steering slop/ dead space in the wheel

[tow hook]

over the last few weeks i've redone my steering box. ( i've had about 1/4 wheel worth of play / dead space in the steering wheel.)  the steering shaft has no up and down play via the right shims.  bushings are brand new, and reamed bushings with a 7/8" hand reamer.
 i now have that dead spot down to about 4" as i work the wheel left to right  i see the sector shaft turn the pit man arm, an the drag link move uo to the bell crank, but not the tires or the bell crank. ( the fender is off ) the bell crank is tight, and grease was reapplied too all grease points. could the drag link we worn or in need of adjustment so soon ?

so why the dead spot ? i was hoping for mush better then this . any thoughts

 all of these parts are   (new ) one summer old, with just few miles on them: the sector shaft, drag link to the bell crank, pit man arm . all the tie rod ends are new as well an tie rods.( bell crank is org.) it is tight,  needed seals and hard ware that were done last summer.

 thanks

[Rus Curtis]

I think you could have wear on another component.  Chasing that slop all the way out to the wheels covers a lot of ground. 

I had wear in everything but didn't realize it at first.  Eventually, I rebuilt everything that was loose or worn.

Currently, I also have about 4" of play in the steering wheel.  It is tighter than it used to be.  I don't believe our type of steering would compare well with modern systems.

It would be interesting to hear if others are getting some play or if they got all of it out.   

[Bruce_W]

Where the movement stops, that’s where your worn part(s) is. Sounds to me like the drag link and/or the ball on the bellcrank.
  I don’t believe you could ever achieve zero play, nor do I think you would want to. Youve got to have some clearance in a few places for lubrication. One of the problems I had a lot when I was a front-end/alinement tech was DIY’ers over tightening the pitman shaft end play. Made ‘em wander like crazy, especially those with power steering.
BW

[Shark49]

I am going through same thing.  Rebuilt box and although I am just getting used to it, there is a noticeable dead spot as well as I can turn the wheel a bit further but tires don't turn any more.  How does one adjust the steering stops I keep reading about?  I did a search but can't seem to find it.

[tow hook]

I think you could have wear on another component.  Chasing that slop all the way out to the wheels covers a lot of ground. 

I had wear in everything but didn't realize it at first.  Eventually, I rebuilt everything that was loose or worn.

Currently, I also have about 4" of play in the steering wheel.  It is tighter than it used to be.  I don't believe our type of steering would compare well with modern systems.

It would be interesting to hear if others are getting some play or if they got all of it out.

i have it narrowed down to that drag link between the pit man arm, and the bell crank. i did tighten up the ends of the drag link. in the front i got 1/2 a turn, and in the rear i got 1 turn. it's al lot better. my play is down to 4" or less now.

last fall, i was talking to a fella who had just redone his whole steering, he had less then a inch of play in the steering wheel so that's what i aimed for.  as for the ross style vs any other system the ross is from the 40s, so any thing should be better.

[tow hook]

Where the movement stops, that’s where your worn part(s) is. Sounds to me like the drag link and/or the ball on the bellcrank.
  I don’t believe you could ever achieve zero play, nor do I think you would want to. Youve got to have some clearance in a few places for lubrication. One of the problems I had a lot when I was a front-end/alinement tech was DIY’ers over tightening the pitman shaft end play. Made ‘em wander like crazy, especially those with power steering.
BW

 how tight is to tight on the drag link ends ?

[tow hook]

I am going through same thing.  Rebuilt box and although I am just getting used to it, there is a noticeable dead spot as well as I can turn the wheel a bit further but tires don't turn any more.  How does one adjust the steering stops I keep reading about?  I did a search but can't seem to find it.

how tight is your tension screw/ bolt on the sector shaft? i put mine till it was tight, an backed it off 1/2 turn, maybe a hair more. that seems to be the spec that is often used..... for that bolt/ screw

[Marla.the.V35]

How does one adjust the steering stops I keep reading about?  I did a search but can't seem to find it.

The steering stops are actually on the front axles, near the knuckles, on the rear of the tube. There's a bolt there that can be tightened/loosened with a second nut you tighten down once you're "set". I unfortunately, don't have a photo handy.

