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Topic Summary

Posted by: calvinhunt
« on: February 13, 2013, 06:39:44 PM »

Quote
Quote
Quote
Hi I'm Rommel Juan from MDJuan.

Here is an MDJuan repro hood installed on an original CJ2a tub.



 i can give you more info if you like. Just let me know what you need :)

Cheers
Rommel
Rommel it might be good to show how th eoriginal hood fits, too.

here you go:
Quote
Rommell,
  Thanks for the response with pics that show that indents are gone.  I purchased my tub, fenders, and hood in 2007.  I should have waited a bit.  Thanks for your ongoing efforts to make a better reproduction part.  Again, thanks for joining our Willys Jeep forums.
Posted by: Jesse
« on: February 13, 2013, 09:56:19 AM »

Just a joke, I'm the one selling an original. (And MN jeeps are always wasted so it is a good find)

-Jesse
Posted by: Rommel_Juan
« on: February 13, 2013, 09:17:54 AM »

Quote
Quote
Hi I'm Rommel Juan from MDJuan.

Here is an MDJuan repro hood installed on an original CJ2a tub.



 i can give you more info if you like. Just let me know what you need :)

Cheers
Rommel
Rommel it might be good to show how th eoriginal hood fits, too.

here you go:





Posted by: Rommel_Juan
« on: February 13, 2013, 03:16:24 AM »

Quote
Hello Rommel,
 ï¿½My post on this thread above states that when I took a straight edge and put it along the upper part of the radius above the embossed WILLYS there was a indentation beginning at the radius and going towards the center of the hood exactly the same on both sides(as though someone had sat on it). �It started at zero at the front to 1/4 inch indentation in the middle and ending up at zero at the back. �So, I had to fill the entire area, several inches long and about 4 inches wide with it being 1/4 inch deep in the middle. �I didn't see it until I sprayed primer before painting. �While the primer was wet, still glossy, it was very evident.

Even in the picture you have supplied here of the new hood on the 2A, it looks to me that if the paint were glossy there would be a visible indentation. �It's hard to tell in the photo. �Would you please place a straight edge on that hood in this photo and take a few more pics from different angles so I can see that there really is no indentation? �

I wish I had pics of the filling process. �But that was a part of my Jeep restoration I was not proud of sod I took no pics.

Thanks for coming on the CJ-3A page and addressing our concerns.

here is a picture of our hood. We have solved that problem by fixing our bending die in 2008.





there are no more indents.

rommel

Posted by: athawk11
« on: February 12, 2013, 08:29:59 PM »

Jesse,

You may be in an area where original Willys hoods are found on every corner. ;)  In Colorado, good original Willys sheet metal is like the elusive hens tooth.  Very rare.  And if in great condition, very very expensive.

Tim
Posted by: Jesse
« on: February 12, 2013, 05:18:52 PM »

I think the classic enterprises stuff is pretty dang good myself, but why not just buy an original?


http://cj3apage.com/forum-yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1358400095

Posted by: duffer
« on: February 12, 2013, 12:26:49 PM »



The cowl radius fit was exactly the same problem I had with a 3B repo hood which I believe was MD Juan. �It is still sitting in the shed, in its shipping box, almost 40 years later. �That was the first and last reproduction steel Willys body parts I have bought. �I ended up just building my own hood from aluminum-something you can sit on without bending it.
Posted by: calvinhunt
« on: February 11, 2013, 12:10:09 AM »

Quote
Hi I'm Rommel Juan from MDJuan.
Here is an MDJuan repro hood installed on an original CJ2a tub.



 i can give you more info if you like. Just let me know what you need :)
Cheers
Rommel
Hello Rommel,
  My post on this thread above states that when I took a straight edge and put it along the upper part of the radius above the embossed WILLYS there was a indentation beginning at the radius and going towards the center of the hood exactly the same on both sides(as though someone had sat on it).  It started at zero at the front to 1/4 inch indentation in the middle and ending up at zero at the back.  So, I had to fill the entire area, several inches long and about 4 inches wide with it being 1/4 inch deep in the middle.  I didn't see it until I sprayed primer before painting.  While the primer was wet, still glossy, it was very evident.

