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Topic Summary

Posted by: tomcattoy
« on: August 24, 2013, 11:42:24 AM »

Been awhile, but wanted to report that the jeep is now running good.  Turns out it was the wrong coil.  I ended up taking it to a local shop and they determined that it had a coil requiring an external resistor (which I don't have), so installed a coil with internal resistor and it runs fine.

The gas color issue went away, so it may be that the new filter or fuel tank had some coloration that eventually cleared out.

Now I have a noisy 3rd gear to work on and some chatter in the rear end when making a tight turn....oh well.
Posted by: tomcattoy
« on: June 26, 2013, 11:04:08 PM »

I did not use a spacer at the fuel pump.  I like the idea of the spray bottle with gas...I'll try that this weekend.

The gas I put in is just regular 87 gas, and it is basically clear (white), as can be seen in the photo.  The same gas came out the amber color at the carb connection....very strange.  I will probably drain everything and start again too see if the color change continues.

I will post the results.
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: June 26, 2013, 10:23:43 PM »

Quote
Thanks, Mark and Tim.� The comment about having a strong spray of gas when the gas pedal is pushed has me pretty much convinced it is the carb pump...I don't see any spray.� �

I would add some fresh gas, either after draining the onboard tank or from another tank/source, then I would pump the accelerator until my foot was tired, rest a little, do it again, and see if that doesn't clear out whatever seems to be stuck in there..

If that has no effect, then I would start taking things apart...

Be sure to let us know what you find. I have read several of these hesitation threads or threads about poorly running engines..I'm about to put mine back together and would like to avoid having my own problems.... if possible...
Posted by: Carls_jeep
« on: June 26, 2013, 08:29:00 PM »

Wait a minute, did you say clear gas? Are you using what is called white gas? If so then it should come out of the tank as clear as when you put it in the tank.
Posted by: Matto
« on: June 26, 2013, 06:51:08 PM »

One other thought, did you use a spacer with that glass top single action pump? I believe these pumps don't use them.
Posted by: p3ferris
« on: June 26, 2013, 06:29:01 PM »

Use a spray bottle with gas in it and try to start it and spray it in there to see if it continues to run.  Do it carefully.  That will verify your thought  if it does continue to run while spraying it
Posted by: tomcattoy
« on: June 26, 2013, 03:49:06 PM »

Thanks, Mark and Tim.  The comment about having a strong spray of gas when the gas pedal is pushed has me pretty much convinced it is the carb pump...I don't see any spray.   
Posted by: athawk11
« on: June 26, 2013, 11:31:41 AM »

TomCat,
One other thing to consider.  After learning you replaced your condensor, dist cap etc., you might have 'misplaced' a spark plug cable.  Fire order is 1,3,4,2...and the distributor turns 'counter clockwise'.  I only mention this because for some reason, I'm an idiot and always seem to reinstall the cables in a clockwise rotation.  It doesn't run very good this way :-[.

Tim 
Posted by: macrisel
« on: June 26, 2013, 11:23:51 AM »

Here are a few random thoughts and ideas I picked up along the way when I was having fuel issues:

- run a temporary line from a plastic gas can to the fuel pump.  Remove the fuel filter from the line from the pump to the carb.  Start the engine and see what results you get.  If you still have the problem, you have eliminated the gas tank, fuel line to the pump and the fuel filter and are down to the fuel pump or the carb...

-Silly question, but are you sure you have enough gas in the tank?  There is usually a tube that sticks up 2-3" inside the tank where the fuel line attaches.  This is to prevent "stuff" from the bottom of the tank getting sucked into the fuel line. 

-Don't discount the accel pump in the carb just because it is new.  I rebuilt my carb with new parts and less than a year later, my new accel pump swelled up and would not work.  I ended up putting the old one back in.  When you pump the gas pedal, you should see a strong stream of gas getting shot down the throat of the carb.

- the discolored fuel could be from oil inside the lines or tank from when they were produced.  It is not uncommon for new steel lines to have machine oil left in them from production.  If that is it, it should clear up the more the tank and lines are flushed out and used.

-as stated before, you should check your float level and ensure it is set properly at 3/8" WITHOUT the gasket on.

-check your idle mixture adjustment and make sure it is not screwed all the way in preventing enough fuel from getting into the mix.  If I remember correctly, a good starting point is to screw it all the way in, then back it out 1 1/2 turns.

-blow everything out good and make sure a random bit of trash didn't sneak by the filter stop up a jet.

Good luck!
Posted by: tomcattoy
« on: June 26, 2013, 10:51:25 AM »

It was running, but had a Solex carb, electric fuel pump, and plastic gas tank.  I changed everything back to "original".  The photo showing the gas color shows the clear gas in the measuring cup that I poured into the tank, and the amber color in the mason jar that I pumped out through the fuel filter.  Both seem to smell the same.  I guess I should drain the couple gallons and refill....
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: June 26, 2013, 09:59:04 AM »

Was it running before you replaced the carb, tank and pump?

You might try a different source of clean fuel..that amber fuel is odd...does it have a different odor?

Posted by: tomcattoy
« on: June 26, 2013, 09:37:37 AM »

Thanks for the input.  I have a new condensor, along with points, rotor and cap.  The fuel delivery from the line at the carb is strong, as it filled the mason jar in the photo in just a few turns of the engine.  The color of the fuel in the photo is the clear gas that I put in, and the amber gas that pumped out at the carb (wierd?).  I will take the top off the carb and see what the level of the gas is in the bowl.  When a pull the trottle rod, should there be a steady stream of gas sprayed into the carb throat?  The rubber lines on the fuel filter came that length, so I did not cut them.

When the engine does start, it will fire and then spin without firing, then intermittant fire, then stall.  It sounds like it is running out of gas, but maybe it could be an ignition issue from the distributor? 

Posted by: scoutpilot
« on: June 26, 2013, 06:03:43 AM »

It could be the float setting. It should be 3/8", as measured from the inside face of the bowl cover without the gasket in place. It could be a piece of lint or grit in the needle and seat. It could be an accelerator pump swollen from contact with bad gas. I would check all three.
Posted by: garage gnome
« on: June 26, 2013, 05:49:20 AM »

Check your cap and rotor for corrosion. I had a similar issue on a trail run which I thought was fuel related, but turned out to be that.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: June 25, 2013, 11:50:28 PM »

TomCat,
I can't speak to the amber fuel.� Seems a bit odd.� I got a reproduction tank from Walcks.� I didn't look at the fuel color, but my Willys ran fine with the new tank. Walcks and Kaiser are probably selling the same tanks.

If your fuel delivery is good, then the carb is likely your issue.� If you run the Willys for a bit, then pull the fuel bowl top, is it full of fuel?

If so...

I see rubber fuel lines at your fuel filter.� One possibility is that when you cut them to length, a small piece of rubber ended up in the line.� This may have been pushed into the carb and is slightly blocking one of your jets.

Pull the carb� and the jet covers and blow compressed air through the jets.� This may clear a slight blockage.�

If your fuel bowl is not full, then I would suspect that the blockage is in the fuel filter or fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb.�

My experience with a bad accelerator pump is more of a hesitation issue than a fuel starvation issue.

Just some ideas.�

Let us know what you find.

Good luck.

Tim