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Topic Summary

Posted by: Chuck W.
« on: June 29, 2022, 10:13:57 PM »

One more follow-up to the gauge saga. I connected the NOS temp gauge to the sender and found that it pegged out on the hot side before the engine was at normal operating temperature. After a lot of experimenting with a variable resister, I found that by adding a 24 ohm resister to the sending unit wire, my gauge now shows the gauge at the 1/2 way mark when the engine is at 178 degrees. Engine has a 180 degree thermostat.
So I now have a working gas and water temp gauge in the original factory gauge cluster. Next test, how long will it stay working?

I have not removed the aftermarket manual gauge yet. Although it's not hooked up, I think I will leave it for now until i am sure that the electric gauge stays working.
Posted by: Chuck W.
« on: April 07, 2021, 04:15:53 PM »

Just as a follow-up, gas gauge is working now.  I need to drain the coolant and install the electrical sending unit for the temperature gauge, but I'm pretty sure it will work OK, too.



Posted by: Chuck W.
« on: February 27, 2021, 09:38:40 PM »

I am wondering how much the chiropractor bill is going to be.....when I put the cluster in the first time, the three shifters, the heater and the passenger seat hinges were not in yet!
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: February 27, 2021, 09:19:10 PM »

Dang!  It looks good!  Fingers are crossed hoping it works as good as it looks!

(May want to carry that cushion with you to take naps on long drives!!)
Posted by: Chuck W.
« on: February 27, 2021, 09:08:46 PM »

got the bezel back on, remembered to clean the INSIDE of the glass this time!


and got the cluster back in the dash, wires and cables tomorrow. That's it for today, I am sore from trying to get twisted up under the dash! At least it looks correct now.
Posted by: Chuck W.
« on: February 27, 2021, 03:36:08 PM »

Small setback; went to crank the jeep the other day and the battery was low. Charged the battery and checked the voltage, 12.5. Started the engine and checked the voltage at the battery again, 12.5. So, looks like the generator is not charging. I pulled the generator and the voltage regulator and took them to Southern Armature for rebuilding and testing.

While the battery was out, I decided to tackle the gauges again. I removed the cluster and began swapping out the incorrect aftermarket gauges. So far, so good!
Posted by: Chuck W.
« on: February 13, 2021, 06:56:10 PM »

In my quest to have operating gauges in my 1964 CJ3B, I think I have found an answer. I found a vendor on e-bay who has NOS Stewart-Warner Temperature gauges. I also found a new fuel gauge at Walck's. This gauge fits a 6 volt Jeep truck/wagon and does not have the internal mechanical voltage regulator. The gauge face is identical to the CJ3B gauge, but the two studs on the back are vertical instead of horizontal, so the case will need some work.


I bought two 12-to-6 volt solid state voltage regulators that are specifically designed to be used on older gauges.


So at this point, with everything wired up on the bench and connected to a battery, the gauges and sending units seem to be working. The fuel sender seems to be a bit sticky, so I may order another one.

Now I need to pull the gauge cluster out of the jeep and swap the speedometer head, glass and bezel into my modified housing and see if it will work. At best, I'll have a working temperature and fuel gauge. At worst, I will have the incorrect Crown gauges out of my cluster.
Posted by: Chuck W.
« on: November 29, 2020, 03:34:26 PM »

Well, I found a New Old Stock Stewart-Warner 424583 water temp gauge. I'm going to use an IC7806 to drop the voltage to 6 volts and feed the gauge directly. We shall see!
At this point, I am not going to worry about the fuel gauge, although I may put my old gauge back in the cluster so at least it will look correct.
Posted by: Chuck W.
« on: November 28, 2020, 07:59:59 PM »

I don't think I want to cut any new holes in the dash! It took a while to repair the two 2" gauge holes that the previous owner cut. I'm trying to keep this one as stock as possible.
Posted by: SteveKfl
« on: November 28, 2020, 03:02:32 PM »

Funny you should ask about the hanging guage.  I was thinking the former cane handle e-brake locaation would make an interesting location for it and not hanging down by your legs.
Posted by: Chuck W.
« on: November 28, 2020, 11:56:20 AM »

Quote
In the pics provided, you can see the Temp original reads from left to right H-C, while the installed gauge is the opposite.  The installed Fuel gauge has more hash marks on it as well, from the original.
 
That's the first thing I didn't like about the aftermarket gauges, (besides the fact that they didn't work!) they are both backwards!  I'm not as worried about the fuel gauge, I can always use a stick, but I have to have a water temp gauge. I wish I could find a pure mechanical (capillary tube type) water temp gauge that would fit the cluster. I'm going to make some calls next week to some of the repair/conversion shops and see what they say. Should be interesting.
Do you think the 1-1/2" auxiliary water temp gauge I mounted below the dash distracts from the gauge cluster? I'm not happy with it but it looks better that the 2" gauges and I guess that's the way it will be for now.

BTW, the replacement gauges I bought are not Crown, but Omix-ADA.....still poor quality.
Posted by: SteveKfl
« on: November 28, 2020, 08:39:25 AM »

I agree, and it is the same for my 62 DJ3A.  I was referring to the referenced article and some other comments about cluster speedos in various vehicles.  They are not all the same but at first glance would seem so.  It all depends on how "model accurate" you're trying to be, and what is still available.  In the pics provided, you can see the Temp original reads from left to right H-C, while the installed gauge is the opposite.  The installed Fuel gauge has more hash marks on it as well, from the original.
 
Since both gauges are mechanical, it seems like a big expense to convert to electronic which might be more fragile, and not one could see the conversion if same faces are retained.  Sometimes "less is more".  I have LED readout gauges added to one of my trucks and they are giving me troubles with readouts and accuracy.  A resistor or a ground problem are much easier to troubleshoot.  Just thinking out loud from my LED experience.  I added Autometer "Vinntage style" gauges to my project. to resemble "old school" look.
Posted by: Chuck W.
« on: November 27, 2020, 08:43:15 PM »

Those gauges look really nice, Rus!
Steve, the only multi-gauge cluster that I have ever seen on the late CJ3B is this style:

You can see the 1-1/2" diameter water temp gauge that I installed below the dash as a temporary measure, but still hoping to get the gauges in the cluster to function correctly.
I have the original water temp and fuel gauge that I removed from my cluster, and I plan to contact one of the gauge restorers and see if they can be converted to electronic and keep the original faces.


Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: November 26, 2020, 10:09:18 PM »

Quote from: Chuck W. on November 26, 2020, 12:37:48 PM
I assume you have individual gauges? .... Who did your gauges?

Yes, mine are individual.

I sent mine into Williamson's. 

https://williamsons.com/

When you look through their gallery, you'll see they've done work on panels with multiple gauges so a cluster may be possible.

Mine (as posted on the old site):



They even reset my odometer to zero!
Posted by: SteveKfl
« on: November 26, 2020, 02:16:08 PM »

As one compares speedo clusters, keep in mind that not all of them are the same diameter, and some reverse the fuel/temp gauge locations.  Many years ago I was all excited about being able to get one of the KS fancy style speedo cluster, but the diameter was not the same, smaller if I remember right???