from the pic with the drum brake off ? Now my brakes seem to look like the brakes of a CJ2A/CJ3A, and i read that earlier CJ2A's had a Dana 41 Full-floating Rear axle and later ones with a Semi-floating  Rear axle.
                      Pictures online are sometimes somewhat confusing for me. So finally, do I have a Dana 41 axle ? If not, what could it be ? All replies are of course appreciated, thank you ! Patrick
                       
                 

                   

 

12
All the  stuff I'm learning from you guys is most definitely helping me out ! Yes, Oldtime did mention the supposed advantages of four eccentric adjusters. I plan on posting a few more pics about the other areas of the jeep in another thread. I realize there are (relatively) few Mitsu-willys owners out there, except Japan of course. Thanks for the compliment Rus, and "see you around".
 

14
Rambling, Malarky, Rants, Etc... / Re: Veterans Day
« on: November 11, 2019, 09:30:31 PM »
HAPPY Veterans day Rus and all other Vets onboard ! Nice to have you guys around.

15
OLDTIME - I stand corrected saying I only had 2 adjusters/wheel, forgetting that the 2 anchor bolts were also adjustable. Thanks again.

RUS CURTIS -  I suppose slotted pistons are just my preference. Maybe it's just because that's what i've dealt with my previous cars. Thanks again for your helpful insights.

EVERYONE- Thanks again for your help. Always a learning experience hearing from more experienced fellas.
                                                                                         Patrick


Pages: [1] 2 3