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Topic Summary

Posted by: athawk11
« on: June 11, 2020, 11:09:59 PM »

I believe Rommel is doing work with electric vehicles now. 

Here is an interesting thread from the 2A Page that gave many great hope regarding reproduction tubs.  Rommel moved on.  The improvements stopped, then came the era of regression. I believe we are still in that era.

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/mdjuan-tubs_topic27368_page1.html
Posted by: zhandyside
« on: June 11, 2020, 10:11:00 PM »

Quote from: aboyandhisdog on June 11, 2020, 09:28:58 PM
My 2 cents...since you are venturing forth to get more room at the firewall, if you have a choice, give yourself as much room as is possible for getting to those top bell housing bolts that I mentioned previously.  As long as you aren't compromising some other fitment, you will appreciate the extra room when you have to R&R your engine.

We will definitely keep that in mind! Although I'm hoping the engine gets to stay in frame for a while before it has to come out.
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: June 11, 2020, 09:28:58 PM »

My 2 cents...since you are venturing forth to get more room at the firewall, if you have a choice, give yourself as much room as is possible for getting to those top bell housing bolts that I mentioned previously.  As long as you aren't compromising some other fitment, you will appreciate the extra room when you have to R&R your engine.
Posted by: zhandyside
« on: June 11, 2020, 09:03:50 PM »

Quote from: SteveKfl on June 11, 2020, 06:28:52 PM
I thought someone said KW used MD Juan tubs.  Maybe these guys are worth consideration and/or may help you with specs???
https://www.willysoverland.com/repli-tubs

The Willys Overland repli-tubs are just reworked MD Juan tubs. Basically the upcharge is for the reworking they do. Although I've heard those aren't always perfect either.

I wish I could have found a solid original tub for our 3A but that is easier said than done in the rust belt. It looks like the firewall issue should be a relatively minor fix. Still less work than repairing our mangled rotted out 2A tub.
Posted by: SteveKfl
« on: June 11, 2020, 06:28:52 PM »

I thought someone said KW used MD Juan tubs.  Maybe these guys are worth consideration and/or may help you with specs???
https://www.willysoverland.com/repli-tubs
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: June 11, 2020, 05:30:19 PM »

I don't know what brand tub Kaiser Willys is selling but they seem to be quite confident about the fit of their tubs and they say they are officially "Mopar Approved".  Not sure that is worth much, but it's something!  But they do say only some minor drilling is required. 

I didn't know that Rommel Juan left the company.  I always thought it was a good move on his part when he reached out to the 3A page for input.  It seemed like he really cared about putting out a good product.  He probably works for Raynor Garage Door in Denver now! ;) ;) ;D ;D
Posted by: athawk11
« on: June 11, 2020, 03:18:11 PM »

I think this is what we've all grown to expect from MD Juan.  The Willys Forums are littered with threads talking about the poor workmanship and the numerous modifications required to make the tub work.  This is why I've always fixed the original tubs.  There was a time of great hope in 2013 when Rommel Juan was in a leadership role at MD Juan.  Many strides were made to improve the products.  Then he left...and all efforts to improve the products left with him.

The problem with sending the tub back is that there is a high probability that the next tub will have the same issues. It's a no win situation.  This is the problem we face when the consumer has only one choice from which to purchase a product.  MD Juan seems content to offer sub par products.  And why not...they've cornered the market.   
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: June 10, 2020, 10:26:36 PM »

I think I'd be calling the place that sold it to me and give them one of two options:  1) complete refund including shipping, or 2) Come get this tub and bring me one that fits. 

This is just wrong.  Good luck!
Posted by: zhandyside
« on: June 10, 2020, 09:20:54 PM »

Well I did some measurements on the beat up 2A tub that came with the Jeep to compare. I think I have found the issue! It appears that the floorboard is too long at the trans tunnel area. The new tub is 1-3/8" longer in that area. It can also be seen at the dash brace. The dash brace is 1/2" longer on the new tub.

I think I can cut the spot welds and the seam and take 1" to 1.25" out of the floor and move the firewall back to gain the proper clearance. If I move the body back too much further I'll have more issues with the hat channels in the front and at the rear floor.
Posted by: locomotive2111
« on: June 10, 2020, 07:40:03 PM »

I am not  sure what clearance is or should be but make darn sure the accelerator linkage is properly aligned on the back of the block .If it is not installed pointing in the right direction you can not hook up the rod to the carburetor and accelerator pedal and is a major pain to change without moving the engine or the body.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: June 10, 2020, 07:04:44 PM »

I measured 3 different Jeeps and got 3 different measurements.  I measured just below the head...straight back to the firewall.  1", 1-1/4", and 1-3/8".

My next measurement is not scientific.  I reached down with my finger and estimated the distance between the linkage and the firewall...just before the firewall ""opens up" to allow for more bell housing clearance.

CJ3A--My 1" reading from above is matched with 1/8" clearance between the linkage and the firewall.
CJ2A--My 1-1/4" reading from above is matched with 3/8" clearance between the linkage and the firewall.
CJ3A--My 1-3/8" reading from above is matched with 1/2" clearance between the linkage and the firewall.

The only Jeep where the tub has never been removed is the CJ2A.

What all this means, I can't really say.  I can suggest that the CJ2A measurement is more likely to be the original target, but you can still make it work with just 1" between the engine and the firewall.  If you currently have 3/4", I would try shifting the tub an additional 1/4" to the rear and see if you can get all the attaching points to work -vs- cutting the firewall.  If the overhang at the rear bothers you, you could remove the bumper and add some spacers.  I don't believe you'll have too much to worry about with other items that penetrate the tub ( gear shifters, brake/clutch pedals, etc. )
Posted by: zhandyside
« on: June 09, 2020, 07:59:48 PM »

The rear of the tub is about a 1/4" proud of the rear cross member. The tub is currently only bolted down at the rear 4 bolts with 1/8" thick pads and at the toe board gussets with 3/16" pads. The other mounting holes haven't been drilled yet, but more or less line up with the appropriate hat channels.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: June 09, 2020, 07:14:39 PM »

Does the tub rear face sit flush with the outer face of the rear bumper/crossmember?  Are all the tub mounting bolts in frame holes, including the rubber mount pads? 

Just asking to establish a starting point for troubleshooting.
Posted by: zhandyside
« on: June 09, 2020, 02:36:07 PM »

I don't think we even have have that much clearance. We have maybe 3/4" from the block t the firewall just below the head.

And from all the post I've read, we did have the bracket mounted properly.

 I recall seeing a post on the CJ2A page about someone having a similar issue with a newer MD Juan body. I measured the CJ2A tub that was on our Jeep when we bought it and it appears the indent in the center of the firewall is roughly the same depth. It just seems like the firewall may be mounted too far forward in general or the tub is slightly longer than it's supposed to be.
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: June 09, 2020, 01:13:38 PM »

I just measured mine.  I have 1.5" measured just below the head - horizontal from the block to the vertical part of the firewall. 

Then measuring just below the accel. linkage bracket horizontal from the block to the curving part of the firewall I have 2.5". 

Now, I will add that I may have a tad more clearance than is typical because I know that where some guys are unable to reach the two top bell housing bolts, I can get to mine without too much trouble - not easy, but doable.

I'll just throw this out there for the heck of it...are you certain that the accel. bracket and linkage arm are all in the correct orientation?  The angled edge of the BRACKET should be mounted up, and the flat section of the LEVER is mounted in the down position connecting to the pedal while the round section mounts up and goes to the carb. linkage.  Of course, you would be the first guy to have ever made this mistake! ;) ;D