To set mine, I set them in far enough that a full lock turn didn't impact them. I then used a wrench to pull them out so they just kissed the knuckle. I turned the wheel the other way, then backed them out just a bit further. In my mind, the knuckles impact the steering stop before the box has to take on that load. Then I tightened the nut down that prevents them from backing out further.

HTH!

[Bruce_W]

  My answer to the last four posts: READ YOUR SERVICE MANUAL! You all do have Service Manuals, right?
BW

[Rus Curtis]

Steering Gear Adjustment:  Para O-3.  Even though it states to adjust straight ahead, it also states to turn to both ends and check. My assumption is this is written for new parts.  50+ years of driving, episodes of death wobble, a PO adding grease as lubricant and of course visible wear on the tapered pins could still create binding.  I had it.  I adjusted to remove the slop and the steering wheel literally locked at the end of a full turn.  I backed the screw out until no more binding.  New parts fixed that.  Correct lube should prolong premature wear.

Turning Angle:  Para O-14A.  The angle is determined by the type of axle joint.  Fig 273, shows the turning angle stop screw location.

Also, with nothing connected, ensure you have the mid-position before connecting the steering gear arm or the rest of the linkage.  Para O-6.  This will ensure you can turn fully left and right.

[Bruce_W]

  And yes, “tight” on the drag link end adjustments is too tight. There is a spring in each end, and if you tighten the plug too tight then the spring becomes a solid spacer. The purpose of the springs is to absorb road shock, but it appears to me that they also allow your flat pitman arm and bellcrank balls to turn.
BW

[tow hook]

  And yes, “tight” on the drag link end adjustments is too tight. There is a spring in each end, and if you tighten the plug too tight then the spring becomes a solid spacer. The purpose of the springs is to absorb road shock, but it appears to me that they also allow your flat pitman arm and bellcrank balls to turn.
BW

thanks i agree, i could have gone tighter , but opted not to to.( i'm sure the new parts broke in a tad? ) i do have steering stabilizer/ shock on there as well to help with steering, and road feed back. as for now i'll live with the 4" of slop/ end play that i have in the wheel. i had 31 x 10.5 tires for rollers, now that i have my 7.50 -16 i 'm thinking it may be a tad easier to steer. i'm hoping for rain on sun  so i can get that box wrapped up, and a test drive next week weather permitting

[tow hook]

  My answer to the last four posts: READ YOUR SERVICE MANUAL! You all do have Service Manuals, right?
BW

yes i do. page 217 section O-7 steering connection rod.

"screw in end plug firmly against the ball, than back off one turn and lock with with a new cotter pin "  define firm ?

90 foot pounds is 90 foot pounds, we can all measure that the same way it's a spec with a wrench, to me firm maybe over tighten it by what some one else thinks is firm. i didn't think it would hurt to ask what others had done. i have never had a flatty, and have never done this. i book is great, having a live person can be way better.

 i hope you can understand, were i come from. the help here has been super

[tow hook]

I am going through same thing.  Rebuilt box and although I am just getting used to it, there is a noticeable dead spot as well as I can turn the wheel a bit further but tires don't turn any more.  How does one adjust the steering stops I keep reading about?  I did a search but can't seem to find it.

are you happy with your steering after you re did your box ?  when my tires stop going left and right, so does my box

[Rus Curtis]

....define firm......to me firm maybe over tighten it by what some one else thinks is firm. i didn't think it would hurt to ask what others had done......having a live person can be way better.

That is what I call a legitimate question.  It's not simple defining something you "feel"  vs. what can be read on a dial....

At the beginning of the SM, there's a passage that states the information is intended for those familiar with servicing.  So, yeah, some needed information is missing but now we have the internet.

My philosophy is to ask away.  It really can't hurt.


To me, firm in this case, is (if I could get a large screw driver on it) tight with both hands and a few choice words.  Been there done that.  However, if you use the correct tool:

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-J5446A-2-Inch-16-Inch/dp/B002FCP4DO
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/drag-link-tool_topic20409.html

Firm becomes contact with maybe less than a 1/4 turn (maybe just snug).  What I get out of that is you snug it down to ensure everything is seated and then back out to allow the springs to do their job.  I think that if you back out too much to where the parts are loose is too far.  Firm = just a little bit of spring compression.

Others with more experience could evaluate this and maybe expand on the technique they use.