The CJ3A Page CJ3B.info

Post reply

Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days.
Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic.

Note: this post will not display until it's been approved by a moderator.

Name:
Email:
Subject:
Message icon:
Verification:
Type the letters shown in the picture
Listen to the letters / Request another image

Type the letters shown in the picture:
Write the word between words Jeep from this JeepWILLYSJeep?:
How many slot has a GPW grill?  7 - 9 - 11:

shortcuts: hit alt+s to submit/post or alt+p to preview


Topic Summary

Posted by: athawk11
« on: February 22, 2013, 11:08:57 PM »

Quote



Are you worried you might know him?


Very funny Gun!!
 ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Posted by: BMIC
« on: February 22, 2013, 02:47:51 PM »

Very good Guns.... Your a bit sharper today.
Posted by: Gunslinger
« on: February 22, 2013, 01:22:13 PM »



40 years from now when the next owner is trying to replace the exhaust, am I doing him a favor by using Grade 8 bolts and nuts???

Tim[/quote]

Are you worried you might know him?
Posted by: p3ferris
« on: February 20, 2013, 10:20:02 PM »

Actually I was pretty fortunate with my  2A , every bolt, I mean every bolt  that I took out, came out without any problem.  It had not been touched since 53.
Posted by: F Bill
« on: February 20, 2013, 06:40:25 PM »

Just took apart my 10 year old Ford, with plated steel nuts on hardened studs. Had to heat things up with the torch to get it apart after 370,000 miles. I rethreaded and installed new nuts, had the bolts been new as well instead of slightly worn originals I might have used some never seez. �The new nuts were a loose fit so I didn't do it.

Pretty much anything used in that application will eventually rust up and seize up. If it is a nut and bolt it is no big deal to break or torch it off, but a stud is a different matter. Use brass nuts like Nate said on the stud if you can..I would prefer a stud with a brass nut over a bolt threaded in tight, as chances are that bolt WILL break upon removal like yours.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: February 20, 2013, 06:34:26 PM »

Yeah, I figured that.  But with a stronger bolt, will he have a better chance of it staying in one piece till he gets it free?
Posted by: garage gnome
« on: February 20, 2013, 06:12:55 PM »

Rust is rust. It will still stick. Best thing is stainless or brass.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: February 20, 2013, 06:05:33 PM »

I sheared off a bolt at the exhaust pipe to manifold position.  I was able to drill it out and re-tap it.

40 years from now when the next owner is trying to replace the exhaust, am I doing him a favor by using Grade 8 bolts and nuts???

Tim