Posted by: scoutpilot
« on: April 07, 2026, 01:01:28 PM »I responded to your message.
Welcome to our new forum software.
We are now using SMF instead of YaBB.
I received the pump.
Typically, if the choke is open, there's minimal chance of flooding. Perhaps running lean. The choke doesn't restrict or increase the fuel but does restrict the air flow (which is why it's up on the top) to allow for a temporary rich mix to help with starting. If stuck closed, then there's a remote possibility to flood but more likely a rich rough idle. As I understand it, there's no effect on fuel flow, just air intake. There is more likely a possibility to flood if you keep pumping the pedal with your foot as that pumps raw gas into the intake manifold.
Not an expert on the carbs but you may free up the choke with penetrant or starter fluid. Rick will know better.
More importantly, are you going to paint the lawnmower tank to match your jeep and use it for a secondary tank on long runs?
Check the dipstick to see if the oil looks thinner or has a gas smell.
A typical problem when a diaphragm on these mechanical pumps fails is for the gas to be pumped into the oil pan.
If so, you'll need a new diaphragm and an oil change.
that oil had 5 mins of idling on it ...Best is with zero fuel in it from the tank to the carb. Second best is full of fuel. What humidity levels will it encounter?
Do you know how many mistakes I made years ago? I still make mistakes. Fortunately, like you, I learned to ask questions and read Jeep books. There's no such thing as a dumb question!
Storage protocol depends on the conditions the vehicle will be in while in storage.
Oil smells of gas—no gas in the glass filter. Unless you've dumped a pint of gas down the carb's throat in short order, I would suspect a bad fuel diaphragm. It sat for six months? I know you wrote that you run the carb to dry. You run it until the tank is empty? If so, that's a good way to let trash in the tank collect in the plastic filter, and get to the pump and mess with the valves. When was the last time you changed out the plastic filter?
As an aside, the worm-gear clamps are not good for rubber to straight-cut steel. After six months, dried out, those connections may be leaking air into the system. I recommend fuel injection clamps.
And yes, if you've verified gas in the oil, change the oil and filter immediately. Consider rebuilding the pump, also.
it sat November threw march. ok i didn't know that. ( my tank is new and very clean ) i changed the paper filter every year. in the spring as a part of maintenance. ok i will change the clamps . ok great. i thought i was doing ok.Looking forward to the photos. I am, but patience is required. Five weeks minimum lead time.
Pictures of the pump and fuel supply lines in the engine bay would help.