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Topic Summary

Posted by: Uncle_Vin
« on: May 11, 2017, 11:22:03 AM »

Watch this video:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qil7aY7HWkA&t=1475s
Posted by: specialty
« on: May 11, 2017, 07:55:46 AM »

Who would have ever thought that? I also have the bolts and do not remember if I did that right or not but everything worked smooth so I must have caught. Nice to know though for future reference. Good job John on figuring it out. Now to can move on to your next problem!!!!
Posted by: LKap
« on: May 10, 2017, 09:57:28 PM »

I finally figured it out.  Oilleaker (John?) is totally correct.  Some of us do not have studs, but bolts that attach the kingpin caps.  There are 4 bolts that are a bit longer for attaching the brake guards.  I did not pay attention when setting the preload without the brake guards and must have used the longer bolts.  Carlsjeep- yes the thread holes do go all the way through the knuckles and if you use the longer bolts they will hit the edge of the bearing and cause the damage I experienced. (Reference the pic below!).
Good news - we all learned a valuable lesson.  More good news - I just set the preload with the CORRECT bolts and everything went smoothly.  Bad news - I wasted $80 in trashed bearings  :D
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: May 10, 2017, 07:15:42 PM »

I just replaced the front axle shafts and had both knuckles apart. There is no way the bolts can interface with the bearing. The bearing is on a stub shafr on the cap that bolts to the knuckle.

When you push the cap and bearing into the knuckle it should self align because the cap slides into the knuckle housing. As I remember the bolt holes don't go all the way through the knuckle housing.

To be honest I can't imagine how you damaged your bearings.
Posted by: specialty
« on: May 01, 2017, 07:36:17 PM »

I really can't see how the bolts or studs could damage the bearings. Wouldn't the bearings have to be out of their place to be hit by the bolt? If that's the case it would be difficult to even get the bolt in. But it has been awhile since I did mine so maybe I am forgetting something.
Posted by: Oilleaker1
« on: May 01, 2017, 06:10:37 PM »

Quote
How would the bolts hit the bearing? I checked and there are a couple that are a little longer.� Do I need to test the preload with the guard????
Just measure the depth of the hole, length of the bolt/stud. If you look up inside, the studs/bolts should not protrude deeper than the knuckle threaded holes.  ;)
Posted by: Bob W
« on: April 30, 2017, 09:38:00 PM »

I'd think about what John said. Check the length of the bolts before you ruin another set of bearings.
Posted by: LKap
« on: April 30, 2017, 08:06:08 PM »

Hawk -  I agree studs or bolts shouldn't make a difference. I have been mulling this over in my head to try and figure out where I messed up.  The most plausible thing I can come up with is that I must have over-tightened one side of the cap forcing the bearing to sit up on the opposite side.  Then when I tightened the other side of the cap down I must have pinched the edge of the bearing.  Sound feasible??  I guess you have to tighten the cap bolts/studs just like you would on the engine head.   I'm gonna try to stop at NAPA tomorrow after work to see if I can get a bearing locally before I reorder from Walks - anyone know the part number?
Posted by: athawk11
« on: April 30, 2017, 09:38:28 AM »

I didn't test preload with the guards.�

I have seen drawings showing bolts and drawings showing studs with nutts. I can't say which is stock on a 3A.� Both of my 49 3As have studs in all locations...top and bottom.� My 2A has all studs on the bottom.� The top has bolts toward to wheel and studs toward the axle.

With Studs, I've never had bearing damage when setting preloads.

Posted by: LKap
« on: April 29, 2017, 10:30:35 PM »

How would the bolts hit the bearing? I checked and there are a couple that are a little longer.  Do I need to test the preload with the guard????
Posted by: Oilleaker1
« on: April 29, 2017, 08:08:11 AM »

You hit it with the cap bolts. There are two that are longer than the others. The long ones hold the guard on top. Easy mistake to make. Oilly
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: April 29, 2017, 12:00:56 AM »

Well, you can try it.

Some of the early jeeps had a one piece steering arm/king pin cap, which is what they might be referring to....


Posted by: LKap
« on: April 28, 2017, 09:30:30 PM »

I was referencing this page - seems legit

http://www.cj-2a.com/techtips/specs/torques.html
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: April 28, 2017, 10:52:49 AM »

That does seem high....the head bolts are only torqued to 60-70 ft lbs..

They are 5/16 aren't they?

There is a table here for standard bolt torque values...lots of others on the net too...

http://www.engineersedge.com/torque_table_sae_ftlbs.htm

Posted by: LKap
« on: April 28, 2017, 06:40:29 AM »

I read over on the 2a page that the kingpins are torqued down to 55-65 foot pounds.  Seems a bit high? Is this correct?