Even in the picture you have supplied here of the new hood on the 2A, it looks to me that if the paint were glossy there would be a visible indentation.  It's hard to tell in the photo.  Would you please place a straight edge on that hood in this photo and take a few more pics from different angles so I can see that there really is no indentation?  

I wish I had pics of the filling process.  But that was a part of my Jeep restoration I was not proud of sod I took no pics.

Thanks for coming on the CJ-3A page and addressing our concerns.
Posted by: F Bill
« on: February 10, 2013, 09:20:26 PM »

Quote
Hi I'm Rommel Juan from MDJuan.

Here is an MDJuan repro hood installed on an original CJ2a tub.



 i can give you more info if you like. Just let me know what you need :)

Cheers
Rommel
Rommel it might be good to show how th eoriginal hood fits, too.
Posted by: F Bill
« on: February 10, 2013, 09:18:59 PM »

Speaking of hoods, Have you seen the heavy duty hood that Classic is selling now? It isn't cheap but it sure looks strong.
Posted by: Macgraham
« on: February 10, 2013, 07:12:57 PM »

What would be considered a good price for a MDJUAN hood. Saw 3 on ebay 2 identical nostamp hoods one was 343.19 the other 542.00. the willys stamped hood was 327.22. They were all omix distributed and probably came from mdjuan. I don't understand the priceing. Why would the stamped hood be cheaper? Maybe old stock with possible fit issues?  Walcks script 457.97.  KW script 399.00.  Ron G503  275.00. Would they all be mdjuan? Pretty easy to make a choice here.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: February 09, 2013, 08:26:50 PM »

Rommel,
Welcome to the 3A page. �The above conversation started off by talking about a 'pucker', or small indentation in the sheet metal just above the 'Willys' stamping. �It seems that when the 'Willys' was stamped, it would distort the hood. �

I am happy to say, I have an MD Juan hood that was purchased about 2 years ago and it has no such 'pucker' above the Willys stamp. �It is smooth all the way through the radius, including the area just above the 'Willys'.

Generally, I am very pleased with the hood. �If I could offer one minor issue, it would be the radius/contour at the hood support. �What you are seeing here is a 1949 3A with the original cowl and the MD Juan hood. �The contour at the back of the hood does not match the cowl as well as I would hope. �I am not the only one that has this issue.

I think that if I bent the hood support channel, just a small amount, just outside the hinge position, this hood would fit perfectly.

Again, I welcome you to this forum. �I appreciate your desire to offer the best reproductions possible. �By the way, I am in the market for a 3A tub. �Any possibility of a discount?? ;)

Tim



Posted by: Rommel_Juan
« on: February 09, 2013, 08:33:44 AM »

Hi I'm Rommel Juan from MDJuan.

Here is an MDJuan repro hood installed on an original CJ2a tub.



 i can give you more info if you like. Just let me know what you need :)

Cheers
Rommel
Posted by: F Bill
« on: January 29, 2013, 06:39:56 PM »

Quote
Went to price a body hammer and one dolly yesterday and they were over 180.00. Just want to get it straight once and then it can age normally from there.

Where are you shopping for your body tools?? Try Dagger tools..they have really nice stuff reasonable. ..Even the HF stuff is halfway useable today.Unfortunately all they stock anymore locally is the door skin replacement set.  Sounds like you talked to the Snap On guy. (I picked up a nice new  Snap On dolly at the Pawn shop today for $30)

I would suggest letting the pro do your hood, learn on something easier.
Posted by: Macgraham
« on: January 29, 2013, 03:43:35 PM »

Went to see a guy here in LHC today. Many of the custom car guys recommended him. He told me to finish removing the bondo and in about a month he would do some shrinking on the hood and tighten it up. He does not recommend additional braceing. He said it would not be expensive but there will be a price up front. Went to price a body hammer and one dolly yesterday and they were over 180.00. Just want to get it straight once and then it can age normally from there.