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Topic Summary

Posted by: 3aJeeper
« on: May 16, 2013, 09:32:33 PM »

Shaving cream.....that's....just....awesome.

Talk about thinking out of the box....
Posted by: macrisel
« on: May 16, 2013, 10:22:29 AM »

An old school trick I have used in the past to keep shaving out of places is to use............Shaving cream.  Make sure you get the foam shaving cream and not the gel stuff.  Fill the hole up with shaving cream, get your bushing out, tap the threads, ream out the hole or whatever you need to do and then wipe out the shaving cream and metal bits it catches.

If the foam stats to collapse before you are done with the work, just wipe it out and spray more foam in.

Just a tip I picked up from an old engine builder a looong time ago.  I really didn't believe it until I tried it, but it works.  He used it a lot when he would replace a gasket on a V-8 and didn't want the gasket material to drop into the intake, block or cylinder (depending on which gasket he was replacing).  :)
Posted by: 3aJeeper
« on: May 15, 2013, 03:21:41 PM »

F Bill
Thanks - I'll do that if it won't budge.

Do I need to be cautious about leaving any shavings inside the block? I really don't want to have to take the head off if I can avoid it.� :-/

Maybe plug it with a cloth or something? Maybe flushing it out real good?
Posted by: F Bill
« on: May 15, 2013, 02:53:48 PM »

if you cannot get it to turn, take a grinder to the exposed surface of it and sand it down level with the block in two spots, to weaken it. This will also prove to you that it is a separate part...(wire brushing would do the same thing if there is any question of it being a bushing and not just a smaller hole in the head than normal ) Then take a dull chisel and hit it inward to collapse it on itself . You may need to chase the threads in the head with a tap when you are done, or you might get lucky and just need to use a wire brush on them. 
Posted by: 3aJeeper
« on: May 15, 2013, 02:11:36 PM »

Quote
I thought it looked like you had a brass bushing in there..

Probably will need to drive an ezy out into it to remove it... or a large hex bit or even a larger torx bit if you have one might work. It will be damaged and not reusable.

Finally got an ez out (and some time) to back this bushing out. However, it's not coming easily. Just wondering just how hard do I torque on it? I know that's subjective, but am I in danger of doing something really bad like cracking the block? Although I bet the brass gives long before the block....

Not intending to use anything more than hand power, but if using the air gun is deemed safe, then I'm all in.
Posted by: BMIC
« on: May 03, 2013, 07:49:46 AM »

JB this is my running chassis using this wire diagram. Easy basic setup that is giving me all the info I need.



Posted by: 3aJeeper
« on: May 03, 2013, 07:02:59 AM »

Quote
� The mechanical oil pressure gauge does not require a sending unit. Here's a link to a replacement gauge at Walcks.http://walcks4wd.com/oil-gauge-late-cj2a-cj3a-cj3b.html
This runs from the gauge thru the firewall.http://walcks4wd.com/oil-gauge-hard-line-mb-gpw-cj2.html
This runs fromte hardline to the block. http://walcks4wd.com/oil-flex-line-gauge.html
Matt

Thanks Matto!
Even I can unscrew the existing oil pressure sending unit and replace with the flex hose at the block. That's the kinda fix I like! ;)

I'll take a look at the bushings too. The temp gauge setup I have has a nut that looks to be the same size as the bushing that's in the engine now. I bet if I take that out, what I got will fit right in.
Posted by: Matto
« on: May 02, 2013, 10:38:09 PM »

I think F Bills right in that someone put a bushing in the head to adapt an electric sending unit. once you remove that bushing, you will need to install one of these bushings to accept the temp probe.
http://walcks4wd.com/temperature-gauge-bushing-at-h.html
   The mechanical oil pressure gage does not require a sending unit. Here's a link to a replacement gauge at Walcks.http://walcks4wd.com/oil-gauge-late-cj2a-cj3a-cj3b.html
This runs from the gauge thru the firewall.http://walcks4wd.com/oil-gauge-hard-line-mb-gpw-cj2.html
This runs fromte hardline to the block. http://walcks4wd.com/oil-flex-line-gauge.html
Matt
Posted by: 3aJeeper
« on: May 02, 2013, 10:02:22 PM »

Quote
Ditch the electric temp and oil pressure stuff. The mechanical is better for these old rigs.
Agreed. I have a mechanical temp gauge (and thx to F ZBill - a solution), but unable to find mechanical oil pressure. Is there such a thing? Do you have a line on where to get one? Less electrical wiring = better for me. �;)
Posted by: F Bill
« on: May 02, 2013, 09:46:47 PM »

I thought it looked like you had a brass bushing in there..

Probably will need to drive an ezy out into it to remove it... or a large hex bit or even a larger torx bit if you have one might work. It will be damaged and not reusable.
Posted by: 3aJeeper
« on: May 02, 2013, 09:12:02 PM »

Matto - looks like you and I were posting at the same time. Your pic is spot on to what I have. On my replacement gauge however, the nut is larger than the threaded hole. Maybe they sent me the wrong one?? I was careful to order one for the F Head...
In this pic the red arrow is pointing to a brass part where the old sending unit screws in. Is this suppose to be removed? This is what is blocking the replacement unit. It won't thread into that brass(??) part, but looks to be the same size. I does not come out when I remove the other piece. Is this suppose to come out too?



GG - agreed, I would like to use mechanical gauges if possible.

Posted by: garage gnome
« on: May 02, 2013, 09:04:25 PM »

Ditch the electric temp and oil pressure stuff. The mechanical is better for these old rigs.
Posted by: 3aJeeper
« on: May 02, 2013, 09:01:46 PM »

Good ideas F Bill.

Here's what I have: I think this is the oil pressure sending unit. Not sure if I can or how to use this piece. I've seen replacement units, but not sure how to connect the sending unit to the gauge.


This is the temp sending unit (I think). I tried to use a replacement unit (for the Fhead) but the temperature sending unit did not fit in the threaded hole. It was too big. Is this the right spot?


Lastly, here are the gauges in the dash. The chunks in the oil gauge I think are what's left of a gasket maybe? The Temp unit is in a box somewhere....

You can see how I couldn't pass up buying this jeep...it's got less than 3500 miles on it!! :D ;D

Posted by: garage gnome
« on: May 02, 2013, 08:58:07 PM »

I wouldn't bother with hooking up the alternator. You can run a 4 cyl a long time on a good charged battery.
Posted by: Matto
« on: May 02, 2013, 08:57:56 PM »

Here's a picture of How the Temp. sending unit mounts in a 54 F head.