Well dont go out there with your torque wrench and start trying to put 105 ft. lb. on it. Im not saying you would do that but somebody might. You understand what I’m saying?Yep, I did turn it a bit more. The pitman arm ball moves just a tad now in that rear socket. When the wife is home I ll have her work the wheel, it looks like I have play at the bell crank area. So I ll try an pin that down.
BW
Firm: When you are turning it with, say, 15 ft lb. and it suddenly stops, and you get the feeling that 90 ft. lb. more will not move it any further. Like where you have it set now. Then back it off.
BW
....define firm......to me firm maybe over tighten it by what some one else thinks is firm. i didn't think it would hurt to ask what others had done......having a live person can be way better.
That is what I call a legitimate question. It's not simple defining something you "feel" vs. what can be read on a dial....
At the beginning of the SM, there's a passage that states the information is intended for those familiar with servicing. So, yeah, some needed information is missing but now we have the internet.
My philosophy is to ask away. It really can't hurt.
To me, firm in this case, is (if I could get a large screw driver on it) tight with both hands and a few choice words. Been there done that. However, if you use the correct tool:
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-J5446A-2-Inch-16-Inch/dp/B002FCP4DO
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/drag-link-tool_topic20409.html
Firm becomes contact with maybe less than a 1/4 turn (maybe just snug). What I get out of that is you snug it down to ensure everything is seated and then back out to allow the springs to do their job. I think that if you back out too much to where the parts are loose is too far. Firm = just a little bit of spring compression.
Others with more experience could evaluate this and maybe expand on the technique they use.
....define firm......to me firm maybe over tighten it by what some one else thinks is firm. i didn't think it would hurt to ask what others had done......having a live person can be way better.
I am going through same thing. Rebuilt box and although I am just getting used to it, there is a noticeable dead spot as well as I can turn the wheel a bit further but tires don't turn any more. How does one adjust the steering stops I keep reading about? I did a search but can't seem to find it.
My answer to the last four posts: READ YOUR SERVICE MANUAL! You all do have Service Manuals, right?
BW
And yes, “tight” on the drag link end adjustments is too tight. There is a spring in each end, and if you tighten the plug too tight then the spring becomes a solid spacer. The purpose of the springs is to absorb road shock, but it appears to me that they also allow your flat pitman arm and bellcrank balls to turn.
BW
How does one adjust the steering stops I keep reading about? I did a search but can't seem to find it.
I am going through same thing. Rebuilt box and although I am just getting used to it, there is a noticeable dead spot as well as I can turn the wheel a bit further but tires don't turn any more. How does one adjust the steering stops I keep reading about? I did a search but can't seem to find it.
Where the movement stops, that’s where your worn part(s) is. Sounds to me like the drag link and/or the ball on the bellcrank.
I don’t believe you could ever achieve zero play, nor do I think you would want to. Youve got to have some clearance in a few places for lubrication. One of the problems I had a lot when I was a front-end/alinement tech was DIY’ers over tightening the pitman shaft end play. Made ‘em wander like crazy, especially those with power steering.
BW
